Anyone have any suggestions in unbolting it off the exhaust manifold? Its in a super tricky spot. I was thinking about taking the left wheel off and attacking it from that angle? good idea? its rusty too, so plenty of penetrating oil is going to be needed. Whats the best length of wrench to use?

 

I've used a crowsfoot on the end of a long extension and a breaker bar.

 

thanks man!
a few questions:

what size crowsfoot did you use? I don't want to buy a set.

How long was your extension?

crazy question, it turns clockwise/counter to remove the top bolt?

Do I have to unfasten the bottom bolt to remove the pipe?

 

Your going to have fun, mine came out - in two pieces. Why does it have to come off ?

Not sure how you would implement a Crows Foot ? You might want to grab a Rabbit's Foot for luck.

Well, here's what you have -







You'll need a good size Crescent Wrench (or pipe wrench before your thru lol) and a cheater bar. That reducer bushing is a special type that Ford doesn't sell, so treat it like Gold. Mine busted in two, -luckily, a user on this site found one for me at a salvage yard. The bushing socket size is a 24mm.

BTW- No fancy threads,- Righty Tighty/ Lefty Lucy. - No bolts either,- One nut/One threaded sleeve fitting - 2 hoses. Your going to need a Torch or at-least MAP gas to assist with expanding and countering the rust properties locking it together there. - it will go allot easier. The Top nut needs no assist. - Just a big Crescent and a whole lottuh ***(Cheater Bar). Once she breaks loose, shell spin off the rest of the way by hand.

Good Luck, -have fun

 

JBrew, thanks for the response and pictures! i must remove the pipe so i can access the left valve cover to change out the lash adjusters.

So all I need is an adjustable wrench and a cheater bar, cool.

Did you remove the left wheel and access the bolt from that angle?

 

Yea, - Thought you might know that already,- that's why I didn't say.. But Yea, the wheel and inner Fender well skirt.

BTW - Sometimes their loose enough on bottom to begin with, you can remove the top nut, then spin the pipe away from valve cover enough to remove the cover. Believe or not, I've seen some pretty rusty manifold/EGR ports that still spun inside. Look above @ the pic I posted and you can visualize why some spin. You can disconnect the top and heat the bottom and she should spin for sure. Not advising you to do it this way, It's always better to remove it properly, but if you run into problems - heat it first.

 

You're awesome. thanks man.

I'm just asking all my questions before I touch the motor. More dumb questions to follow.

 

No problem.