Alright so the motor is out of the truck, again lol. The heads are off and sitting on the bench, now i need to figure out what i need to do. I got the cams and valve springs, what else should i need to get the most out of these cams? A cylinder head shop says a 10 angle port job would "take away torque" meaning it wouldnt be much of a benefit to torque as it would be to hp, which is not what im looking for. I have been told i should do valves aswell for a tigher seal. So what size do i need? Here is the options it gives me.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/P...0/?Ns=Rank|Asc

Also, i have heard of replacing studs every time you take the head off, is this true?? Do i absolutely need to do studs?

 

The cylinder head bolts that came on the engine originally are torque to yield, TTY. They can be torqued once, and then are not reusable. Period. The best budget bargain is to buy a head bolt kit, which will have the TTY bolts gaskets, etc..
The best cyl head fastener is the ARP head studs. They can be used over again and again, but need to be torqued five cycles until they are correctly stretched. Mo money!

I personally would not take a pair of modular heads to a shop that did not specialize in modular heads, at least heads, and have a very good reputation nationally. $ 400 is dirt cheap, but you get what you pay for.

Your valves can be resurfaced , ground and lapped. You have the springs, so that sounds OK.

 

Never heard of a port job taking away torque.
Yes a port job will give you more HP then torque but taking away torque. I don't think so.

Phil

 

so new valves nessasary too?

 

or can i have the resurved and seated aswell? All they said is it would be a better seel.

 

OK so could i go with these bolts? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FEL-ES72798/

And than, phil, $110 shipped via paypal and you have yourself a deal!

I still need to know what size valves i should get, i posted a link from summitracing.com , so any help would be awesome. As usual, i am worried about this because of course i want it done right with no complications. I already have $700 between cams and valve springs, than i need valves studs and bolts and valve job from a head shop so its going to round off over a grand. So this is where i really need your guy's help. Thanks!

 

is the timing chain supposed to be this loose?



This is the drivers side, all nice and tight



And the passanger side top was loose as a goose...on the top part tho. The bottom was tight same with the other side. Is this right?...Someone may have tried doing a timing chain themselves before i owned the motor? I have no idea...

 

How mane miles are on that motor? They may be a little stretched.

I have my stock chains and guides with about 15000 miles on them if ya want to replace yours.

Phil

 

80k or so...How much? Is that all i need for my application? As far as them holding up?

 

If they are steel i guess it doesnt matter. What would you throw them into the price with the studs for phil? I found a pair for $40 new carpartswholesale.com $140 shipped?

 

Oh new question? Where am i supposed to be able to rent the crankshaft and camshaft holding tools? and the camshaft synchnoizer tool? I called a motor build shop cylinder head shop ford dealerships and repair centers, autoparts stores. Nobody. Only found them all online for $300 total...

 

I think there's a cheat for that lol. Not sure what to search for,- maybe 4.6L / 5.4L Cam Swap procedure ? Head Swap ? Idunno, but I'm pretty sure you can get around it-maybe not as easy. - Someone will know.

Lookup Timing chain slop lol. I know there's info on this site.

I guess you can paint them, but getting the tool is best (just looking real quick) - I looked up Timing Chain Slop = Look at post #10 for the procedure / rest of the thread for tips -

https://www.f150online.com/forums/v8...king-tips.html

 

the tool for holding the cams is most DEFINITALLY required...When i took the drivers side chain off the dang thing recoiled and spun to where all the valves are closed for some reason? Thought there was going to be damage but i took the head off and everything looks OK! I made my own markings on the timing chain guides with a little razor. I made little tiny gashes, enough for me to be able to line the cams back up. But i will need the camshaft holding tool that even Ford cannot provide me. I do not know what to do at this point. So out of all these guys with patriot heads and nobody has done this before?? HA what the heak...Has that Built54 guy done a headswap before?

 

NO.
The chains are 40 a piece! This is one chain! http://cpwstore.carpartswholesale.co...4L/CTC391.html
There is no sense in replacing the chains without replacing the guides! The guides are plastic and ware more then the chain.:lol
I was trying to help you out but I'm not giving parts away!
This guy is selling head studs for 150 and hes missing one! And mine has no miles on them.
http://www.nloc.net/classifieds/show...ct/12384/cat/7
Timing parts.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/M...keyword=timing chains

Phil

 

Yes he has! And should be able to help you.
He has swapped heads and rebuilt his motor a couple times.

I have never done it myself.

Phil