Thanks Man! Did you find your fan on ebay? Salvage Yard maybe? I think I've seen complete MarkVIII kits for sale, -seem to recall they wanted allot for them, -to purchase that way anyway.
Some guys collect all the parts themselves, here and there , -total cost ends up quite a bit cheaper when done that way. - It's a little more work , but worth it from what I hear.

 

I got mine from a pick' n pull for about $40 with the harness......they pop off really easy. 2 heavy duty relays, some wire, and a controller ran me about $125 all together....plus the case of beer for the install.

 

Sounds good, yea I probably should do that to help her out a little bit, - she might even give me 400,000 in return - (I know that's kind of pushing it lol, - so far so good tho @ 266,000

Yea Galaxy said he noticed a nice difference in response and acceleration with his kit. The Troyer Kit I believe. - Personally I like the 1 Fan over two and I've seen the Mark VIII spin up way back when - My ex worked on the Launch, back in 91-92 (I think it was) - Looked/sounded like a nice set up.

Yea, I'm gonna do it. I have to do something sortuh fun, -doing body work now and it frickin blows!

Thanks for the info

 

I know I hate body work, especially when I used to have the older style F150 (mine was a 95), those dang wheel wells got the best of me.

I really can't see the pic below but it looks like you have some bumper damage maybe? I'm sure if all of us here kept our rigs clean and well maintained like yours....400K won't be a problem.

Happy hunting for your fan.

 

Thanks, No accident damage or dents yet. -Every winter for that last 5 years, I have to fix From the lower body line down. Made new Rockers for it once already. I tried everything short of replacing everything, it's a losing battle when they start to rust - still fighting that one lol. MI Salt hasn't much mercy.



This was last Spring, You can see a little surface rust,- if you look close towards the very bottom., - it creeps up quick lol.



Don't wanna rob the thread, thanks again for th info

 

Ditto with DCControls. Extremely nice controller with variable speed. The Derale/Hayden type are the one's with all the reliability problems. DCControls, Flex-a-lite and Spal all make nice variable speed controllers that are well designed, not subject to power surges and have great track records. I use relay type controllers on the tranny and IC e-fans, but not the primary cooling e-fans.

With relayed controllers, it really is worth the time and extra $3 to install clamp down diodes. They will significantly increase life span.

Troyer has new controllers now. He sent me a couple to try out to get my opinions (we're friends). They are nothing like the old style. Significantly different, with a metal base, water cover on the adjuster, the wiring harness has a quick disconnect. Don't know what's inside, but if weight is any indication they are much better build than that old style. I disconnected one of my e-fans from the DCControls unit and have it running his new style controller. So far I'm impressed. No indication of any of the heat problems associated with the old Derale/Hayden style design. And, with the quick disconnect, if by some fluke the controller did get damaged you could literally swap in a new one in 30 seconds. What's really nice is that even though the instructions say the temp range starts at around 150, I've found you can actually crank it down to about 90 degrees, which is good if you run a fan on an intercooler setup. If I didn't already have the DC Controls unit hooked up I'd have Troyer's new style controllers running both main cooling fans.

The thing to note about any controller is under hood heat. Under hood temps can easily get to 180 degrees, and high current can tax the plastic on controllers, and the fuse holder as well. Even with a properly rated fuse and fuse holder the combined engine and circuit heat can melt the holder to the fuse (with the fuse not blown). I had a MAX type fuse holder rated to 70 amps with a 40 amp fuse melt! Now everything which is heat sensitive is located on the radiator frame near the passenger headlight where its much cooler than further back under the hood.

 

I didn't have a chance to read through all the posts, but this may help people get all the wiring under control. This setup is in my 1979 Bronco and I have had no problems with it at all.

Update 15 SEP 09:

Redid my wiring for the electric fan install.

Two 175w fuses coming from the battery


200 amp relay. Power from the battery goes to a fuse box. The other power wire from the battery goes to a switch. From the switch it goes to the realy to open and close the power flow. Also you can see the start of my F350 brake upgrade. Soon I wil replace or reuse the lines and change the fittings.



Ford Winstar dual electric fan and fan controller with temp senser. Currently have only one fan wired up. Will wire the second fan later.



Fuse block for gauges. Probably overkill, but couldn't hurt.


Basic small engine temp, volts and oil pressure gauges. Just big enough so I can kep an eye on things. One switch is the cut off for the relay which kills everything. The second swith will be for the second fan when I wire it all up.