After going over the 2v and 3v it looks like there is just a difference in where the cam position sensor triggers. If I set the 2v on TDC on the compression stroke the cam trigger is lined up with the sensor. If I set the 3v the same the cam trigger is 180 degrees out. When I installed the timing chains I went over and over and over them again so I'm fairly sure they are in correctly. I'm gonna email VMP and see if he can modify my new tune with the cam position changed by 180 degrees, hopefully there's somewhere to do that in the tune.....

 

There are 2 sensors on the 3 valve engine. Which one did you plug in?

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I used the driver's side same as the 2v, and had to remove four out of five tabs. This link from Paschal Performance would seem to confirm the difference in position....

http://www.paschalperformance.com/3Valve.php

What I didn't think to do was to pull the passenger side out and see if it happens to line up, I have no idea what the odds of that are. If it does I would have to extend the harness to reach but thats not a big deal.

 

You know the old saying "if it weren't for bad luck, I wouldn't have any luck at all"? I'm beginning to resemble that statement on this project... The passenger side sensor is indeed 180 degrees different and in the correct location, however, I didn't remove the extra tabs on that side as I thought I'd be using the driver's side sensor. In order to grind them off I'd need to remove the cam phaser. I'm gonna pray that VMP can offset the cam timing 180 degrees in the tune so I can just leave it plugged into the driver's side...

 

I wish I was closer... sound like you're yanking the timing cover...

 

I just got it fired up briefly. I had to remove the extra tabs on the passenger side trigger wheel, then extend the wiring across the engine to plug in on that side. It lit right off but I only ran it for a couple seconds as I had a bad rubbing noise. The power steering pulley is rubbing on a front cover bolt, so I'll go take care of that after lunch here and then tidy a few things up, put the front wheels back on, etc... I won't be able to really drive it until tomorrow as I need to pick up more coolant, the one gallon I picked up plus a gallon of water didn't fill it.

Getting close.

 

 

at least it ran under it's own power

 

Thats it.....I have a ******* curse on me......


As I was trying to finish up I found that my lower radiator hose didn't have the clearance I thought it would, the tire would hit it at full turn, so I spent the past few hours looking, measuring, cutting etc.. to make a new 3 piece twisty turny hose that goes under the oil filter. I then went back to start it again (was running just fine before) and something has gone haywire, there is a relay clicking noise in the dash like the blinkers are on only they aren't, and the locks were going up and down. Oh yeah, and the truck won't start.... I pulled the battery cable, put it back on, and same crap....clicking and locks going up and down.....

 

I saw a thing an episode on trucks, when they had their project copperhead, the 72 chev with the 572. They had some bend your own steel rad hoses on there that worked well by the looks of it on their project. I don't remember the name or a price range for it but it may be something to look into. I don't really like the idea of a 3 piece rad hose.

 

Do you have an after market alarm? Ford key fob with lock, unlock and panic features? The clicking are the relays under the oval cover on the dash. A faulty ground from the battery can cause this. A fubar'd after market alarm can also cause this.

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No aftermarket stuff. It seems like the battery was a little low, though I've never seen that behavior from a low battery before. I put the charger on it for a while and it fired up. Now, I have a serious miss to figure out, and it doesn't go into gear. I'm thinking it must be the kickdown cable, though I mounted the bracket in the only spot that would allow full movement of both the throttle cable and the kickdown. I don't know if having that out of position a bit would cause it to not shift or not, but thats about the only possibility. The miss, I have no idea right now.... I'm so sick of working on this thing I could puke, I've spent about a week and a half on it when I had planned for a few days, and its still not drivable....

 

Still no improvement... I had changed one coil pack because of a broken connector, so I swapped the replacement out in case it was bad, no change in the misfire.

After careful comparison of the throttle linkage mount to the 2v intake I ended up making a new mount for the throttle cable bracket to change the position a little. I also found that the 75mm t.b. I added had a little larger swing for the kickdown cable and had to modify that to get it in the same position as the stock t.b. Still doesn't go into gear....

 

Update....just got back from a short drive.

The shifting problem was my own stupid fault.... :o I changed the torque converter and though I put a quart in the new one before installing it I neglected to go back and check the fluid level. 3+ quarts later its shifting fine, holy crap the stock converter holds a lot!

The miss seems to be gone, but it won't rev over ~2500 rpm with or without load. Initial throttle response is very good, but then it just completely noses over. Doesn't matter if you punch it or try to rev it slowly, falls off at the same spot.

The real kick in the nuts for me after all this....the engine has a definite tick to it, sounds like it might be the passenger side head. Its an '05 that was supposed to have 24k on it, and no its not the phaser as those are locked out. Wouldn't that just be perfect?

 

is the throttle cable able to open the throttle body 100%