And he says it's out of an '00, definitely PI.

 

Went and looked at the motor today. Pristine condition, very obvious it has low miles. No carbon build up in the intake, oil looks great, not even any white goo under the oil cap, still has tranny attached and it looks absolutely new with no road or oil grime at all. exhaust even looks new. Seller has the title from the insurance company and verified the mileage is just under 10k miles. It did turn over by hand pretty easily but I didn't want to over due it since its been sitting for many years. Luckily it has been in his shop in the back corner and shows no signs of currosion or rust. Talked to the family mechanic and he sais he'll swap it out for $500 and also test the injectors, cop's and mentioned some sort of oil they use to treat the cylinders before turning it over or testing it to avoid damaging the rings if there is any corrosion int he cylinders. (like what was mentioned about the few drops of tranny fluid in the cylinders) He sais something about using tranny fluid to do that can cause some sort of damage to the injectors or O rings or something like that. Along with everything else like charging the a/c. Also the seller is going to guarenty compression so its a go, I bought it. Just have to wait till next week to drop it off. Also going to pick up new motor mounts. Anything else I should do while its out? How about with the transmission fluid or filter or what not.

He also tried selling me the tranny w/ t case, frame, rear end on tires, tank and pump and a ton more spare parts that went to it (I seen boxes of the headlights, nerf bars, dash bezel, etc) basically everything was there but the cab, bed and front suspension for $300, I almost wanted to take it at that price but don't have the room to keep it around for spare parts. Maybe I should grab the tranny since mine has 120k.. duno

 

for that price if the trans is that low of milage id definatly snag it.

 

I think I might. I'm going to end up selling my old motor, what do you think is a fair price considering it has 120k and thought to be bad wrist pin and main bearing. I don't need it for a core charge so I figure sell it for a few bucks to someone who can rebuild it.

 

Hey I noticed today on my moms 00 5.4L (the motor I bought is a 00 5.4L) that the back of the throttle body looks a little different than mine (99) Looks a bit different where the coolant lines enter the throttle body. On mine there seems to be an extra hose that makes it harder to get to the IAC. On my moms 00 access to the IAC is much easier since it doesnt have that line there. Is there a difference in the 99 to 00. As far as I knew they were Identical motors, nothing needed changed over

 

Might be best if you went ahead and swapped intakes. Think they want plastic intake in 00. When I swapped out my 99 to an 03 engine I just swapped intakes. I had to swap all the pulleys and the remote oil filter stuff on to the new engine. the 03 pulleys are smaller. I think the throttle bodys are identical so save that or use it..

 

AAhhh not sure how that slipped by me but now that I look at the 2, hers has the black plastic intake and mine looks aluminum or cast

 

Thinking about doing this swap myself. Family shop would do it for only $500 which included flow testing all the injectors from my motor and new motor to find the best ones, testing cop's, recharging a/c, swapping necessary parts and all that stuff but money is a bit tight with some unexpected bills. Picking up the motor, trans w/transfer case and everything else that comes with it (frame, rear axle w/brakes and tires complete, tank w/ pump, exhaust etc) tomorrow, lots of spare parts I can use in the future or sell.

If I do it myself I'll go ahead and swap intakes on the 2 but what was the reason for swapping pulleys and remote oil filter. Thanks

Oh, someone told me they didnt think a 00 motor would run on my 99 ecu. I know the motor I'm buying doesn't come with one. I don't see enough differences in parts between the 2 as far as sensors and what not to think that it would'nt work.?

 

$500 is a darn good deal. I'd pay them if i were you. In my life I've R&Red probably 10 engines. My F-150 was by FAR the hardest one I've ever done. the only reason I could see you doing it is you think you can do it better. other wise come up with the jack and pay them. i guarantee you you'll regret it if you dont.

 

I'm running an 03 engine in my 99 no issues. You have to switch intakes (gotta remove them anyway to R&R the engine ) and the pulleys on the 03 engine were smaller so I had to swap all my old ones. That engine WILL work. The 03 engine didnt haave the remote filter, 00 might still haveit 00 might also have the right polleys.

 

Why are you r&ring the AC. Unbolt the AC compressor from the engine block and lay it aside. Install new engine and bold it back on. I would also use the metal intake manifold. Less than 10,000k I would just use the new motor's mounts. Give him an extra $10.00 for them if he won't give them to you. Get a good shop manual. Send me a PM with your e-mail and I will try to send you a PDF file of the procedure.

.

 

BUMP.
Been a while since I've posted in this thread. Appreciate the help everyone. Going to let the shop do it. Just don't have room in my garage since I bought the whole chassis of the other truck and its taking up a great deal of space. Plus I don't have the clearance to lift the motor out without dropping the front end on its arms.

I picked up new motor mounts from rock auto( old/new ones were dry cracked and stressed), was looking to pick up a few gaskets, intake, throttle body, egr and valve cover since I have to swap passenger side cover. But can't seem to locate the throttle body gasket, where the elbow meets the intake. Also, is it the whole lower/upper intake plenum that needs to be removed before the removal? or just the throttle body and elbow (elbow listed as "intake manifold spacer"? at rock auto) I'm sure the shop knows but since it's not a "ford" shop I'm trying to bring as much info to them as possible to help smooth things along. Thanks again.

 

The whole intake manifold has to come off.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

 

Thanks for the quick clear up. I just noticed you've been on here since 97... hats off to you old rooster. And to everyone else that does what they do around here, I can name a few outstanding scholars. I can only guess the amount of money you guys have helped just me alone save in the handful of fords I've own. I'm sure it's enough to buy a new truck. I've been on many forums for numerous vehicles from Honda's, Nissan, Toyota.. etc and never get the responses as quick and accurate as I do here.