Hi All,

So I've got potentially a host of issues going on and not sure where to start. Figured I would post here and get your thoughts on things to check and steps to try. Really would not like to be taken to the cleaners by the dealership - you should have seen the way their eyes sparkled when I walked in last time - it was like lights went off that said "single female, take advantage."

For reference, I have a 2005 Ford Expedition King Ranch that I bought in California and is now currently located in Virginia. The car had no issues with starting or check engine lights recently. The last time I had a check engine light was in October 2008 when I had a throttle body fail and got it replaced. The car just received an oil change and tire rotation and balance in August 2009 and is at almost 72K miles. I drive roughly 30 miles roundtrip daily to and from work and 100 miles roundtrip on the weekends to get to my horse.

Recommendation from dealership after completing state safety inspection:
1. Replace battery
2. Fuel induction cleaning to fix gunked up throttle body
3. Clean K&N air filter

I cleaned the K&N air filter on Monday night - no issues, no error lights after the cleaning. I was extremely paranoid about the potential of putting on too much oil and causing an issue with CO2 sensors but I know that is not the case as I have driven the car Tuesday night through this morning without error lights. Bought a Costco battery and a bottle of 3M throttle body and carb cleaner.

My friend and I disconnected the air intake to get to the throttle body. Turned the car on, noticed that it idled multiple times and then would stall out after maybe 30-60 seconds. Turned the car on and sprayed in throttle body cleaner after revving the engine to between 2000 and 3000 RPMs and repeated process as car stalled out and died. Only successfully sprayed a small amount in until I received the error code "throttle body control issue" and the CEL came on. I'd say the light and error code came on roughly 15 minutes and 5 throttle body cleaner sprays into the process. At that point, we reconnected the air intake and everything else and turned on the car to make sure it started properly - it did. Then, we disconnected the old battery and installed the new Costco battery. Reconnected it, horn began going on off continuously - I expected this, and attempted to start the car. The car would not start. When I attempt to start the car, I see the dashboard panel lights come on, power windows/seats/etc and radio work. Engine does not turn over at all. Attempted to start the car at least 2 times.

So, now, the questions:
1. Is the CEL coming on a result of the throttle body cleaner hitting the throttle body sensor? This is a 1 year old throttle body - the last time I saw that throttle body error was in October 2008 when the car died and I had to replace the entire TB.
2. Will hooking the car up to a diagnostic computer enable me to reset the computer so the CEL isn't on? Assuming of course that there isn't a bigger issue with the TB.
3. What are the chances I've created a bigger issue with the TB and or otherwise killed it such that it needs to be replaced?
4. Since the car engine would not start after the replacement battery, is it likely I have purchased a bad battery?
5. Is it a safe assumption that if I put in the old battery and the car successfully starts I can rule out starter cable or alternator cable issues?

Any information or thoughts you have would be greatly helpful. I realize a lot of you may think these are newbie questions and I freely admit and apologize for them but I'm a girl trying to learn as much as possible so I don't get hosed by dealerships.

Thanks,
Kesbeck

 

If you have problems with idle shortly after oiling the K&N I'd bet dollars to donuts you foulded the mass air flow sensor (MAF). You don't foul oxygen sensor from air filter oil; it's the (MAF) sensor that gets fouled. It's good practice to clean the MAF shortly after you clean the K&N. I would do this first. All you ned to do is take it off the intake & spray with MAF or electronic cleaner (CRC brand is available at most auto part stores).

If you have a lot of carbon build up & you don't want to take the intake apart, the best & easiest treatment is to go to a shop and get a motorvac cleaning. I think it's only around $100 and from what I hear, well worth it. Every time I've cleaned my TB and intake manifold, I've taken it apart and not sprayed carb cleaner into it while running. Don't know if that could be causing your problem, but I wouldn't do it that way if it's very dirty. If it's just the TB that's dirty, you can take that loose from the manifold in a few minutes and clean it by hand with the carb cleaner.

Did you read the code(s) after the CEL came on? What code, specifically did you get? There is a throttle position switch (TPS) on the TB which is what I'm assuming you're referring to and may or may not have been replaced when the TB was replaced. If that's the code you're getting it probably needs to be replaced. They're about $50 to $60 for OEM replacements. Seems strange that an entire TB would fail; what exactly happened to it?

It's possible you got a bad battery; what does the gauge on the dash show for voltage? Is it sized for that engine? Don't know anything about Costco batteries but i believe you get what you pay for, but even if it's a cheap battery it should work if it's the right size. If the gauge shows low voltage & the other one still worked, I would put it back in and see what happens.

 

You should have let the dealer do the induction cleaning. They have the proper equipment and chemicals to do it. Most dealers use either BG or Motorvac, both are very good.

Running the engine with the intake tube off will confuse the computer big time - because the MAF is not detecting any airflow.

 

The throttle body is electronic and it doesn't like solvents. The only way to clean one yourself is to REMOVE it from the engine disassemble it and clean the electronic parts with electrical parts cleaner and the rest of it with throttle body cleaner. Sounds to me like you should have let the dealer do it would have saved you money. The Battery my guess is you didn't connect it correctly you should recheck connections and just because the dealer tells you you need one does not mean you do. Did it die? If it was still working just fine you should have left it. Try to find a friend to help that knows a little about cars.

 

the starters not engaging? do you hear anything clicking when you turn the key to start? i'd check the battery connections and go check everything that was touched. and you never know, the new battery could've been bad while on the shelf. i run into that quite a bit when people bring in them walmart "neverstart" batteries. and what was the part # on the battery?
does the truck have a factory or aftermarket alarm system?

 

All,

Thank you for the assistance - my friend and I were able to get the issue resolved. I spoke with the dealership service area Thursday evening and they informed me that the engine was not turning over due to the anti-theft system and provided me with information about the override process. They also informed me that the check engine light should clear up once I turn the engine on again with everything connected (which it did). Again, I appreciate the responses.

Regards,
Kesbeck