starter keeps burning out

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Old Aug 30, 2009 | 06:34 PM
  #1  
bashfullfun's Avatar
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From: Wendell N.C (Prev. Michigan)
starter keeps burning out

I have a 2000 f150 with the 5.4. It just didnt start the other day when leaving the store. We came to the conclusion it was the starter. So we got it home, changed the starter with just a used one, and it screeched so we shut it off, and brother messed with couple things and restarted it, at that point it screeched then then cut down. We shut it off and the starter no longer worked. So off i went and bought another used starter (which both were tested good before being put in my truck) this one did same thing only it smoked and smelled like something burning too. Once again fried starter. So can anyone either tell me what i am doing wrong or tell me if it could be something causing this?
 
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Old Aug 30, 2009 | 06:48 PM
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shaunakadub's Avatar
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From: Boston
Might want to have this moved to another forum other than "comments and suggestions".
 
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Old Aug 30, 2009 | 11:01 PM
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From: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Moved to a more appropriate forum
 
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 12:30 AM
  #4  
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From: NW Indiana
sounds like the starter is staying engaged while the engine is runnig, therefore overspeeding you starter and it going boom...

I dont recall a shim plate, but you might need the starter to be shimmed, also the flywheel may be out of whack
 
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 02:14 PM
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From: Windsor,Ontario,Canada
No shims like on GMs so the Flywheel may be keeping the Starter gear from returning to rest. I would also check the starter mounting surface in the transmission. It may be keeping the starter from sitting flat and the gear binds on the flywheel. A faulty switch on the firewall may be sticking in the start position. Before you rip things apart, with transmission in park, turn the key to the run position but don't start the engine. On the switch on the firewall disconnect the small wire that has a rubber 90 degree cap on it. Short the two positive large terminals on the switch together. This will send current to the starter. If the starter returns to rest after you remove the short the switch was most likely sticking in the start position.

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Last edited by JMC; Aug 31, 2009 at 02:20 PM.
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Old Aug 31, 2009 | 04:58 PM
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From: MI
Originally Posted by JMC
No shims like on GMs so the Flywheel may be keeping the Starter gear from returning to rest. I would also check the starter mounting surface in the transmission. It may be keeping the starter from sitting flat and the gear binds on the flywheel. A faulty switch on the firewall may be sticking in the start position. Before you rip things apart, with transmission in park, turn the key to the run position but don't start the engine. On the switch on the firewall disconnect the small wire that has a rubber 90 degree cap on it. Short the two positive large terminals on the switch together. This will send current to the starter. If the starter returns to rest after you remove the short the switch was most likely sticking in the start position.

.
Your speaking of the relay (or switch) on the firewall right? You have to be, - so when it returns to rest, you should just hear a sort of click right? Then should you reconnect everything and try to re-start to cofirm a bad relay/switch (relay on firewall, not starter). If she starts, that's the problem...?
 
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Old Sep 1, 2009 | 11:58 AM
  #7  
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From: Windsor,Ontario,Canada
Originally Posted by jbrew
Your speaking of the relay (or switch) on the firewall right? You have to be, - so when it returns to rest, you should just hear a sort of click right? Then should you reconnect everything and try to re-start to cofirm a bad relay/switch (relay on firewall, not starter). If she starts, that's the problem...?
Basically this should eliminate the switch on the firewall as the problem. Shorting out the two terminals bypasses the switch all together. If the starter still sticks then the switch is OK. You could test the switch with a continuity tester but this way is easier. The switch will not click when performing this test because we are not using the switch at all.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier
 
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Old Sep 2, 2009 | 06:20 PM
  #8  
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From: MI
[
Originally Posted by JMC
Basically this should eliminate the switch on the firewall as the problem. Shorting out the two terminals bypasses the switch all together. If the starter still sticks then the switch is OK. You could test the switch with a continuity tester but this way is easier. The switch will not click when performing this test because we are not using the switch at all.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier
Thanks for the info JMC! Steve83 posted an awesome diagram of this system -

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/285644_1

bashfullfun, -did you get it figured out yet?

EDIT: - JMC - with the time spent and parts purchased building a good quality harness for our battery and charging systems. I found this site has saved lots of time and $$$ - They have the right stuff that's for sure.

http://rjminjectiontech.com/?p=7

Also have great informatives/how-to's

I can't believe what the manufacturer charges lol -

Parts Information OEM Part # Price
Battery Cable

Negative Cable
----------------------------------F65Z14301C--------$233.96 Notes
Positive Cable

Battery to Relay
-----------------------------------F75Z14300DA-------$71.96 Notes
 

Last edited by jbrew; Sep 2, 2009 at 07:00 PM.
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