NEED HELP A.S.A.P., failed inspection
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From: Windsor,Ontario,Canada
IAT is the Inlet Air temperature and PID is Parameter Identification Data. What you need to monitor is the inlet air temp so that it goes above 50°F.
Regards
Jean Marc Chartier
Regards
Jean Marc Chartier
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From: Central New York
Thanks JMC,
I knew what the IAT was, but didn't understand the PID part.
Thanks for your input.
I am starting a new thread with what I found to correct the monitors setting and then resetting so that everyone will have the repair info. I had to ask a big favor from our local Ford Dealer on where to find the KAM Fuse.
Read my next thread and I will explain it in detail.
TJKinCNY
I knew what the IAT was, but didn't understand the PID part.
Thanks for your input.
I am starting a new thread with what I found to correct the monitors setting and then resetting so that everyone will have the repair info. I had to ask a big favor from our local Ford Dealer on where to find the KAM Fuse.
Read my next thread and I will explain it in detail.
TJKinCNY
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From: MI
- Yea the vacuum lines become so brittle you can break them real easy.BTW - The b^tch slappin was to tell you if the block was loose. When those blocks are loose, they get buggy.
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From: MI
I was just wondering who's handcuffed to the undercarriage ? Faster150?
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Sounds like AJ knows these trucks AJ is a good, all around mechanic. The real fix came from the Ford Dealer's best Tech. It dawned on me yesterday morning to go see him and get some info from him concerning the KAM voltage system. I went through my manuals and found no info on the wiring or most importantly where it hooked into the fuse block. Come to find out, my 1998 has a 3rd fuse block on the drivers side fender wall that holds 6 fuses. Fuse 1 in that block is for the KAM, (keep alive memory) Sure enough, the fuse was blown. Not only blown, but one side of the fork blade on the fuse was busted / melted in the socket. That concerns me because it would need a big spike to break / melt that blade. Easy fix though. There are 4 empty spots in that fuse flock and I will take out one of the fuse holders and replace it into the #1 spot. The problem is finding why that fuse went like it did. The good news according to the Techs Ford manuals is that there is one line from the fuse directly into the PCM. I can't remember which pin on the PCM it goes to but AJ has it written down.
This will correct my monitor resetting problem. - Yea the vacuum lines become so brittle you can break them real easy. WHile I was at the Dealership, I asked Paul, (their best tech.) what was going on with the 4x4 and he says he has to service a few trucks a year for my same problem. (4x4 NOT fully engaging). The fix is, where the actuator arm comes off the vacuum switch actuator into the axle will get all gummed up from our winter's nasty roads. He said to use some good penetrating cleaner to spray in there and work it back and forth until it moves freely. He claims, 9 out of 10 times, this is the fix. He said that I should be doing this every Spring as usual maitenance, especially on a 1998. If that doesn't do it, then I have to do what JMC suggested and put a new fork and bushing kit in in the axle. AJ will be doing that, I'm not tearing that axle apart. Let's HOPE that it just needs cleaning. By the way, the proper vacuum pressure is 20 inches. I have enough pressure on both lines, so no problem with the vacuum lines.
BTW - The b^tch slappin was to tell you if the block was loose. When those blocks are loose, they get buggy. ye I know, all three blocks are tight though.
AJ is a good, all around mechanic. The real fix came from the Ford Dealer's best Tech. It dawned on me yesterday morning to go see him and get some info from him concerning the KAM voltage system. I went through my manuals and found no info on the wiring or most importantly where it hooked into the fuse block. Come to find out, my 1998 has a 3rd fuse block on the drivers side fender wall that holds 6 fuses. Fuse 1 in that block is for the KAM, (keep alive memory) Sure enough, the fuse was blown. Not only blown, but one side of the fork blade on the fuse was busted / melted in the socket. That concerns me because it would need a big spike to break / melt that blade. Easy fix though. There are 4 empty spots in that fuse flock and I will take out one of the fuse holders and replace it into the #1 spot. The problem is finding why that fuse went like it did. The good news according to the Techs Ford manuals is that there is one line from the fuse directly into the PCM. I can't remember which pin on the PCM it goes to but AJ has it written down.This will correct my monitor resetting problem. - Yea the vacuum lines become so brittle you can break them real easy. WHile I was at the Dealership, I asked Paul, (their best tech.) what was going on with the 4x4 and he says he has to service a few trucks a year for my same problem. (4x4 NOT fully engaging). The fix is, where the actuator arm comes off the vacuum switch actuator into the axle will get all gummed up from our winter's nasty roads. He said to use some good penetrating cleaner to spray in there and work it back and forth until it moves freely. He claims, 9 out of 10 times, this is the fix. He said that I should be doing this every Spring as usual maitenance, especially on a 1998. If that doesn't do it, then I have to do what JMC suggested and put a new fork and bushing kit in in the axle. AJ will be doing that, I'm not tearing that axle apart. Let's HOPE that it just needs cleaning. By the way, the proper vacuum pressure is 20 inches. I have enough pressure on both lines, so no problem with the vacuum lines.
