I realize that, but there was speculation that Ford was repackaging Kroil and selling it themselves. Regardless, it was in the first TSB and seemed to give good results. If I were going to pull my plugs myself, I would use the Ford stuff first, and if not available, then Kroil. I would not use anything else.

My point was that carb cleaner and PB Blaster is not the right stuff, nor is letting it soak over night. I doubt that helps a whole lot, unless you start all over, with a fresh soaking.

 

Well, when I did mine at 90 thousand I used Aero Kroil, and soaked the crap outta those things, all come out with no problem. I would use Aero Kroil again over the Carb cleaner. Guess it could just come down to luck in the end.

 

PM-3 carb cleaner is not Kroil. The reason they switched from Kroil to carb cleaner is carb cleaner loosens carbon better. Kroil is more like PB Blaster, it's a penetrating oil that works better on corrosion.

 

Well JTE3097 i had already put all the new plugs in but now you got me thinking that i better pull em and check real good to make sure i didn't leave anything in there. An yeah bluejay and glc yall are prolly right, besides the pb blaster i used when i followed the TSB correctly on the first two plugs they came out fine but the engine was cold and i rushed on the last six plugs.

 

Did you coat the ground shield with nickel anti-seize when you installed the new plugs?

 

glc... Well i was but i seen where post said that you should use nickle anti seize and i didn't have any at the house so i didn't. I guess i need to pull em again and hit em with the shop vac again and put some anti seize one them hu?

 

I sure would. No nickel antiseize = stuck plugs again. You HAVE to follow the TSB EXACTLY with that engine. It's a terrible head/plug design.

 

Aight thanks for the info. I will pull em again when i get home and now i just hope i can get that last plug out. It would not be that bad but the one i am having trouble with just so happens to be the back one on the pass. side. I pulled the computer and bracket out and made it alot easier to get to but i am gonna have to get a mirrow and try to get a look at whats the problem.

 

One other thing you can do, as I did when I was unsure if I had a small bit of porcelain left. With all the plugs and coils installed but the one in question. Make sure the hole is clear for the one in question with the coil completely removed and plug completely removed. Start the engine. It will start on 7 cylinders and it will run very rough. I would'nt recommend running over about 60 seconds or so. But the compression should blow any residual porcelain out of the spark plug hole. This is your best bet or ensuring the porcelain is removed after vacuuming. It will also put the piston in a different location for you to be able to vacuum a second time, which will mean your vacuum hose will land on a different spot on the piston.

 

If you do that, disconnect that injector too.

 

Aight thanks for the info i was thinking about that but was not sure if it would work.

 

I may be able to offer some help. I have a 2005 F-150 5.4 3v with 200,000 miles on it. The first time I had the plugs changed; the dealer did it and broke two. Luckily they stuck with there quote and only charged me $250. Labor. When the TSB came out, they told me it would be $700.00 to $5000.00 to do the plugs. I did a lot or research and did it my self and ALL slugs came out clean (no breaking). It took me 3 hours.
Here is how I did it:
First step: I bought three cans of Seafoam and added one to my gas tank. I ran that entire can through before the next step.
Second step: Warm up your motor and with the truck running pull your vacuum line that goes to your brakes. Pour the entire can of Seafoam in and then turn off the motor. Leave it for one hour then start it. It may be hard to start so feather the pedal a little. LOTS of smoke will come out. Let it idle for about 10 min, and then take it for a spin. Repeat with the second can. This will clear out all carbon.
The last thing you do before D-day is spray a little PB blaster down each plug the day before.

Buy the extraction tool just in case but I didn't need to use it and resold it on e-bay. The lisle 65600 is the one I bought for about $80.00 and replace your plugs with the one piece
Champion 7879.
Hope this helps.
Ryno6

 

thanks for the info ryno6.... well i just got home from work and i am about to start working on it tomorrow.. i have been looking at the last stuck plug that i cant get a grip on and it still has the electrode in it and i think maybe that is why i cant get my lisle tool to grip.. i am thinking about trying the epoxy trick. If anyone is in my area (Hattiesburg MS) with some experience i will pay ya good to help me get it out ha ha.