Why Do Coil Packs Go Out So Much
#16
#17
#18
Yes the rail pulls off. O-rings top/bottom hold injectors in place, injectors just pull from origin. Some injectors remain attached to the rail, -others will remain in the manifold. Thro some rags down around the injectors/coils before removing the rail to catch the remaining petrol.
You can use the injector o-rings again or purchase JUST the o-rings from any 3rd party supplier.
Last edited by jbrew; 05-02-2009 at 04:36 PM.
#19
Fuel Rail pulled and replaced
Thanks again Jbrew. I pulled the rail and replaced it. I had to fish for an O-ring, but was able to recover it (no such luck with my 7mm socket that was lost in the "V"). Two of the O-rings stuck in the rail cups.
Anyway. I put the one new coil plug that I had in #7 (still misfires) and will replace the other 7 when the Global Automotive parts arrive.
You guys have been a great help. I expect that I will get the other quirks in my "new" truck worked out over the next few weeks. This one is the most serious, but at least I have a good idea on the fix.
Next up... pull the instrument cluster and find the intermittent odometer problem. Hopefully it is a cold solder joint or some other visual electrical problem.
Anyway. I put the one new coil plug that I had in #7 (still misfires) and will replace the other 7 when the Global Automotive parts arrive.
You guys have been a great help. I expect that I will get the other quirks in my "new" truck worked out over the next few weeks. This one is the most serious, but at least I have a good idea on the fix.
Next up... pull the instrument cluster and find the intermittent odometer problem. Hopefully it is a cold solder joint or some other visual electrical problem.
#20
Thanks again Jbrew. I pulled the rail and replaced it. I had to fish for an O-ring, but was able to recover it (no such luck with my 7mm socket that was lost in the "V"). Two of the O-rings stuck in the rail cups.
Anyway. I put the one new coil plug that I had in #7 (still misfires) and will replace the other 7 when the Global Automotive parts arrive.
You guys have been a great help. I expect that I will get the other quirks in my "new" truck worked out over the next few weeks. This one is the most serious, but at least I have a good idea on the fix.
Next up... pull the instrument cluster and find the intermittent odometer problem. Hopefully it is a cold solder joint or some other visual electrical problem.
Anyway. I put the one new coil plug that I had in #7 (still misfires) and will replace the other 7 when the Global Automotive parts arrive.
You guys have been a great help. I expect that I will get the other quirks in my "new" truck worked out over the next few weeks. This one is the most serious, but at least I have a good idea on the fix.
Next up... pull the instrument cluster and find the intermittent odometer problem. Hopefully it is a cold solder joint or some other visual electrical problem.
#22
Thanks again Jbrew. I pulled the rail and replaced it. I had to fish for an O-ring, but was able to recover it (no such luck with my 7mm socket that was lost in the "V"). Two of the O-rings stuck in the rail cups.
Anyway. I put the one new coil plug that I had in #7 (still misfires) and will replace the other 7 when the Global Automotive parts arrive.
You guys have been a great help. I expect that I will get the other quirks in my "new" truck worked out over the next few weeks. This one is the most serious, but at least I have a good idea on the fix.
Next up... pull the instrument cluster and find the intermittent odometer problem. Hopefully it is a cold solder joint or some other visual electrical problem.
Anyway. I put the one new coil plug that I had in #7 (still misfires) and will replace the other 7 when the Global Automotive parts arrive.
You guys have been a great help. I expect that I will get the other quirks in my "new" truck worked out over the next few weeks. This one is the most serious, but at least I have a good idea on the fix.
Next up... pull the instrument cluster and find the intermittent odometer problem. Hopefully it is a cold solder joint or some other visual electrical problem.
#23
yea, -your a quick learner - the year has nothing to do with it. the 5four never had them . Try to learn something kid, say what you mean. it wasn't a misunderstanding . you just don't know what your taking about , -period. But that's no big deal right?
Last edited by Bluejay; 05-06-2009 at 12:40 PM. Reason: name calling
#25
Why do COPs fail?
