Sorry if this has been discussed already. I've searched and read but couldn't find my answer.

2004 5.4L with 138k

For the past few weeks, I've had to turn the key a few times before the engine would fire up. Once started, it runs fine. When it doesn't start it DOES crank. Getting plenty of juice to the starter.

Recently I've had to crank it more and more before it fires up. It's black or white. Either it fires right up (on the 4th try, for instance) or it just cranks. There's no in between. Once started - no problems.

I've been under the truck while someone else turns the key, and I hear a high pitched whine followed by a chirp from the fuel pump. I can't say what sounds different about this from when it will/won't start because now I can't get it to start at all.

If I could just get it started once, I could get it to a shop, but I hate having to get it towed. Thanks for any help.

 

it cranks but no start at all now? it could be a plugged fuel filter. are you using the factory key? maybe check the fuel pressure? when was the last time the fuel filter was changed?

 

Don't know when the filter was changed last. Is it easy to get to? That would be a cheap and easy fix if that's what it is. Has anyone posted a guide for changing it? Thanks.

 

its pretty easy to do. you'll need the fuel filter/line release tool. you just slide the tool into the inlet and outlet fuel lines and pull the lines off the filter.

but are you using the factory key? if its one of the keys made by walmart, or lowes, etc, then it wont have the chip in it to communicate with the computer and will keep the pump shut down.

 

I have had this same problem for about a week now. Today it was real bad. Puttin in a news fuel pump friday, Ill let you know if it does the trick.

 

Yes, factory key.
Thanks for the help. I'll try the filter this weekend. Where can I get that tool?

 

As a reference for those looking to do this, I found this guide:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/i...0_Pickups.html
Perhaps it will help the next person. I haven't tried it yet, but I'll give you an update when I do. Thanks again. Wish me luck.

 

autozone, advance, napa, sears, etc. most places have them. the link in your other post gives you the size you'll need(5/16). but make sure you dont pull on the filter with any of the hoses hooked up still. i think thats what i accidently did last time i changed my fuel filter. spent about an hour trying to get the inlet end off and the retainer clip had to be cut and twisted out and it was just a nightmare.

 

Well, time for an update. Got the filter off. What a struggle. Not a fan of that tool at all. But it's off and new filter is in. Turned the key from off to on several times to prime the fuel line. I was hopeful this had done the trick because the sound from the fuel pump was a little different - no more chirp at the end. Finally time for the test. Turned the key all the way...starter spins...but no start. Same problem, I'm afraid.

It sounds like the starter is spinning but not engaging. There is a distinct mechanical/electrical whir with a slight grinding noise at the end. Tried several more times, but no go. It doesn't sound like the engine is turning at all, just the starter. Any ideas.

 

One more piece of info, in case it matters. When this problem first started, I shifted out of park into drive and back, and it fired up on the next try. Each time after that I would have to do that a few times more and more before it would start. This may be completely unrelated, but I thought I would mention it. Now I'm not sure it mattered at all. Maybe it was going to start on the 5th try whether I shifted in and out of gear or not.

 

so its makes a grinding sound while cranking? and it sounds like only the starter is spinning but the engine isnt? sounds like it could be the starter or the flexplate. take a long rachet or breaker bar with a socket to fit the crank bolt and turn the crank about an 1/8th turn. and then see if the motor will turn over. if it does then you'll need a new flexplate. if not then i think its gonna be the starter.

 

Concur with "MattsFord". However on the starter you may have been affected by and oil leak from the header covers.

I've seen Ford Engines similar to your with this problem:
Slow oil leak from the headers contaminates the starter's engagement solenoid. In the Ford Starter that cylinder on top is an engagement solenoid which pulls that starter's ratchet pawl out to engage the fly-wheel. At times oil dripping down from the head covers contaminates that solenoid piston causing the rotator to spin; without engaging the fly-wheel.
I have had a chance to fix this problem with out replacement of the starter. That is if the starter initally was in good condition.
First you'll need to remove the starter. Remove the solenoid piston from the starter body.
Use only "Electrical Contact Cleaner" to spray out the solenoid piston. Do not use Throttle Body or Carburetor Cleaner to clean electrical parts. It wouldn't hurt to spray out the starter's commutator and brushes that are internal to the starter body. The brushes make contact with and supply power to the rotator permitting it to spin. Clean the threads, and nuts on the starter's electrical contacts; use Electrical Contact Cleaner, and a non-ferrous (brass) wire brush to clean the copper threads, and nuts.
Re-assemble the solenoid and starter body.
If you want you can take the finished starter to an Auto-Zone or similar store and have them bench test the cleaned starter for you. It should be able to freely ratchet, and engage when operating.
Before re-installing the starter check above the starter mounting for any oil leak. This should be re-mediated before replacing the starter; or you will just have the same problem later. If this was the source of the contamination replace the Header Cover gasket in addition to a line of Silicone RTV adhesive (black formula). This should resolve most of these starter problems, and possibly a major cause of future starter problems.
Re install the starter after cleaning the battery cable, washer, and all electrical contacts with a Brass Wire Brush and Electrical Contact Cleaner. Finally I like to take a can of "Clear" polystyrene spray paint and coat all finished connections. This not only keeps air, but all moisture from the contacts and prevents contamination.
Has worked, hope it works for you.
Have a nice weekend, and Easter.

 

Update:

Well, it was the starter. Pulled the starter. Teeth looked ok. Replaced. Problem solved. Thanks for everyone's input. Hope this helps someone in the future.