So in my infinite wisdom a couple nights ago I decided to load up the buddies and go have some fun. Well about 5 miles of plowing through cat tails and salt cedar at the ranch, the truck was at the top of a hill high centered.

We got to camp out under the stars that night. At the top of the hill, I gunned it back in forth in 4wd (can't remember if it was 4L or 4H). So after that was unsuccessful, we turned off the truck and got out for a while. When I went back inside to start the truck, it wouldn't crank over at all. And we had no brakes. Something I ran over cut the rear brake line at the caliper.

So today, since the battery seemed ok, as there was no reason for it to drain, I decided to swap out the starter, thinking that maybe our high centering did some damage to it. That didn't do the trick. When I try to crank the engine, it doesn't even attempt to start. I have the battery charging tonight just in case but i'm pretty sure that isnt the problem.

I'm kind of stumped at this point. I need to get it fixed by tomorrow because I am out of town and have to get back to work on Monday (I guess I should have thought of that).

Does anybody have any idea why a good starter wont crank with a good battery? What else could be the problem? I'm thinking that maybe a wire jarred loose in all the commotion, but am not sure where to start looking. Also, not sure if it matters, I noticed that the transfer case actuator connector had wires broken off of it. Is it possible that the truck could be stuck in 4WD and is preventing it from starting? I was also thinking that maybe since the brake fluid drained completely and the pedal went all the way to the floor, the brake switch that allows the truck to start somehow isn't engaging. That's about all I can think of at the moment.

Oh and one last thing. There is no way that I am going to be able to get a replacement brake hose by this weekend. Nobody seems to stock them. A mechanic at the shop suggested plugging the brake line at the rear with some sort of fitting, thus deeming that brake inoperable but maintaining pressure for the other three. He also thought that the brake systems may be independent (front right/rear left and vice versa) where as a leak in one would still provide braking in the other pair. Has anybody heard of this before? I'm starting to worry a little. Don't really want to attemp to drive 80 miles using the emergency brake!

I'll save the cosmetic issues for another thread. It's not pretty.

Thanks for any help anybody can provide. Oh and I also checked all fuses. A couple were popped but may have been for some time.

 

I know other people are better at repairs, but here are my two cents. I would look at the Positive cable at the starter. I hear it’s a copper fitting and its is a high maintenance, it will have 12v but not the amps to start the truck.

 

Sounds like a "PATS" prob on the 99, -or starter interupt relay. You already went over your connects right ? Look under the truck again. Whatever got the brake line could have tangled with the harness in another area.

 

Here is my 2 cents too: if you banged it that hard on high center check your shift linkage (I'm assuming it's an auto). You may have jacked up the lock out switch that keeps it from starting in gear. Try to start it in neutral, just a thought, or any other gear.
If its a manual check the switch that requires you to push the clutch to start it. It shouldn't matter if it's in 4Hi 4Lo or 2WD that won't effect the starter. The brakes and clutch should have separate master cylinders, so check your lines to the clutch.
That's all I've got and don't run it on alcohol any more ha ha Done there and been that!!!

 

Thanks for the quick responses guys. It is an auto and I have tried starting in both park and neutral without luck. I used my trickle charger all night (that was all I had) so maybe, with some luck it was actually the battery. Not likely, as everything else seems to be running off of it. Could it be the ignition?

When I replaced the starter, the new one had a lead already attached to it that specifically said "not to remove and to crimp and heat shrink onto the old lead". Of course I did not do this and simply removed the provided lead and just hooked up the old lead again. With the time I had left in the day, and looking at the wiring coming down to the starter, it just looked like it was going to be to difficult at that point in time.

What are the odds that it is one of the relays? I checked all the fuses but am not sure how to check the relays, since you cant visibly see them "poppped" like the fuses.

Also, did anybody have an opinion of trying to cap off the rear/right brake line and refill with fluid just until I can get the spare line that I tore off. It is going to be a few days until I can have one shipped to me.

Thanks for all the help guys. One of the worst feelings in the world waking up and looking out the window to the previous nights destruction! Live and learn.

