Royal Purple vs. Mobil 1

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Old Dec 5, 2008 | 11:05 PM
  #31  
Labnerd's Avatar
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From: So. Texas
All the oils on the market today are Blends except Amsoil.
That's not true and not even close. And don't post a bunch of Amsoil propaganda for me to pick apart. Their testing is slick ***** crap to begin with. If you want extended oil changes, Amsoil is the only way to go. But for the average user, it's just not cost effective.
Technology moves forward and petroleum oil does not .
Again, you don't have a clue. Dino basestocks have made fabulous advances in the last ten years but the PAOs, like Amsoil, have been static for the last ten years. The reason why so few use it any more is that the Dino based Gp IIIs can duplicate, and in some cases outperform, the PAOs and have fewer issues in the formulations. The Gp IIIs are also far cheaper to produce AND sell.
Royal Purple Failed the test right out of the bottle
RP is the same basestock as most of Amsoils- PAO. They get their PAOs from BP in Houston. Amsoil gets theirs from Mobil. Amsoil and RP are both blenders meaning they make nothing. They just buy the ingredients and mix it up, put it in a bottle and sell it. Amsoils 4 ball bearing test has nothing to do with any environment in the engine.
I would highly recommend you avoid buying oil at Walmart because we all know Walmart does not make oil or any other petroleum company because it is a derivative from crude. These oils have Parriffin and Sulfer which the two make a wax and this is where the Varnish and Sludge begin to form in every engine. When you take your oil cap off and see the brown color that is the varnish.
Most of Walmart oil is repackaged Mobil 5000 oil. Some of it in the northern areas is a Gp III synthetic made by SafetyKleen and some of the other areas it is made by Warren. All are good oils and meet manufacturers specs....which beats the heck out of Amsoil. Amsoil does not have API certification and does not have the API Starburst. Also, do you have any clue what parrifins are? Obviously not if you think it is wax. You might want to do some research outside of Amsoil before making a bunch of false statements on your first post.

We have Amsoil users here and they recognize it for what it is. A good oil for extended oil changes. They don't come here and badger other brands or attempt to sell their products here. If you came here for sales, you need to pay for advertising.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 07:12 AM
  #32  
openclasspro#11's Avatar
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From: North Huntingdon,Pa.
i can speak personally on rp-i race mx bikes ,i was sponsored by them,just because i get a product for free doesn't mean i will endorse it-i know i'm talking motorcycle transmissions,but their 10w40 mc oil in the trannies of my 2 strokes broke down almost instantly,when i did use it in my vehicles with a k&n filter, the oil analysis came back less than stellar,after switching to amsoil,not only did my trannies shift better in my mx race bikes as well as my road race bikes,the analysis were head and shoulders above the ones from rp, even after once a yr oil /filter changes,as a matter of fact,i racked up over a million miles on my personal biz van and last 3 p/u's and wife's last 2 cars,zero engine issues-
 
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 07:42 AM
  #33  
Norm's Avatar
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From: Seabrook,NH
Originally Posted by Amsoil
These oils have Parriffin and Sulfer which the two make a wax and this is where the Varnish and Sludge begin to form in every engine. When you take your oil cap off and see the brown color that is the varnish.
If you can't get your facts and spelling correct it is not in your best interest to come here. Some of Amsoils oils are blends. The XL series is blended to get an API starburst.
I am an Amsoil supporter and personally use the 0w-30 signature series changed once a year but I have only presented facts here not propaganda. Labnerd and others are very educated about oil and will tear you apart. Making your user name Amsoil is just asking for it.

The only thing I disagree with Labnerd on is his opinion that Amsoil's testing is crap. They use industry standard tests and they are the same tests all the oil manufacturers use. I know he doesn't like the 4 ball wear test because ALL the oil companies have used it "incorrectly" but at least they are all on equal footing when Amsoil beats them.

For a great site (yes he is an Amsoil jobber but also an engineer that was a member here and drives Ford trucks) check this one out:
http://www.performanceoiltechnology.com/
 

Last edited by Norm; Dec 6, 2008 at 07:44 AM.
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 08:40 AM
  #34  
primerib's Avatar
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From: Canada
One oil vs another oil comes down to "you" buying into a companies marketing ploys. I personally go with a case lot sale of 5w20 or 30 and run with it. I'm using PP right now only for the sake that it was on sale at Walmart....my truck runs good on dino or syn. When it comes to gear oil though, I only use Redline.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2008 | 07:23 PM
  #35  
pkurek's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Westland, Michigan
yea, run it to full temp, It will burn off any condensation that might have accumulated internally due to temp changes. Also by driving it will help relubricate the drive axles and transfer case. Using a full synthetic is better for it because it will flow quicker through the engine, especially in colder temps. As for becoming acidic, not sure about synthetic oils. I know conventional oil will do it. My opinion, I don't think they do because they are made of syntetic properties, not natural.
 
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