I'm going to try to attach a couple of pics, but found that when I unplug the vac hose that goes into the top of the EGR and apply throttle it does not bog out, but if I leave it plugged in and apply throttle the engine acts like it has excessive load and bogs out.

I can not get my pics to show from my myspace page as I do not have image hosting anywhere else. But it is the vac hose that plugs into the EGR and runs to what appears to be a service point beside the TB.

 

If the idle drops and almost stalls, the passages are clean enough. After all, that is what you are checking for on a "suck test", right.

 

Let's do this - clear your codes and drive it a bit, see if the CEL comes on, see what codes get set this time.

 

I have driven it about 250 miles since resetting the computer. Yesterday the CEL would flash but not stay on constant and it would go back off shortly after it started to flash. I live in a region that has some hills and when going up these the truck would bog down and it would cause it to 'miss' and that is when the CEL would start to flash, once I got on the downward slope it would level out and run more smoothly and the CEL would stop.

Yesterday just as a test I used one hand to pull that hose off the EGR and the other had to hold throttle open and then I cycled putting the hose back on and off the EGR and the engine would change state.

 

A flashing CEL without setting a hard code is a misfire. Please check your codes again and see if any EGR-related or lean codes have reappeared.

 

Today I unhooked the vac line to the egr and drove around for a while. It drove much better for about 15 miles then started acting the exact same way so I hooked it back up and then my CEL came back on. The only code that showed up was p0401 EGR. No other codes came in.

The COP I had ordered showed up today, do those need to be grounded in order to work correct? As in the metal gromet where the bolt goes has to be there for some type of grounding purpose or is it just for added strength? As stated earlier in posts that seemed to upset some people after glc stated I may need to do a complete tune-up including plugs and COP, one COP has no metal gromet in it and has a crack where the bolt goes through.

 

That is definitely pointing to the DPFE. At this point, I would replace it - and use a Motorcraft part, not an aftermarket.

 

- Well that was my impression lol. So you don't have to go thru the hassle of taking it apart and cleaning the ports.

Actually, it confirms all 3 - Diaphragm, valve operation and passageway

Then that's it -Test Over, as far as that goes.

DPFE for the 401's - Or she's leaking, somewhere

 

Damn....! Thanks man.

I didn't know that, but I know who to talk to when I have a computer problem, -that's for sure.

 

PO401 Is NOT a run-ability DTC. Doesn't noticeably effect operation during the drive cyle.


Those are bushings,-not grounds. The bolts need to be torqued lightly so that the coils move freely (about 1" each way). You need them, -without a bushing to ride on, you'll be shearing the windings inside the coil - that's with a direct bolt down.

Why don't you fix your truck right? Do you know how much time this is going to cost you doing work this way? It NEVER pays ...NEVER.

Just replace the plugs with MOTORCRAFT Plugs and update ALL the freakin coils if your having problems. Oh - LEAVE YOUR EGR VALVE ALONE

 

Wether it is, or is not a run-ability DTC, or will not noticeably effect operation during a drive cycle, I drove my vehicle and know that it did run differently. Until you come and drive this thing and tell me what exactly to replace do not tell me that it didn't effect the way it ran. It did not miss or bog down going up hills as it did before with the vac line hooked up.
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I appreciate your help with these matters and understanding that glc trust you and has learned much from you I will listen. As I have stated before I do not know about the COP setup and have only dealt with pushrod motors with a distributor and remotely mounted single coil in the past.

I am also going to be purchasing a set of plugs and COPs this week. If it is ok to post has anyone used the new SOS COP's from Performance Distributor yet? A guy I work with just done a tune up on his dodge 2500 with 360 and used the performance kit from them and noticed improved gas mileage and even said power seemed better. Before spending money on COP's and not wanting to mess with it much after doing this once I want to put something in that will give this heavy SUV the best mileage I can as it is going to be my primary vehicle.
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I will also pick up one of these DPFE's and replace that as well.

Thanks for the help and I will post up again when I replace these items and let you know what it did/did not do for the vehicle.

 

OK sounds like you are starting to listen some. First off you did buy the Motorcraft DPFE right? Second buy Motorcraft platinum sparkplugs. Third buy the COP's from Global or Uneek Automotive on e-bay. I believe you bought one already why not buy a whole set. They are reasonably price and they come with an excellent warranty. The Globals are lifetime not sure if the Uneeks are but if you don't believe me try using the search function, there are a load of threads on this subject. Read up and listen to the many voices of reason the buddy that you referenced has a Dodge big difference. All of the old high performance names are not always the best way. Believe me I have learned so much from these guys like jbrew and glc and many others and not to date myself but I've been working on my own vechiles for many years and I would never attempt to say I know it all but I will testify I know there is bunch of guys on this forum, and can bet you I could find out, and definately know the one's to trust, two of the best one have tried to direct you already. Hang in there, pay attention, read, listen, learn. Patience Grasshopper.

Saw another cop post and was reminded if it hasn't been mentioned definately use dielectric grease on the cop boots.

 

I have not purchased a DPFE at this time, but will be buying a Motorcraft one as stated in the above posts. Will buy my plugs at the same time most likely. I have worked on my own vehicles for many years as well, but they have been 5.0 mustangs and 5.0/5.7 camaros. Never messed with the newer more touchy Modular motors, just stoneage pushrods that you can tweek without having to get into the computer.

I did just buy one COP from Global last week and didn't want to shell out the $70 for the whole set at that time, it only cost me $16.50 to replace the one that looked like it was not very good, looked like original motorcraft that came in the truck 250k ago. I will however buy a set next week and replace them all.

Thanks for all the help and as stated I will post what I get as a result from this.

 

Hey! Can I borrow these

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BTW- This dude is really confused/hard to instruct/afraid to learn from another.

So, I agree,- best way is thru the search bar. These kind may fear this less, I guess.?? Hell Iduno.. - Great post nut!

 

Sure, I have four tech's (young tech's) that work for me and believe me the patience part works both ways. The dated part and pushrod motors reminded me of working on some 70's era natural gas 4 cyls driving refigeration compressors and when the manufacturer closed up bankrupt (possible future of Chrysler/GM) we figured out that most of the same parts could be harvested from a 74 Chevy Vega. So they were worth something after all.

I really wished they had a smilie crashing his head into a wall.