spark plug question
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2009
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spark plug question
hi everibody, can somebody tell me why my spark plugs are like this?, I took my truck for a tune up about 6 months ago all the spark plugs were replaced, air filter, gas filter, oil, wires... the mechanic put NGK 7TR55gp spark plugs and few months later I started having code P0301 and P0306 just when I went up hill so this morning went ahead and check spark plug #1 and #6 they were ok, so I started checking all others and found this 2 plugs on hole # 3 and #5, I just installed motorcraft plugs SP-432 AGSF32FM, btw I own a F150 98 4.6 auto 145k
thank you and merry christmas.
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thank you and merry christmas.
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Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 5,522
Likes: 6
From: Utah
my guess is wrong heat range. Get motorcraft plugs. There always the safest option. This is the first time I've seen ngk's do this but non motorcraft plug failures are common. I'm running Denso iridiums with no issues so far..
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,226
Likes: 42
From: So. Texas
The electrodes being melted like that can be from a number of things. Here's a short list:
Wrong heat range- too hot for your engine in your case.
Predetonation can raise combustion temps well in excess of 800F and the plugs cannot stand that much temp. If you have a bore scope, I'd want to look inside and make sure this is limited to the plugs only and not valves, pistons, etc.
Wrong torque used on tightening the plugs. Plugs were loose.
Fuel octane rating wrong causing a knock which raises temps.
Excessive combustion chamber deposits causing predetonation
Driving the engine under continuous load.
Hope this has value to you.
Wrong heat range- too hot for your engine in your case.
Predetonation can raise combustion temps well in excess of 800F and the plugs cannot stand that much temp. If you have a bore scope, I'd want to look inside and make sure this is limited to the plugs only and not valves, pistons, etc.
Wrong torque used on tightening the plugs. Plugs were loose.
Fuel octane rating wrong causing a knock which raises temps.
Excessive combustion chamber deposits causing predetonation
Driving the engine under continuous load.
Hope this has value to you.
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 15
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well I think that the problem was that those 2 plugs were the only ones loose
but why I had P0301 and P0306 and not p0303 and p0305?
but why I had P0301 and P0306 and not p0303 and p0305?
The electrodes being melted like that can be from a number of things. Here's a short list:
Wrong heat range- too hot for your engine in your case.
Predetonation can raise combustion temps well in excess of 800F and the plugs cannot stand that much temp. If you have a bore scope, I'd want to look inside and make sure this is limited to the plugs only and not valves, pistons, etc.
Wrong torque used on tightening the plugs. Plugs were loose.
Fuel octane rating wrong causing a knock which raises temps.
Excessive combustion chamber deposits causing predetonation
Driving the engine under continuous load.
Hope this has value to you.
Wrong heat range- too hot for your engine in your case.
Predetonation can raise combustion temps well in excess of 800F and the plugs cannot stand that much temp. If you have a bore scope, I'd want to look inside and make sure this is limited to the plugs only and not valves, pistons, etc.
Wrong torque used on tightening the plugs. Plugs were loose.
Fuel octane rating wrong causing a knock which raises temps.
Excessive combustion chamber deposits causing predetonation
Driving the engine under continuous load.
Hope this has value to you.
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From: MI
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Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
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I'll jump in here and put my 2 cents into the discussion. I studied this spark plug problem with the 5.4 engines for 2 years while I drove my 05 F-150 5.4 engine and talked to countless mechanics at dealerships, home town shops, back yard mechanics about this plug problem. Then the moment came, I jumped in and took all the plugs out breaking 3 of them. Using the Lisle 65600 broken spark plug remover tool got the brokens out and replaced them all with Champion 7989 One Piece Design Spark Plugs. I have run this truck now for 15,000 miles with no problems.
Here are a few links to help out with decideing what to do with your plugs.
http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog...-plug-ford-3v/
http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog...ds-bad-design/
You can buy the tools and the plugs at
http://www.amazon.com/Champion-7989-...=pd_sim_auto_4
Don't forget to use Aerokroil Penetrating Oil on each of the plugs and let it set and penetrate the plugs at least a half hour and hopefully yours will come out easy.
A genuine Ford Shop manual will help.
I also replaced both cam phasers this summer with no problems, she runs like a scalded ape now. Still sounds like a diesel, but no tapping sound anymore.
Good luck hope this all helps.
JT
Here are a few links to help out with decideing what to do with your plugs.
http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog...-plug-ford-3v/
http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog...ds-bad-design/
You can buy the tools and the plugs at
http://www.amazon.com/Champion-7989-...=pd_sim_auto_4
Don't forget to use Aerokroil Penetrating Oil on each of the plugs and let it set and penetrate the plugs at least a half hour and hopefully yours will come out easy.
A genuine Ford Shop manual will help.
I also replaced both cam phasers this summer with no problems, she runs like a scalded ape now. Still sounds like a diesel, but no tapping sound anymore.
Good luck hope this all helps.
JT