The $500 for plug change is pretty consistant. I was quoted $526 from the Ford dealer here in MD for my 2005 5.4L 3V. Not the best news that I received today.

 

No, that's not consistent lol. - Go somewhere else, I posted the rate earlier. Yours is more than double right from the get go. Does that include plugs ? Or, is your cost of living about double from Michigan's...I doubt it.

The only difference in the 3 valve is the notation. The charge should be real close to $250 labor (not including plugs).

The notation basically reads - add $80 per broken plug. It's possible it may add up around $1000 if all break, but initially , it isn't suppose to start out that way.

You need to read this entire thread , then use the search bar. Oh just pay the $500, if that works for you ?

 

$526 for a 3V including plugs and miscellaneous BS fees doesn't sound out of line in a $100 plus labor rate area.

 

JBrew, You're right. I probably cannot properly call a couple of Ford Dealers, ask for the service department, and inquire about the estimate for changing the plugs in my particular make, model, and year vehicle. Does "Senior Member" = the most wise, or just been registered the longest? Or does it entitle you to be condescending and judgemental? I was just reporting what my two closest Ford dealers quoted. If you have found that service for $250then you have found a good deal. Congrats.

 

Are you okay? All I did is look up Labor Charges. = 2.6 - 2.9 hrs and draw from past experiences. It's actual data, that's what should interest you. The Manufacturers Warranty has approved 2.2 hrs in labor. I'm not sure how or if this figures into the average times charged ? I do know that the average labor charge base is @ $250 for a straight up plug change. This figure is from the many who have posted in the past.

Yea, I guess THAT does makes me the wiser in this case , if you want to call it that lol. Honestly, it's about being informed, that's it. So, your gonna have to learn how to deal with that better. The wiser would use THAT information as a benefit - for a personal gainer. Verses flaming reasons, which is pretty much unproductive on your end there.

BTW - I'm not the individual looking to get my plugs changed here. In fact , I never paid for a plug change in my life lol. I'm reporting for YOUR benefit, not mine, - whatsoever. Get it straight or it will cost yuh. Condescending and judgmental ? We are all entitled from day one, it's a choice thing;-wake up man..

 

The first time I went to change mine I looked at it for a while and decided against it. It seemed a little intimidating. Everything seems so packed in there. The next time, I just started taking things off (the things that are recommended of course, i.e., top cover, brackets, fuel rails, etc.) and it seemed to progress pretty well. I think I actually did one side one day and the other the next. My truck is a 1999 F-150 5.4 V8. Here are a few tips from what I remember...

1. Read the threads for this subject concerning the proper tools. Check up on the anti-seize for the threads. Seems like some people say yes while others say no. I think I may have put a small amount. Also check out the di-electric grease for the coil boots. I think there is one particular metric knuckle socket that makes life easier. Other than that I think you just need a standard socket set.

2. Set aside plenty of time. Don't start on a Sunday afternoon and think you are going to finish within a few hours, at least not your first time. Some people on here claim to be able to do it in an hour or less, but I guarantee it will take longer your first time.

3. There was so much mud packed into the socket chambers that I spent alot of time chipping it away and vacuuming it out. My truck spends quite a bit of time in the mud, so this may or may not be a problem with yours. A mirror is good to have so that you can verify clean chambers before removing the plugs. Another good reason to do it yourself. I doubt the dealer will spend much time cleaning out the chambers. Anything not cleaned out will fall into the engine when the plugs are removed.

4. While you are at it you should probably replace the coil-over-plugs. You can find the sets on EBay for about $120, or at least you could a ways back.

5. If you only have 78k on the engine, you might want to wait until about 100k. I replaced mine at 100k, along with the coil-over-plugs, and honestly didn't notice much change in performance.

Good luck, if you haven't already done it. Sorry, I didn't read through all of the comments.

 

would you please list the names of the dealerships that quoted this?

 

my question is what does everyone use to reach the #3,4/#7,8 plugs? even with a step stool, and length half my body on the engine, I can barely reach the back. I'm short, but not that short.

 

i'm 5' 11" and i just stand on the tire or bumper and reach back there with a ratchet, extension, socket and sometimes i use a swivel.

 

my generation has a plastic painted cover that would get crushed and get completely scratched if I used my bumper as a step.

you must be more agile/fit then me cause after more then 10 minutes standing on the tire would absolutely kill my legs and back.

 

I was thinking some kind of scaffolding would be good for working on these cab forward style designs. considering quarter of the engine is under the windshield, you'll spend most of the time laying down.

 

JBREW,

Sorry for the snotty response. I was ticked that day and frustrated. The dealer in questions is Plaza Ford in Bel Air, MD. They certainly did not appear willing to haggle on the quoted price. And, the kicker was if they broke a plug or the head in the removal, I would be on the hook for more labor charges to get the broken plyg out. You would think Ford would do something about that. My local garage that I trust and go to to for everyday stuff wouldn't touch the plugs due to the complications published in the TSBs.

 

Prince Frederick Ford (southern MD) quoted $480 if they all come out and stated that it could go up to $2K if they start breaking off. This is a frustrating situation. I will probably get the removal tool for broken plugs, a 12 pack of cold ones and set aside a Saturday to do the job following the tsb.

 

No problem, Yea, that's a raw deal the manufacturer stuck you 3 valve owners with - Ticks me off as well. Sounds like some are charging for the TSB removal process. It's more involved.

 

i've done a plug change to my buddy's 5.4 3v engine and it took me the whole weekend. most of them broke, which happens to be why it took the whole weekend. i recommend getting more than just a 12 pack. at least a fridge full