So, I have a misfiring 4.6 l V8, a long trip planned for this week, and my new COPs won't be here in time to make the change. Bouncing around for 16 hours of drive time was going to be extremely aggravating, so I decided to see if I could fix the old coils. All but two are stock (104 kmi). The previous/original owner was having misfire problems. He did all of the service at the dealer, which changed two of the COPS, all of the spark plugs, fuel filter, and air filter, but did not fully resolved the problem completely. They only changed the coils that caused service codes.
The result of my repair work - - COPs Fixed.
Reliable electrical connections require gas-tight contact points, good strain relief, moisture seals, and little or no relative movement between the surfaces. Connectors all over the vehicle are carefully designed to provide these conditions, except COPs.
The spring in the boot presses over a spade in the body of the coil. When examining the old COPs I found:
- corrosion and pitting on the spades
- slight abrasion on the springs
- discoloration on the springs at the contact points
- ill fitting springs on the spades
I pulled all of the coils, removed the boots and springs, de-oxidized the spades, cleaned the springs, tightened a couple of loose springs, and now the engine runs smooth.
The connection between the spade and spring is not relieved from motor vibration. The mass of the spring is left to rattle around in the rubber boot, causing relative movement between the spring and spade surfaces. The relative movement will abrades contact surfaces and causes microfractures of the surface platings. The boot is also not entirely from moisture intrusion, which only accelerates the corrosion. The resulting oxide layer, vibration, and temp changes cause intermittent high resistance connections.
A crimped connection between coil and boot spring would have been a more reliable design than just slipping a spring over the spade.
My cleaning effort does not address the root cause of the problem, so I expect to replace the coils when they arrive. I also have less respect for the Ford technicians that attempted to fix this problem on several occasions. They likely have misfire complaints on a regular basis and should have a handle on the required repairs.
The result of my repair work - - COPs Fixed.
Reliable electrical connections require gas-tight contact points, good strain relief, moisture seals, and little or no relative movement between the surfaces. Connectors all over the vehicle are carefully designed to provide these conditions, except COPs.
The spring in the boot presses over a spade in the body of the coil. When examining the old COPs I found:
- corrosion and pitting on the spades
- slight abrasion on the springs
- discoloration on the springs at the contact points
- ill fitting springs on the spades
I pulled all of the coils, removed the boots and springs, de-oxidized the spades, cleaned the springs, tightened a couple of loose springs, and now the engine runs smooth.
The connection between the spade and spring is not relieved from motor vibration. The mass of the spring is left to rattle around in the rubber boot, causing relative movement between the spring and spade surfaces. The relative movement will abrades contact surfaces and causes microfractures of the surface platings. The boot is also not entirely from moisture intrusion, which only accelerates the corrosion. The resulting oxide layer, vibration, and temp changes cause intermittent high resistance connections.
A crimped connection between coil and boot spring would have been a more reliable design than just slipping a spring over the spade.
My cleaning effort does not address the root cause of the problem, so I expect to replace the coils when they arrive. I also have less respect for the Ford technicians that attempted to fix this problem on several occasions. They likely have misfire complaints on a regular basis and should have a handle on the required repairs.
#26
Wow, I can tell you that most mechanics would not have been that dilligent. It has been recomemnded many times is to use dielectric grease on the COP's boots to protect from missfires and mosture not to mention protecting from corrosion. With the boots removed coat the inside and outside especially contact surfaces with the dielectric grease. Not all mechanics do this as I have pull them on one of our service vans that the dealership replaced the cop's and they didn't grease them either. Since you've cleaned the old ones grease them up and put them back in the box and keep them for spares. Ya never know when someone you know might need one.
#27
So I searched eBay for DG511 for my 2004 5.43v, do I want the Motorcrafts or some other brand? If some other brand, what is that brand and does anyone know which seller on eBay sells the COPs that you guys recommend? Thanks.
P.S. This is all to fix a misfire that could have been easily removed if my wife would have just let me just get the 2009 Supercrew I picked out while talking to the service writer..
P.S. This is all to fix a misfire that could have been easily removed if my wife would have just let me just get the 2009 Supercrew I picked out while talking to the service writer..