BTW - The b^tch slappin was to tell you if the block was loose. When those blocks are loose, they get buggy.
ye I know, all three blocks are tight though.TJKinCNY
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From: MI
Done! You know, I didn't know the KAM fuse was in the Block fuse - fuse block..? Huh, I know there's a 5 and 20 amp in there, but I thought one was trailer lights and the other the block fuse. I've blown one of those before and didn't know it until going thru them for no reason. I pull them all once in awhile and clean them up..
I'm going to service the actuator. Personally I never had a problem with the 4WD on this truck - Not one in 256,000 miles and I go thru allot of salt. I replaced the lines down there tho, they looked nasty and dried out..
I'm going to service the actuator. Personally I never had a problem with the 4WD on this truck - Not one in 256,000 miles and I go thru allot of salt. I replaced the lines down there tho, they looked nasty and dried out..
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From: Central New York
That's a real good idea, pulling the fuses and cleaning them up every now and then. If I had done that to the KAM fuse I wouldn't have had a problem.
Simple math equation actually...
corroded fuse blade + high resistance = [blown fuse] -5 amps KAM
= FAILED INSPECTION
AJ, got a small needle nose plyer in the fuse holder and pulled the broken fuse blade out. He said it was corroded for sure. He used a tiny jeweler's file and some CRC cleaner to clean the socket out and put a new fuse in.
Ye, the KAM fuse is the 5 amp fuse in the #1 position. I don't know what the 20 amp fuse in the # 2 position is for. I would have to ask Paul at the dealership because it is not in any of my manuals. It will be in his factory manual for sure. If it wasn't for Paul, I never would have found that KAM fuse.
AJ and I didn't even know that 6 position fuse block was there. Worse yet, we can't figure out why Ford would put that block by itself on the fender wall. There is plenty of open fuse space in the other 2 main fuse blocks.
As far as your actuator shift rod, Paul said that I should be doing that every spring for sure, especially in NY State. They spread sand and salt around here like it was given to them for free. I still havn't gotten to it yet, but I will by Friday. I hope that will fix it, because if it doesn't, I have to have AJ pull that inner axle apart and clean it up or put that fork and bushing repair kit in like JMC suggested. I hate learning things after they are broken.
Both of these problems could have been avoided if I knew to maitenance them.
Pulling the fuses and cleaning the blades off is a good idea. Especially under the hood. I will take advantage of a day this winter with nothing to do and get er done. 
Have a great Thanksgiving Brew,
TJKinCNY
Simple math equation actually...
corroded fuse blade + high resistance = [blown fuse] -5 amps KAM
= FAILED INSPECTION
AJ, got a small needle nose plyer in the fuse holder and pulled the broken fuse blade out. He said it was corroded for sure. He used a tiny jeweler's file and some CRC cleaner to clean the socket out and put a new fuse in.
Ye, the KAM fuse is the 5 amp fuse in the #1 position. I don't know what the 20 amp fuse in the # 2 position is for. I would have to ask Paul at the dealership because it is not in any of my manuals. It will be in his factory manual for sure. If it wasn't for Paul, I never would have found that KAM fuse.
AJ and I didn't even know that 6 position fuse block was there. Worse yet, we can't figure out why Ford would put that block by itself on the fender wall. There is plenty of open fuse space in the other 2 main fuse blocks.
As far as your actuator shift rod, Paul said that I should be doing that every spring for sure, especially in NY State. They spread sand and salt around here like it was given to them for free. I still havn't gotten to it yet, but I will by Friday. I hope that will fix it, because if it doesn't, I have to have AJ pull that inner axle apart and clean it up or put that fork and bushing repair kit in like JMC suggested. I hate learning things after they are broken.
Both of these problems could have been avoided if I knew to maitenance them.
Pulling the fuses and cleaning the blades off is a good idea. Especially under the hood. I will take advantage of a day this winter with nothing to do and get er done. Have a great Thanksgiving Brew,
TJKinCNY
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 7,295
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From: St. Louis (Out in the woods)
Simple math equation actually...
corroded fuse blade + high resistance = [blown fuse] -5 amps KAM
corroded fuse blade + high resistance = [blown fuse] -5 amps KAM
The 20 A fuse is for the trailer brake/turn lamps via the respective relays.
