Seized Engine

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Old Aug 27, 2009 | 09:55 AM
  #46  
4.6 Punisher's Avatar
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From: Douglasville GA
It's common knowledge that Fram's are bad at, well everything. When your filters eventually disintigrate and seize up your engine, you'll finally learn.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2009 | 11:15 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by mercurdeez
My 5.4l was doing that a couple years back.. i would be driving and all of the sudden oil pressure drop. I turned the truck off and looked under and no leaks. Oil was 4 qts low so i filled her up and did it again. 1 oil filter later and 5 hours figured out it was pissing oil when running where the oil housing is bolted to the engine block, the gasket was bad. $350 later it was fixed. Thank god i caught it before she siezed up!!!!! I went through 2 cases of oil stopping every 3 miles to get to the Ford dealership. I was to cheap for a tow.. hahaha. That was just dumb of me.
I have an '01 5.4L that dropped oil pressure with an abrubt stop. Checked oil and nothing on stick. Drained oil to change and maybe 4qts came out. I have no noticable oil marks on garage floor. Is the "oil housing" referred to above the oil pan? If not, where is the oil housing or where are some other gasket areas I could look to see if there are any gasket failures.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2009 | 04:45 PM
  #48  
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From: MI
Originally Posted by brownbr66
I have an '01 5.4L that dropped oil pressure with an abrubt stop. Checked oil and nothing on stick. Drained oil to change and maybe 4qts came out. I have no noticable oil marks on garage floor. Is the "oil housing" referred to above the oil pan? If not, where is the oil housing or where are some other gasket areas I could look to see if there are any gasket failures.
What do you mean by abrupt stop ? The oil sender quit sending ? Gauge went limp? Or did the truck quit running and seize?

"Oil Housing" = Yes, an oil pan can be referred to that way,- if it must.

You got 4 quarts out of her, - Yea , 2 quarts low is pretty much a dry stick.

No visible leaks on the outside ? -Check compression and PCV valve.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2009 | 05:07 PM
  #49  
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Braking hard instead of abrubt stop. The engine continued to run but the oil pressure needle bottomed out then popped back to normal range within a few seconds.

I have been reading a bunch about the PCV Valve but not sure if I have the heated kind or where it is on my engine. '01 F150 V8 5.4L. Tonight I will be looking in the areas where others have written where it is located. After changing the oil and observing the running engine, I also noticed a buzzing sound some have described as coming from the PCV vlave on the passenger side of the engine so I will start there.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2009 | 05:26 PM
  #50  
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From: MI
Originally Posted by brownbr66
Braking hard instead of abrubt stop. The engine continued to run but the oil pressure needle bottomed out then popped back to normal range within a few seconds.

I have been reading a bunch about the PCV Valve but not sure if I have the heated kind or where it is on my engine. '01 F150 V8 5.4L. Tonight I will be looking in the areas where others have written where it is located. After changing the oil and observing the running engine, I also noticed a buzzing sound some have described as coming from the PCV vlave on the passenger side of the engine so I will start there.
On the 01, if yours is heated, all they did is wrap a coolant line around it. - It's called the Cold Climate System.

You have to run a Motorcraft valve in these trucks. ALL other replacement valves I've seen are way to restrictive and don't have the Margins needed for your tight tolerenced engine to breath properly. Therefore they suck oil and run like a slug. The Fram valve is the worst of them all as far as restriction.

Purchase a Motorcraft valve and compare to a Fram or the one your currently using if not a Motorcraft and you'll see what mean.

____________________________

These engines also need the right viscosity oil and correct filter. You need to figure out if the sender is malfunctioning, sender wire/bad connection (single wire left side of block/bottom above the axle) or the pump is going. There could be other internal problems as well, -hope not.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2009 | 10:31 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by code58
Been listening to your son's BIL again huh? You need to turn a deaf ear to that guy. Purolator has made Motorcraft filters for a long, long time (there may have been others who have made the filters for Motorcraft over the past 40-45 yrs., but always to Fords standards) and I don't think there's a ghost of a chance they would ever let Fram touch anything that went into a Ford. Fram rhymes with Scam- very appropriate. You owe it to yourself to tear it apart and find what really happened. My money is still on what I said originally. You don't want to make the mistake of using that junk again and having to replace another engine.
installed the new motor, have a couple issues to correct but it seems to be running well..(except for the friggin egr pipe).. i will tear down the old engine to try and figure out what happened. Would be good experience. wish i could ship it to DYNOTECH and let him look at it... its amazing the amount of experience that some of you guys have on these Fords...
 

Last edited by exsubsailor; Aug 27, 2009 at 10:34 PM.
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Old Jan 3, 2010 | 07:15 PM
  #52  
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Unhappy

I have a 08 4.6 F150 with 68,000 miles on it. I drove it to Colorado the day after christmas. I experienced a sudden drop in oil pressure and the engine died. I could not restart the engine so I had it towed to Denver dealership. Dealership says something internal broke engine seized and I need a new engine,$6050.00. I have my oil changed every 3000 miles and I am the original owner of this truck. I have always driven Ford trucks and have never had a problem like this. I found this forum to be very helpfull but it appears that this is more common than everyone thinks. i will be checking the oil filter brand and having the dealership check the pickup screens.Are there any other suggestions?
 
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