I broke the 1st driver side cop bolt trying to tighten it after changing the plug. I finger threaded it as far as I could and I diddnt think it was cross threaded but apparently it was and snap it went. I have read a similar post from someone who got alot of advice but I am still not sure what I'm going to do, the truck runs fine without the bolt but I would like to fix it. There is a little bit of the bolt sticking up still, I called my dad and he suggested trying vice grips but I thought I would look for advice here too. I am lucky it was the closest cop making this as easy as possible. All suggestions are appreciated.

 

It does look like there is a little sticking up. You may be able get it with a vice grip but I would try and borrow a pair of the needle nose if you don't have one. they have finer teeth, and you need to really clamp it pretty tight because you're probably only gonna get one shot at it. If that doesn't do it, I would center punch and drill it and use a tap to clean the threads out. The bolts they use I'm sure are pretty soft.

 

Yea, it would have to be loose for you to be able to get it out the way it looks IMO , Iduno, maybe lol..

Grind it flat/ Center punch/ Run an 1/8 drill thru it. Try to hit dead center and you'll extract it quicker. Depending on what type easy outs your using, you may have to step up to a larger bit, but I would start with a freshly Drill Doctored 1/8" 'er first.

You have to take it easy when tightening those coils, - that bolt fastens them to a the coil bushing, -coils are suppose to be able to move on this bushing, -by hand, -back and forth. That way the housings won't fracture in the near future.

 

Have someone tack weld a nut onto it and try to back it out.

 

Thanks for the ideas, I diddnt get to it today but when I fix it i'll post up how I did it.

 

get a dremel tool and grind a slot across the broken bolt then use a screwdriver to remove the broken bolt. Make sure if you use an "easy out" or a drill bit that you do not break them off. If the bolt is cross threaded then it could be difficult to remove because you have to apply atleast the same amount or torque to remove the stud as it took to break the head off. If the bolt head broke as a result of over tightening it then it may be much easier to remove

From the looks of the picture as a last resort may have to drill the bolt out, it looks like there is enough room to use a new bolt with a nut

 

Yea, try that first ^^^^ - Don't grind it flat unless you have to drill, but like Bubbadewsky posted, - grind a slot first and try a screw driver. I've done that with allot success, just forgot about it

If worse comes to worse and you do manage to break a drill bit or easy-out off inside, (it happens)there's still hope lol. I use burrs instead of drill bits for most automotive bolts over #8's. A burr will cut right thru any drill bit , like butter

Dremel makes some small burrs under a 1/4".

Here's a pic of some larger ones I use, the smaller one on the right has many miles on it and it will still run right thru a hardened broken bolt like nothing.

You need a die grinder tho, a Dremel is pricey, - shoot Harbor freight sells Chicago Die Grinders cheaper than that bit cost lol

 

since when do 97s have COPS?

 

All 5.4's have cops.

 

i thought non PI's were plug wires

 

Just the 4six, - until sometime in 2000 (late) - Then the 4six was upgraded to COP Ig systems, -about the same time they went PI (in 2001).

Yea , as said, - the 5four has always had 8 dedicated coils, - (COP systems).

 

cool didnt know that, i knew older 4.6s were plug wires, and i just assumed same was true for the 5.4s