no.

 

Okay, I figured the back pressure is off or something. This is turning out to be more confusing then i thought, I have checked just about everything, One thing i noticed this morning when i crunk her up i had some blow by... quite a bit of blow by but i still have alot of compression, I am gonna re-ring her later but if that is my problem i will have to do it ASAP.

 

i didnt read the whole thread so tell me if this has already been checked. make sure the engine is warmed up, then shut it off, and make sure that all the valves have some lash on the compression strokes. basically make sure they have some play to let you know the valves are closing all the way. and while your at it make sure all the valves are moving as well. make sure that all the terminals inside the cap are wearing evenly. and make sure that all the wires are pushed onto the cap and the plugs all the way. do you have a spout connector in the holder? or did they not have spouts in 83?

 

I have already checked the valves, There Closing completely. The Terminals in the cap are wearing evenly. Wires are all on the cap & plugs. Sorry, But what is a spout connector?

 

its the spark output thing, for timing advance on fords electronic timing advance. which ignition system do you have? duraspark 2? tfi? tfi4?
if its vacuum advance is the advance mechanism working?

 

It is duraspark 2 and the vacuum advance is working correctly.

 

It's hard to diagnose with out hearing it. But it sounds like the float level is to low, or trash behind the needle and seat.

 

You could take the carp off take the float bowl off and give it a quick cleaning see if that helps. I still think the problem is ignition or in the valve train.

 

In one post it is described as a backfire, which could be timing or valve train.
In another post it is described as popping and lack of power, which is almost always fuel delivery. Trash behind the needle, will allow it to idle OK, but when the float drops and demands more fuel it will pop and gurgle.
The question really is , Has the carburetor been cleaned or just an old one bolted on. When they set up for long periods of time, the fuel turns to varnish and plugs up the little openings. The fuel needs to flow on demand fast enough to create a 0 balance, in the venturi so it can suck the fuel from the spray bar in the carb.
If it is an old carb that hasn't been boiled out and re kitted, I'll bet you the problem is there. Also the old Holley's and Carters were very sensitive to these problems. If the seat is corroded up,it wll need to be replaced, though sometimes a night soaking in cleaner will shine it up enough.

That is why I say it is hard to diagnose without Hereing it run. He has good spark, but under a load, a defective coil has almost the same symptoms.
But I'm betting on fuel. The float level also takes pressure out of the equation if not under heavy demand, such as cruising or pulling.

 

Carburetor rebuild kits are only about $20 might as well eleminate that. I'd start with a simple cleaning though.

 

The carb is old but it has always been in use (from what i understand from previous owner) I will pull it off and tear it down to clean it and see if that helps, The coil is new and is a Motorcraft part. Thanks! I bet the carb is my problem, I have eliminated everything except it.

 

I am gonna try the cleaning, Would you happen to know what carb came on the 83 f150? i cant seem to find it anywhere and if i don't have the model chances are i will get the wrong rebuild kit.

 

If you have another distributor, Mallory points or Mallory UniLite you could make sure it's not the old DSII stuff causing the problem.

I'd also check to make sure no vacuum plugs are missing on the carb or manifold causing a lean condition resulting in popping or backfire too. Checking the float level would be the first place I'd start on the carb.

 

There should be a tag on the carb. Take it with you. Got to a decent parts joint if there are any left where you live. They are getting scarce. Should be able to find it with the part number on the carb. Didn't you say its a holley? Should be easy to find it. Summit probably has it. go to there web site and search for the part number thats on the carb.

 

I know this is a old thread but i just got around to working on my truck again, I pulled the hose that goes from the valve cover to the air cleaner to check the blow by and boy did it have alot so i am going to pull the motor and rebuild it and buy a new carb and 4 barrel intake. Also it isn't the timing i have it set 10 deg. BTDC and checked with timing light.