Newb with questions about COP's..
- It must just STILL, be coming out wrong.
Last edited by jbrew; Jan 17, 2010 at 07:58 PM.
Yea, but have you looked at the price of those babies? A 2010 F150 Supercrew Lariat 4x4 5.4 WOW! I don't know what you could really walk away with one for but the stickers are in the mid $40K range.
I think that I have decided to tear into the top end and do the gaskets. I am going to do both sides just because I don't want to go through all that just to find that the other one goes right away. If it costs me $500 and works that would be great. If I spend that then find out I have a deeper problem with the engine then I will put a used engine in it.
I guess I kind of want to keep the original engine in there for whatever reason.
Hopefully I will have the COP's tomorrow or Tuesday and see if I can get the one problem fixed. Then start gathering gaskets and materials for the head gasket job. In the mean time I will try to figure out that loud pulley noise.
Jbrew - The pulley noise gets loud like a power steering pump whining real loud. Then it will go away completely and then come back.
I think that I have decided to tear into the top end and do the gaskets. I am going to do both sides just because I don't want to go through all that just to find that the other one goes right away. If it costs me $500 and works that would be great. If I spend that then find out I have a deeper problem with the engine then I will put a used engine in it.
I guess I kind of want to keep the original engine in there for whatever reason.
Hopefully I will have the COP's tomorrow or Tuesday and see if I can get the one problem fixed. Then start gathering gaskets and materials for the head gasket job. In the mean time I will try to figure out that loud pulley noise.
Jbrew - The pulley noise gets loud like a power steering pump whining real loud. Then it will go away completely and then come back.

Besides, if I get upset I just log off and go kick the dog. She's a lab so she doesn't mind. She just comes right back wagging her tail.

You think your learning alot? I am learning a ton and I get to tear my truck apart


I am reading through the manula and making my list of parts and supplies.
Question 1 - Should I get the cam and crankshaft holding tools? I read somewhere that you don't need them but from experience, would it be better?
Question 2 - Haynes says the on 2003 and later Ford recommends removing the engine to replace the heads. Again, I know that it is possible to do without removing it and I really don't want to, but should I? (please say no, please say no - he whispers to himself as he taps together the heels of his ruby slippers)
No don't remove it. - Look to Dynotech's write-up on the rest.
Edit- That's here btw - https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...r-engines.html
Last edited by jbrew; Jan 17, 2010 at 09:29 PM.
Okay here's my parts list for the head gasket change. Can you see anything missing that I will need? There are a couple things like the serp belt that I am changing just as maintenance.
I am going to do both heads just because I think that one is going to be so much fun that I won't want it to end.
Are the Gaskets that I am getting particularly for the head the best ones? I know that there are different types and I don't want to skimp in the area because my previous paragraph was sarcasm
The Haynes manual says to remove the water pump. So if I need to do that then I am missing the water pump gasket. Do I need to do this?
I am going to do both heads just because I think that one is going to be so much fun that I won't want it to end.
Are the Gaskets that I am getting particularly for the head the best ones? I know that there are different types and I don't want to skimp in the area because my previous paragraph was sarcasm

The Haynes manual says to remove the water pump. So if I need to do that then I am missing the water pump gasket. Do I need to do this?
Oh man, I only had one valve cover gasket in ther. Well, at least I caught it now.
Jbrew - You know, if you go through that thing every year looking for problems, you are never going to have one of those
moments that are the spice of life.
MGDfan - So are you breaking the news to me that the water pump does not have a lifetime guarantee?
I guess it does. If it goes bad then it lasted it's whole life
Jbrew - You know, if you go through that thing every year looking for problems, you are never going to have one of those
moments that are the spice of life.
MGDfan - So are you breaking the news to me that the water pump does not have a lifetime guarantee?
I guess it does. If it goes bad then it lasted it's whole life
Anope lol, they don't use one actually. It's an option. - Not kidding. You can, you need a thermostate gasket, that's it, on the water pump. The pumps already sealed.
Last edited by jbrew; Jan 18, 2010 at 02:58 PM.
These things are sentient - they WILL ruin your day ....
Oh, I was referring to the gasket, my bad. :o
Okay I got the COP's last night. I got the grease today so I am getting close to putting this thing in.
Just want to double check the grease locations. I think that this picture shows where I need to put the dielectric and shows the area that Jbrew was talking about when he said grease the area between the plug well and the boot.


This picture shows the area that I am not sure about. If I put grease here then it will get on the spring end even after I pull the spring down to clean it off. So I am thinking that this part stays dry?
The inside of the boot is thinner most everywhere where the spring is. So the boot doesn't really touch the spring except near the end where it goes over the spark plug (where the "X" is).

Just want to double check the grease locations. I think that this picture shows where I need to put the dielectric and shows the area that Jbrew was talking about when he said grease the area between the plug well and the boot.


This picture shows the area that I am not sure about. If I put grease here then it will get on the spring end even after I pull the spring down to clean it off. So I am thinking that this part stays dry?
The inside of the boot is thinner most everywhere where the spring is. So the boot doesn't really touch the spring except near the end where it goes over the spark plug (where the "X" is).
I don't know how else to explain it, I have some new ones still in the box, extras, I'll do one up real quick tomorrow and take some pics or a just video it.
Last edited by jbrew; Jan 21, 2010 at 06:12 PM.




