Not the factory one. The copper one used for my sending unit. you all know how you have to run a T fitting off of the filter cooler housing and remote mount a sending unit...I knew it would and it finally did.... MY oil light came on, PSI went to 25 and I knew there was an issue... Shut er down. Underneath was COMPLETELY covered in my liquid gold.... I got a nylon line on it now... I dont know what would be a permanant fix to this, steal braided??? Its in such a bad place, I have no idea

 

Wow, that sucks! Hopefully no engine damage occurred?.....

 

naw... my gauge read around 25 before I shut er down

 

How did it blow? Compression fitting? Did the line come out or break? Copper is usually very soft and not prone to breaking. I can't imagine it breaking if you slip a piece of GOOD vacuum line over it and route it properly. I have run aux. oil pressure lines and never had any problems at all. That nylon line gets close to an exhaust pipe and it's not gonna fare near as well as the copper.

 

the nylon line is not near any heatsource such as exhuast. The copper line broke off inside the ferrule. I can see the nylon workin much better. But this isnt a permanant fix, I want to run a steel braided line, but have no idea where to get one that will thread onto my fittings

 

question... My front diff doesnt move right??? it happened when I hit a SLIGHT bump. The copper bend was close to the diff, but I have hit curbs at 40 and it never hurt it then... I dont think the diff moves, does it?

 

it broke here, but inside the t-fitting

 

it looks like its touching diff, but its not. Anyone have a beter wau to route this thing?

 

CTC- You just need to shorten that fitting arrangement up. I think the copper is fine, it was the engine that moved down with compression of the mounts when you went over the bump. I don't think the dif is able to move. Just use a shorter nipple off the block or a brass "block" type fitting with one side male and the other female, if the sending unit will clear the engine that way. There has to be a way to get that plumbers nightmare shortened up so that it can't contact the dif. If the other end of that copper tube is mounted to the chassis (too much flex between engine and chassis) then I would make a couple of loops (about 2" in diameter) between the 2 ends to allow for flex. I never trusted nylon, maybe it works out OK (and would take care of the flex problem) but just seemed more fragile than copper. You should also be able to get a "block" fitting that has an angle to it.

 

everything is mounted to the block so moves with engine... I was thinking the flucuation of the mounts may have down it also, but like I said man, I baja my truck damn near. I have had all 4 off the ground at one time, and this line was fineI definately need to shorten the t-fitting up though.



thanks

 

your pumpkin is stationary, youve been told that your engine has the most play.

copper doesnt agree with vibrations in general, the coil method may help, perhaps you could eyeball some stainless line in the same size. and to be honest, your best bet would to be mount it to another item on the block so it all moves the same. no flexing. maybe a bracket off the block?

 

CTC, -Use Ford spec or better, - Hydraulic set up. That's something you want to fix once and never have to worry about again.

Yea, they don't use copper for our Exhaust and EGR systems as well. It's like Klitch posted above. It almost looks like you used a Refrigerator Ice Maker kit lol. - Or some other cheap kit w/soft TYPE M* Copper.

 

we use copper lines at work... only on things that dont move. we love poly tubing, but we use it for air, water, and grease on less vibratory settings.

on applications similar, we have messes that crop up. 100 horse air compressor, screw drive, loves oil... i mean it loves it. theres about a dozen copper lines, someone had the brilliant idea of tying them all together without supports. guess what? they rub through and i get to clean the mess up 5 years later. this is SMALL vibrations.

 

Mannnn, don't yuh hate that , - cleaning up some other Fat Heads MESS ??? !!!!

I'd biatch about that one for 2 weeks, - and keep adding other crap to complain about with each of those anger management sessions I decide to warrant.

Yea, something ATLEAST as good as OEM or better. I've never had to replace my original remote oil lines yet.

Seems like he could throw a Z fitting on that, - then a rubber Hydro line. Like this maybe -

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91881

 

hah so many pivot points lol.

problem with my air compressor is its required to run 24/7 cause the little one cant always keep up.

i honestly am considering parker hydraulic lines myself, since i have access to scrap line at work. not very often we use less than 1 foot lol