Spark Plug Change Went Flawlessly

Old May 24, 2009 | 11:40 PM
  #1  
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Spark Plug Change Went Flawlessly

Just wanted to give some advice to the others that are about to change there spark plugs on the 04'+ 5.4L.

Mine is an 07' F-150 with only 33k on the ticker. I have been having an intermittent missing problem, so I decided to change all 8 spark plugs and COP's. I used all Motorcraft parts. NONE of the old plugs broke, but they sure did scream while coming out. I allowed the penetrating fluid to soak for about an hour all together, but would tighten and loosen the plugs about 1/4 turn every 15 minutes or so to make sure it was working in.

This is all of the tools that I needed to do the job...


This is the penetrating fluid that has always worked for me in the past and it work perfectly this time... Also, use a piece of hose to get the fluid where it's needed...


All the plugs were relatively easy to get to, except the rear passenger side plug. To get to that one I had to remove the PCM from the firewall. This was the only plug that I needed a universal joint for...




After I pulled all the plugs, I attached a piece oh hose to my shop-vac with some duct tape and stuffed the hose into the spark plug holes and vacuumed out all the penetrating fluid out of the combustion chambers.


I looked everywhere for the Nickle anti-seize, no store around here had it. I had to go with the next best thing, regular anti-seize...


I used a piece of hose to lower the new plugs into the holes and start the threads...


Well here are the old plugs, they only have 33k miles on them but the truck now runs so much better and smoother with the new ones.


I was worried about them breaking, I purchased 3/8 all thread and tap, and the Lisle 65600, just in case... I guess I have to return it tomorrow
I just wish I took more pictures and better angles...
 
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Old May 24, 2009 | 11:47 PM
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Nice, I like hearing the success stories. Nice tips with the hoses also

Congrats
 
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Old May 25, 2009 | 12:25 AM
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Good job!! I was wondering what the heck the hose was for in the first picture, till I scrolled down. That is actually a good idea.
 
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Old May 25, 2009 | 01:25 AM
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Do you mind explaining what all those tools are? I can get most of them at Lowe's or Home depot right? I'm looking at spending...?

I really need to suck it up and knock this out.
 
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Old May 25, 2009 | 05:59 AM
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Awesome!
 
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Old May 25, 2009 | 08:11 AM
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Success! Congrats!
 
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Old May 25, 2009 | 09:28 AM
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Well good, glad to see a few success stories about this problem.

PS What's up with all the "Thank You" sigs I'm seeing in here?
 
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Old May 25, 2009 | 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by 4.6 Punisher
Well good, glad to see a few success stories about this problem.

PS What's up with all the "Thank You" sigs I'm seeing in here?


https://www.f150online.com/forums/ge...orial-day.html
 
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Old May 25, 2009 | 11:42 AM
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From: Round Rock, TX
Originally Posted by LovetheTide
Do you mind explaining what all those tools are? I can get most of them at Lowe's or Home depot right? I'm looking at spending...?

I really need to suck it up and knock this out.
I did all the work with the engine WARM...I did all the plugs on the same head first then started the engine to warm back up the other head as it had cooled down.

-- 1/4" drive ratchet with various extensions and a universal joint, 8mm socket, I used this to remove the bolts holding the COP in place.

-- 3/8" drive standard ratchet, 3/8" drive flex head ratchet, various extensions, a universal joint, 9/16" deep socket (for the spark plugs), 10mm socket (for removing the PCM from the firewall).

-- 3/8" torque wrench, torque down the new spark plugs to 25 ft/lbs.

-- One of those magnetic telescopic sticks to grab the COP bolts and to pull the spark plug out of the hole after unscrewing...

-- Nickle anti-seize...if you can find it anywhere...I used regular anti-seize.

-- Dielectric grease...to squirt in the boots of the new COP's (I installed new COP's at the same time as the plugs).

-- I used a 10' piece of 3/8" clear vinyl hose that I got from Home Depot, I cut about a foot off and used it to extend the little red hose that came on the penetrating fluid and to hold the spark plug to lower into the hole and start the threads. The other 9' I used to duct tape to the hose on my shop-vac and used it to suck the excess fluid out of the combustion chamber.

-- Penetrating fluid...I used PB Blaster, This stuff has always worked great for me.

-- A flash light...very important...about 3 hours and a couple of beers...
 

Last edited by PhqChevys; May 25, 2009 at 11:49 AM.
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Old May 25, 2009 | 11:45 AM
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Shiate, somehow I didn't connect the dots.
 
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Old May 25, 2009 | 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Wade06XLT
Success! Congrats!
,,,
 

Last edited by garebel; May 25, 2009 at 05:11 PM.
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Old May 25, 2009 | 12:51 PM
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WooHoo another success story..........
 
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Old May 25, 2009 | 12:58 PM
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I only have 5 grand on the clock, but I'm going to remove my plugs and wires while they're new and still easily removable just to coat them with anti-seize compound and dielectric grease. I did this to my wifes 2007 V8 Explorer with no side effects thus far. Of course, I haven't had to change anything yet. I'm sure I'll mention it here when the time comes.
 
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Old May 25, 2009 | 01:45 PM
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I've seen recommendations, for Some say to use the anti seize, and Some say not. am I getting two different engines confused here, I don't own either of the engines I've seen quoted about. I just want to be up to date on the issue.
My stepson was recently looking at the one with the cam phasers and spark plug issues, I kinda steered him away because of what I've read here.

So what is the consensus on the anti seize?
 
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Old May 25, 2009 | 02:21 PM
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Firemedic, you may have the new heads in your 08 - if so, don't bother pulling the plugs. Go ahead and pull the easiest one to check, if it looks like a conventional plug you have the new heads. I believe if you have brown cops, they are the new heads, black cops, the old heads.

Tumba, the only plugs that it's MANDATORY to use antiseize on are the old style 3 valve - and you apply it to the barrel as shown in the pic, not the threads. It's optional in conventional 8 thread heads and not recommended on 4 thread heads.
 
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