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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 12:46 PM
  #16  
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No codes so far but in Ontario they don't care if the SES light is on or not. 2005 was the first e-test for my truck and by then it only had the two rear cats. They put a sniffer up the pipe and test that way. Every two years we need an e-test to renew plates. I am due in May 09. I just found out that you can us an e-test that was done up to 12 months prior to plate renewal. That means that I can go and get it tested today and use that test to renew my plates. If it passes I am clear if not I have till May to fix it. I still want long tubes........

regards

Jean Marc Chartier
 

Last edited by JMC; Oct 24, 2008 at 12:47 PM. Reason: SPELLING
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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 06:05 PM
  #17  
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They still use a sniffer on OBD2 vehicles? Most places here only scan for codes, and it will not pass with a P1000.

If it's an idle-only test, you will still pass with some really toasted cats as long as the O2's are doing their job.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 06:38 PM
  #18  
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With a pro-charger, shouldn't you bump up to a 3" Y? That way -@ boost you can off that spent air pronto.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 09:55 PM
  #19  
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I don't know about Ontario, but here they just plug in the truck first, if it passes (I.E. no codes) then you are good to go. If you don't then they do a sniff test on rollers and run through a bunch speeds. If you pass that you are good to go, if not, they tell you that the vehicle need to go to a certified tech or you can do it yourself, but the test gets more involved. Mine passed the visual (because I have 2 cats) and passed the OBD II scan, so I was good to go.

Good Luck!
 
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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 11:50 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Blown F-150
I don't know about Ontario, but here they just plug in the truck first, if it passes (I.E. no codes) then you are good to go. If you don't then they do a sniff test on rollers and run through a bunch speeds. If you pass that you are good to go, if not, they tell you that the vehicle need to go to a certified tech or you can do it yourself, but the test gets more involved. Mine passed the visual (because I have 2 cats) and passed the OBD II scan, so I was good to go.

Good Luck!
Something happened to your cats at one time.. I can't remember what it was, but you melted one didn't you ?
 
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Old Oct 25, 2008 | 05:24 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by JMC
jbrew,
Thanks for the picture.

My factory cats are 9 years old. 1½ years ago they stilled passed Ontario emissions but I am not sure that in May 2009 they will be up to the task. Add to that the blower and I am worried.

The factory Y pipe is restrictive so that might as well get replaced too. If I follow that train of thought I will be replacing every thing between the muffler and the engine block.

So if I go with Pacesetter long tubes, or any other brand, there is no way that I can bolt it up to my existing cats without cutting and so on. The only two true bolt ons that I know of are OBX and Dynatech. $500 VS $1300. With OBX I still need cats. With Dynatech I need a loan......

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier
You sound like you're in the same predicament as myself. The Dynatechs are a better header but the price can't justify the added HP...I would rather dump that kind of cash for some 4:56 gears instead. I myself am going with the ebay OBX kit...since I live in Alberta we don't have emissions here but I think I will still go with a set of Magnaflow cats (why not, I already have them). For me, it's just a personal thing, I hate the smell of unscrubbed exhaust.
 

Last edited by primerib; Oct 25, 2008 at 06:56 AM.
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Old Oct 25, 2008 | 10:20 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by jbrew
With a pro-charger, shouldn't you bump up to a 3" Y? That way -@ boost you can off that spent air pronto.
Good question. Dammit, now I have to look into this again. Thanks a bunch jbrew! While I am at it I added your name to my spell check dictionary. I am tired of always picking it up fro misspelling.....

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier
 
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Old Oct 25, 2008 | 10:31 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by JMC
Good question. Dammit, now I have to look into this again. Thanks a bunch jbrew! While I am at it I added your name to my spell check dictionary. I am tired of always picking it up fro misspelling.....

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier
When I spell check yours, one of the cross references is "GMC"

So yea, your in my dictionary as well.

When we get famous, maybe we'll get in the Webster...Not sure how we'll be defined tho
 
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Old Oct 25, 2008 | 10:41 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by jbrew
Something happened to your cats at one time.. I can't remember what it was, but you melted one didn't you ?
Sure did. I think it was caused by a hard trip through the mountains pulling a 4 place sled trailer and 4 sleds with gear. I also thought it was possibly caused by my truck getting up to temp and then miss firing for longer than I should have let it due to a bad coil.

not sure but this is what one of them looked like. this was the second cat on the Passenger side. Strangely both pre-cats looked good.
 

Last edited by Blown F-150; Oct 25, 2008 at 10:42 PM. Reason: really bad typing
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Old Oct 25, 2008 | 10:46 PM
  #25  
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Was that the same side you were misfiring on ? That would do it. Plus if your EGR valve is acting up, that will make matters worse.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2008 | 12:25 AM
  #26  
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Yeah it was the same side, My truck was really bad for the rear passenger plug well filling up with water. I tried di-electric grease, silicone, replaced the coil boot, you name it. Nothing seemed to help. So I just gave up muddin' and took the quad out when I wanted to get something dirty. I have never had any issues with my EGR valve, but I suppose I should take it off and clean it out, I have never done it. But it's starting to get cold outside and I don't have a shop or garage anymore.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2008 | 12:38 AM
  #27  
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Filling the chamber with water in the back (#4) is usually from those damn heater core lines. You can't tell if their leaking because they only leak at certain times under pressure. There is no visible signs of this. Coolant level stays the same because there isn't enough coolant leaked to make a difference in level. It's takes allot of time for it to make a difference there.

Coolant evaporates quickly and dicipates under heat conditions , therefore leaving no visible eveidence. BUT, the plug chambers will hold coolant for a period of time. This is purdy much the only way you can tell .

Well you have to real carefull cleaning the valve itself. Infact I wouldn't recommend it, just get a new one. The valve diaphram is easily compromized. What you can clean is the ports leading to, in the Plenum itself..
 

Last edited by jbrew; Oct 26, 2008 at 12:47 AM.
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Old Oct 26, 2008 | 01:28 AM
  #28  
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Thanks for the info Jbrew, I will just get a new valve, it's the original so it should be changed. I have to get under the hood tomorrow anyway to fix a idler bearing that's shot. I haven't had any issue with the plug well having any water (or Possibly coolant) in it for at least a year and a half now. One thing I've always liked about the truck is I did a coolant flush two days after I got it and never put a drop of coolant in it again till I flushed it last fall.

Sorry about the thread jacking JMC!:o
 
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