Only the 97 and 98 had that box. It isn't even in the 98 owner's manual (it's in the 97). It is in both EVTMs. It appears to be either an afterthought, a summer intern's project (along with the trailer relay box), or just some other screwup on Ford's part.
The 5A fuse in the engine fuse module supplies PCM pin 55 (PCM KAM). With the fuse blown or open, the PCM reset every time the ignition switch was turned off causing the monitors to all be reset.
In all, it's a good catch by the guys working on it.
Steve
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Your math doesn't add up Corroded fuse blade = HIGH RESISTANCE= LOWER CURRENT does not equal blown fuse.Thanks for the input. Any idea what blew that fuse then and blew bad enough to cause the one blade to seperate from the fuse and cause it to get stuck down in the the fuse holder. It literaly looked like the blade melted where it connected to the fuse.There had to be a spike in the current to blow the fuse. My understanding from Paul (dealership tech) was that the corrosion caused the high resistance which then caused the fuse to blow. It sounds like I am missing something in the middle of that conversation. Your feedback on this would be greatly appreciated. Please don't take this as disagreeing with you, I am the type of guy who has to know the answer
The 20 A fuse is for the trailer brake/turn lamps via the respective relays.
This is good info to have. I will let AJ know. Thank You
Only the 97 and 98 had that box. It isn't even in the 98 owner's manual (it's in the 97). It is in both EVTMs. It appears to be either an afterthought, a summer intern's project (along with the trailer relay box), or just some other screwup on Ford's part. I agree !!!
The 5A fuse in the engine fuse module supplies PCM pin 55 (PCM KAM). Thank you for this added info. Is the engine fuse module in the main fuse block under the hood or in the relay box next to it ? Again, this is not in my manuals, or are you talking about that seperate fuse block that holds the 5 amp fuse for the PCM-KAMWith the fuse blown or open, the PCM reset every time the ignition switch was turned off causing the monitors to all be reset. Exactly !!
In all, it's a good catch by the guys working on it. Ye, Paul from the dealership is, in my opinon, the best Ford Tech in the area. I will be buying lunch for him and the service manager for sure.
Steve
The 20 A fuse is for the trailer brake/turn lamps via the respective relays.
This is good info to have. I will let AJ know. Thank You
Only the 97 and 98 had that box. It isn't even in the 98 owner's manual (it's in the 97). It is in both EVTMs. It appears to be either an afterthought, a summer intern's project (along with the trailer relay box), or just some other screwup on Ford's part.
I agree !!!The 5A fuse in the engine fuse module supplies PCM pin 55 (PCM KAM). Thank you for this added info. Is the engine fuse module in the main fuse block under the hood or in the relay box next to it ? Again, this is not in my manuals, or are you talking about that seperate fuse block that holds the 5 amp fuse for the PCM-KAMWith the fuse blown or open, the PCM reset every time the ignition switch was turned off causing the monitors to all be reset. Exactly !!
In all, it's a good catch by the guys working on it. Ye, Paul from the dealership is, in my opinon, the best Ford Tech in the area. I will be buying lunch for him and the service manager for sure.
Steve
Thanks again,
TJKinCNY
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From: St. Louis (Out in the woods)
The "engine fuse module" is the mini-box.
As to why the fuse blew and the terminals failed, the analysis would have to know WHICH of the two terminals was the one most degraded.
It potentially could have been corrosion-caused overheating or perhaps the corrosion built up and formed a current path to ground.
Steve
As to why the fuse blew and the terminals failed, the analysis would have to know WHICH of the two terminals was the one most degraded.
It potentially could have been corrosion-caused overheating or perhaps the corrosion built up and formed a current path to ground.
Steve
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The "engine fuse module" is the mini-box.
As to why the fuse blew and the terminals failed, the analysis would have to know WHICH of the two terminals was the one most degraded.
It potentially could have been corrosion-caused overheating or perhaps the corrosion built up and formed a current path to ground.
Steve
As to why the fuse blew and the terminals failed, the analysis would have to know WHICH of the two terminals was the one most degraded.
It potentially could have been corrosion-caused overheating or perhaps the corrosion built up and formed a current path to ground.
Steve
I think now and then I will do as Jbrew suggested and pull the fuses in the "fuse module's" that are under the hood and look for corrosion, etc.
I know that the mini-box is all good now and for added protection AJ put some dielectric grease on the fuse blades that are in that module.
That KAM Fuse caused some real grief. Not knowing it was there was the biggest problem along with it not being listed in any manuals that I have.
I did have enough sense to go and ask the dealership where it was, knowing that it would be the most likely cause of my monitors not resetting.
Thank's again,
Tim