Just started to hear a deep knock. It is a bit louder now that it's about 10 deg. but I could also hear it when it was 30 deg. F.
Is it possible to pull the oil pan and change out the rod bearings or is this a ridiculous idea?
I have known people who have done this and got another year out of there motor.
I really don't want to pull the car out of storage until all the salt is off the road so I can either try to swap the bearings or ride it out until spring and continue looking for a crate or low millage motor.
The 5.4 has 175,000 on it and runs strong as ever but has the knock. The body and the rest of the truck is in great shape so I have to keep it.
Any suggestions would be great.

 

for some reason I cant think of what their name is. but "they" are made from wax and or soft plastic. pull the oil pan find the offending rod/rods. pull them off the crank remove the bearing install "these" tighten cap/s back on crank to spec then remove once more, then use a caliper to determine what size bearing you need. also check for out of round. take some fine grit emery cloth to the crank to clean it up and will help new bearings stay lubricated until break in. this might get you a little more life out of it. but you should start saving and looking for a replacement. best of luck.

 

shockey your thinking of plastagauge.

z67 check ebay shortblocks, sometimes you can find a used shortblock that's still good for $500-600.

 

Are you sure it's a rod bearing? Loosening bolts on your torque converter/flexplate will sound exactly like a rod knock. I'd check that out first just in case. Best to eliminate all the easy/cheap problems first

 

I am ready to buy a crate motor but was not sure where to find a dependable one.
Sounds like a good idea with the wax or soft plastic to mold and measure the gap. I have to check into that also shocky! I will definitely look into ebay as JimmysotherFORD stated, good info thanks. I did not think of the torque converter/flexplate as fastforward7 thought about. I will need to check on that and in the mean time keep looking for a replacement.
What is involved to check on the torque converter. I am not a mechanic but I am hands on and can use common sense some times.
Thanks a lot for all the good information. If anyone knows of an engine available or a reputable source to get one please let me know.
I would like to get another motor to replace this one and get it rebuilt for the next project.
Thanks again.

 

On the 4R70W there's an inspection panel on the front bottom of the bellhousing. The 4EOD is probably similar. Just two bolts hold it on. Remove that and you'll see the flexplate. There are 4 studs on the toque converter that attach it to the flexplate. Rotate the engine by hand using a socket (18mm I believe) on the crankshaft pulley. Make sure the nut is tight on each stud.

If this does turn out to be the problem you'll probably need to replace your flexplate because the holes in it that the studs pass through will usually have rounded out from being loose.

 

Thanks fastforward7.
I will get on that tomorrow and see if it is the issue.
Hopefully that is it and I can get through winter.