 

For the brakes - I think you should be on the safe side and get it towed. Hopefully you have AAA and it won't cost you any.

For the starter- have you had someone change the truck into drive while your under it checking to see if it actually does. Like maybe you broke the gear selector and it's stuck into drive.

 

Well I managed to start the engine, just not with the key. When I turn the key, I get nothing, not even an attempted engine crank. I talked to a friend and he told me to short out a different relay (one that is mounted to the firewall). This did the trick and started the engine. Of course this isnt a permanent solution, but at least I know it runs.

Why will it start here but not down at the starter. I did notice that the connector that plugs into the actuator at the shift linkage has been torn and some of the wires are out. Could this be the issue?

Another problem, at least I think, is that because of these broken wires, the transmission is not sending the signal to the engine that it is now and park and can thus be removed from 4L. Right now I am stuck in 4L. Is there any manual way of disengaging 4L if I am not able to get these wires connected.

I thried to trace this wiring harness and it seemed like it connected from the shift actuator (I think that is what it is called) and ran up to several different places above the tranny that I couldnt really see. Is this harness something that can be purchased as a single unit?

Thanks for all the help again.

 

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Sounds like thar harness is the culprit, if there is enough wire on either end of the break then just color match the wires with a short patch piece. You are right about the tranny not sending a signal to the pcm, thats the saftey switch. Plus the truck has no idea what gear it is in, so without fixing the harness it may not go anyway.

 

Well here is my two cents on the brakes, if I was stuck with no parts and few tools I would take a ball peen hammer to the metal brake line and just repair it with the other one line when I could get parts(I thing ASAP does not need to be said). I never seen a fitting to block a brake like, maybe a 18" brake line to make a loop around the Tee fitting on the rear end, but you would lose both back brakes. I would use the hammer.

 

repair the harness at the transmission and the truck will start.

in a pinch if you think the relay might be the cause, swap it for a known good one, such as AC relay

 

Uhmm, there's NO wires to the actuator on the front axle, so change your thinking up a bit. You have solenoids on the firewall that control the actuator via vacuum. You have two Vac lines that run from the solenoids to the actuator. You probably ripped your vac lines. Their Blue and Pink I believe.

Your starter with the pigtail connect was the Ford upgrade, -I have the TSB in print in my gallery, and you need to use the supplied and already connected pig tail because that starter stud fractures and breaks off with very little effort/movement. What you should have done is solder their Pigtail to your harness lead.

No click when you turn the key? I have posted the answer to that problem further up. You need a map ? I got one, but this is for the 98. The 99's are different. -



Interupt or relay IMO

 

Check your fuses

 

jbrew- I think the issue was that it would not start with the key, he jumped it at the solinoid and got it to start. It seems that the park/neutral saftey switch isn't sending a signal to say it's ok to start. Also I think he meant the actuator for the T-case not the hubs. You guys are way smarter than I am so is there something with the T-case harness that would help him out?

 

Yes, that's his current issue, - mg posted that he discarded the starter upgrade. This could lead to another issue in the future. A Ford or Bosch TSB should have been in the box w/explanation. I explained the purpose of that upgrade in case the OP unaware. I know he bumped the Relay (solenoid) and she fired.

Personally I went thru two or three starters already, -before the upgrade.

Regardless, it's a lifetime starter - free, if anything happens, it's just a hassle.

The "Actuator" is on the front axle, the "4WD Motor" is back by the T- Case, The TRS (TransmissionRangeSensor) is mounted on the Driver-side of the trans pan, VSS mounted on top in the tail shaft housing. Yea, if ANY of these wires/harness were compromised, they need attention first. You know what he probably did ??? I bet he knocked the TRS out of alignment, if the wires are still connected.. It's sits fairly low to the ground and she won't start right until you re-align. You turn it by hand and use your reverse lights to help align if I recall.

About the actuator: -I guess I don't understand what your saying ? No actuator back there , just accumulators lol. Here's the Actuator on the front axle -

 

jbrew- good sounds like we're headed in the same direction, wasn't sure about al the parts and their names. At least I'm glad to hear that I'm not totally FOS! haha