I know there are a lot of threads on this issue and have been searching all morning without any luck finding answers to all of my questions...

I have 4 broken plugs in my truck....
1 has complete porcelain but no electrode (tried to grab the porcelain with a stud remover to pull it out but broke the electrode)
1 has complete porcelain and the electrode complete
2 are broken off at the sleeve

I have read 2 methods for removing the porcelain, one is to break it out and vacuum the mess and the other is to push it down into the electrode to give clearance for the puller....which is better?

Nickel anti-seize...all I can find is copper and aluminum. Will they work? If not, where can I find nickel?

If the heads need to come off, specifically why does the motor need to come out?

I've also read that the motor can be turned over to use the compression to blow them out. I have the computer out to gain access to number 4, will it hurt anything to turn it over by bumping the starter with the computer out?

 

I can't answer all your questions, but DO NOT TURN the motor over. Yes, you must use nickel anti sieze, it's the only one that will stand up to the heat. The Ford dealer should have it if a parts store doesn't. Have you made one of the extraction tools and used that? Have you tried using a glue to stick to the porcelain?

 

If your not absolutely confident in your wrenching capabilities take it to the dealer. There are times when having a fully trained tech work on your machine saves you money this is probably one of them for you. Call the dealers in your area and ask how they would remove them. They can do it without removing the head and they should be able to do it for $200 per plug.

 

^^^^^ very good advice!

 

Heard their charging 250 - 275 for an initial plug change service + 90 per broken plug.

 

Bluejay, I was wondering if you could explain the ectraction tool that you asked about making. I'd appreciate it. Thanks!!

 

theres this idea https://www.f150online.com/forums/20...nt-2-86-a.html

 

Thans Matt. Great idea!! Looks like it was 3/8 threaded rod? I was curious what you 'soaked' the plugs with overnight?

Once again, thanks for the idea...

 

I have the Lisle tool ordered, already had the Cal-van extractor for the shield.

I have 4 with the porcelain still in...

2 with porcelain broken at shield and electrode completely removed.
1 with porcelain broken at shield and electrode still in.
1 with porcelain not broken and half of electrode gone.

I am thinking I like the idea of pulling by the porcelain with a screw or other metal object glued into the plug, but havent gotten the right puller.

If it can be at all avoided I really dont think I want to chisel the porcelain out. I just dont want it in the motor. Even though I have the Lisle tool ordered I am really wondering if I like the idea of pushing the porcelain down until it bottoms on the strap.

Nickel anti-sieze is ordered and should be here by tuesday when the tool comes in.

 

Do not turn it over with the computer removed or dont do it to try to force the parts out using engine compression?

Will I run into any issues with the computer? I hooked it back up then the battery to turn the key on to get it in neutral so we could move it back outside.

What are you reffering to with glueing to the porcelain? Are you talking about the cal-van puller that you glue a metal rod or screw inside the porcelain and pull it that way after removing the electrode?

 

No issues with the computer. Just may mess things up using compression to force pices out.

Yes, that is the tool I was refering to with the glue.

 

Does anyone know for sure if that sleeve can be sucked into the motor if it is cranked over?

Lisle tool claims you can push the porcelain down enough to be able to use the extractor. Which tells me the sleeve is held in by a flange in which case it cant be sucked in. The most recent TSB from Ford says to pull the porcelain with the pin tool.

I have the Lisle tool coming, most likely wont use it.....have Napa searching for the pin puller now (Cal-Van 39200)

I think I know what causes this, the TSB says it shouldnt take more than 33 ft lbs to get them out. The ones that are stuck people put more than that on the plug which makes it difficult to keep the socket and extension (s) straight on the plug, it gets put in a bind and breaks. I believe had I used a torque wrench to take them out and continually soak with kroil until 33lbs would get it out they would have all come out in one piece.