Bg moa
Bg moa
I recently purchased a 2006 Tuscany Ftx F150. It has 18,000 miles on it.
I was debating what oil to use. I was thinking of going w/ a full synthetic
such as Amsoil or Royal Purple. My brother works at an automotive shop
and they recommend a product called BG MOA. Does anyoe know about this
product, if so,is it any good? Thanks!
I was debating what oil to use. I was thinking of going w/ a full synthetic
such as Amsoil or Royal Purple. My brother works at an automotive shop
and they recommend a product called BG MOA. Does anyoe know about this
product, if so,is it any good? Thanks!
I would just put motorcraft 5-20 with a motorcraft filter or oil and filter equal or greater then OEM.. Stay away from the snake oils.. The are about 10 million oil threads try doing a search with the search feature..
MOA is a Zinc (ZDDP) blended with light oils. It is similar to the additive package in extended interval oils. It would probably be cheaper just to buy those oils than to try to play chemist on your existing oils. I would not add it to Amsoil as there is already enough ZDDP in their oils (with the exception of the XL series).
They know how to maximize profit. BG is a high profit line of chemicals and services. Some of their stuff is REALLY good, but an oil additive is totally unnecessary.
I had the dealer do a BG intake cleaning job on mine, that's a good system. I have BG lubes in my tranny and rear, the reason I did that is that's the line of synthetics the shop I go to uses. I use BG44K in my gas about twice a year.
Tuscany, how often do you plan on changing your oil? If you aren't going to go over 5000 miles, just use the Motorcraft as suggested. If you want to use extended drain intervals, use Amsoil Signature. However, when you see the price of that stuff, you may have second thoughts.
The difference between regular and synthetic oils these days is nowhere near as great as it used to be. Regular oils are getting better and better due to modern chemistry, and synthetics are not because the cost of PAO is going through the roof - and most "synthetics" these days actually use a petroleum base stock.
I had the dealer do a BG intake cleaning job on mine, that's a good system. I have BG lubes in my tranny and rear, the reason I did that is that's the line of synthetics the shop I go to uses. I use BG44K in my gas about twice a year.
Tuscany, how often do you plan on changing your oil? If you aren't going to go over 5000 miles, just use the Motorcraft as suggested. If you want to use extended drain intervals, use Amsoil Signature. However, when you see the price of that stuff, you may have second thoughts.
The difference between regular and synthetic oils these days is nowhere near as great as it used to be. Regular oils are getting better and better due to modern chemistry, and synthetics are not because the cost of PAO is going through the roof - and most "synthetics" these days actually use a petroleum base stock.
Trending Topics
Thanks for all the info! GLC , I plan on changing my oil every 5,000, NO More! I am a firm believer in maintenance. I think I will go with the Motorcraft or Mobile 1. I was interested in the BG Moa because they offer a very good warranty! My brother is pushing it big time, even to family. He seems to believe it is a great product and service/warranty on the motor. I think I will do like you and use these products more for the tranny,brakes,fuel,etc. They offer great incentives for these services. Thanks again!
Per MSDS it is :
70%+/- heavy napthenic petroleum distillates
30%+/- Butanedioic thio-bis ester
It does not show any metals in the formula which means there is no ZDDP. It is intended to be a friction modifier via the ester in it. While esters can show small gains in lubricity, the amount in the bottle equates to a drop of water in the lake. While BG makes some of the finest products available, this isn't one of them. This is about as good as Duralube, Slick 50, and others only this stuff will not damage the engine. But there is little usable value in a bottle and none that your engine will ever know.
70%+/- heavy napthenic petroleum distillates
30%+/- Butanedioic thio-bis ester
It does not show any metals in the formula which means there is no ZDDP. It is intended to be a friction modifier via the ester in it. While esters can show small gains in lubricity, the amount in the bottle equates to a drop of water in the lake. While BG makes some of the finest products available, this isn't one of them. This is about as good as Duralube, Slick 50, and others only this stuff will not damage the engine. But there is little usable value in a bottle and none that your engine will ever know.
If you use Mobil 1, use the EP formulation, 5w20. It's a lot more synthetic than the regular stuff, and only about 50 cents a quart more. That's what I'm using, along with a Mobil 1 filter, and I'm changing it between 8 and 10k.
I put in 6 quarts, and it puts the oil about 1/3 of the way up the hashmarks. When it gets down to the add line, I add a quart. When it hits the add line again, I get it changed.
If you have a limited slip rear axle and want to use BG gear lube, make sure you put in the friction modifier. The base lube does not have it in there, it's packaged separately.
I put in 6 quarts, and it puts the oil about 1/3 of the way up the hashmarks. When it gets down to the add line, I add a quart. When it hits the add line again, I get it changed.
If you have a limited slip rear axle and want to use BG gear lube, make sure you put in the friction modifier. The base lube does not have it in there, it's packaged separately.
I use MOA every oil change. They do a test to sell it to dealers where they run the engine with oil and MOA and then drain all of it out. Then turn the engine back on and it will not lock down because of the moa. Just the motorcraft oil drained will lock down in a matter of minutes. IMO it is well worth every penny.





