I can see your details on the right there. Yeah I'd find out what plugs. Champion and bosch seem to be the worst in the 3v. No mater what I'd pull it out and look at it. You wernt having problems on this cylinder before the plug change were you?

 

I had pulled the codes before I had the tune up and everything was clean

 

OK, I'll try my hand at pulling the plug out tomorrow after work and see what I'm dealing with. Hopefully I won't have any trouble. I'll post tomorrow with the end results. Thanks again guys for the input. This place is great.

 

You shouldnt have any issues getting the plug out as they were just done but when you put it back make sure to coat the shank with nickel anti seize. The shank is the part below the threads.. if your plug you remove does not have the antiseize on it your guy didnt do them right.

 

thanks for that I forgot about the anti seize. I pulled a pdf on the procedure that one of you guys posted and I'll re-read that before I dive in. By the way, what size socket are these plugs?

 

I think there 9/16.. Wierd size spark plug socket.

 

9/16

P0351 Ignition Coil Primary A / Secondary Circuit Malfunction


That's what I thought = Coil itself is good, secondary is below. Yea, you have everything you should check. I just couldn't recall the exact code def.

 

Its 9/16ths but its way deep down inside the head.


where in texas are you?

 

- I've seen these @ Harbor Freight for a a fraction of the cost -



But I can't find them now, not online anyway. The one close to me carries a few specialty tools for our trucks, but yea, I never seen any online at their stores. Just like Harley Grills, -I've never seen Harley Grills for sale as awesome as I can find at the 4x4 shop down the road (diversified creations). Their website doesn't offer one, well they didn't use to anyway, not sure if they do now.

That's how it goes I guess. You may want to try eBay if want, that socket and extension is one piece. It's an option, you don't need it.

 

Abilene, TX. I guess I should put the my town in there.
I went looking for a 9/16 spark plug socket and had no luck. I took the one I had and wrapped napkin around the new plug and shoved it into the socket to get some padding, hope it'll work for now.

The auto parts store pulled up a motorcraft part# sp-421 and didn't have one but said a sp-407 superseded the 421. I went ahead and bought the 407 since they didn't have a 421.

Got home and took my makeshift spark plug socket and pulled the plug in cyl#1 and it's a motorcraft platinum with "pzt 1f" markings on it. There's anti- seize on the threads that appears to be a kind of silverish color but there doesn't appear to be any on the shank.

I haven't found any nickel anti seize yet and will have to wait and try the more local instead of nat'l parts houses tomorrow. If that doesn't work, I have some friends that are airline mechanics and would let me have some of theirs.
I guess that would be the same thing and I'm at a standstill until I can aquire some. Will try again tomorrow.

 

You can get nickel antisieze at any autoparts store autozone or whatever. Make sure you use dielectric on the boot. What kind of shape it the boot in? It doesn't look like its the plug it being a motorcraft and all it is new right? Sounds like your mechanic didnt put the antiseize on the shank like he shoud hav the threads really dont need it because the plug itself is made out of a nickel alloy. The antiseize is to keep carbon from building up on the shank that will make the plug stick and break off in the head down the road.
The important thing here is the plug is probably not the source of the missfire. Try putting in the new one make sure the boot is in good shape if you have access to a compression tester you might wanta do that but I think its unlikely you have an issue that way. I dunno. I expected you would find an off brand plug.. See what happen when you get it back together.

 

At first glance the boot doesn't seem to be in bad shape but I haven't closely examined it for cracks or holes that might cause an arc or anything. It still has resiliency and is not crumbly or hardening.
I don't think but won't rule out compression, but nothing was going on with the truck before the spark plug change.
I didn't check autozone but advance, o'reilly's, nor pep boys had nickel anti seize. All they had was copper based.
I'll come across some nickel tomorrow and put it back together with the new plug and see if I pull any cels.

 

I'm pretty sure I got my antiseize at autozone.

 

i know for sure Pep Boys sells antiseize in a bottle, looks kinda like a rubber cement bottle, but silver colored

 

I bought some perma-tex anti seize, item#81343(133A) in a tube. It says it's for aluminum heads, blocks, etc. I installed the new plug with it thinking I can get it out if it's not the right stuff if I have too, but should probably do it soon. If anyone knows if it's the wrong lube, can you give me a part# and I'll order it online if I have too. Anyway the trucks been running fine for 3 days with no codes (Knock on wood!) except the idle under load is intermittently rough. I was thinking maybe vacuum leak but yesterday I was driving an '09 with the 4.6L? v8 and I noticed it does the same thing. Is anyone else experiencing this and if so, is there a fix for it? Thanks for the help guys