Removing the heads and keeping her in time is a far harder project IMO.

If you searched, then you found user Galaxy who did his with the heads on the truck and couldn't believe how easy it was. Now he rents out the kit.

I don't mean to come off as flaming you, I just can't see removing the heads unless you really know what your doing with this modular or unless there's other problems that call for it. Sure it would be easier with the heads on the bench, but at what cost?

 

When you set the crank to the correct position you place all the pistons in such a position that if the valves were opened they would not strike the pistons. This allows you to remove and reinstall the heads with out the fear of damage. You will need to hold the cam gear in the correct alignment position or risk setting the timing chains to an incorrect position. This can be accomplished by using the tool or a pair of vice grips holding onto the cam, not the lobes, and resting against the head. I would strongly recommend a shop manual.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

 

I have absolutely no vested interest in that procedure except my feeling that it's the BEST way to handle this issue. You expressed an interest in fixing it right for the long haul, and in my opinion this is it. If you spend some time on the site, you will see exactly what they do. They are master Ford technicians and have developed their own tools, inserts, and procedures. You also do not need 8 inserts. They offer that service for ambulances and other critical reliability applications. If the threads and seats are still in good shape, they simply can clean them properly and torque the plugs down to 28-32 ft/lb which they have found virtually eliminates blowout.

Not trying to flame, I am not able to answer your questions on how to R&R the heads, that's not my thing. I'm just trying to give you the best advice that I can with my knowledge.

I would not trust myself to be able to successfully remove and replace cylinder heads on a Ford Triton V8. Aluminum can bite you in the butt. If the head gaskets were not leaking, I would not even try to yank the heads till the whole engine needed rebuilding, and even then I'd probably buy a rebuilt long block.

 

I understand the need to arrange the piston positions of all 8 so that if the cams operate the valves with the chains disconnected, there will be no interference, no impact with the valves.

But to get it to this one position, the crank must be moved away from TDC, which presumably will also cause the timing marks on the cam gears to go out of whack/lose their reference marks.

Which is probably OK while taking it apart, but what about when reassembling?

When reassembling everything, would I put it all back to TDC and line the cams up to the reference marks without operating the valvetrain?

My Chilton's manual is not real helpful; what would be a better manual to buy, and where would I get it?

FWIW, I am not unfamiliar with OHC engines, having rebuilt several (Volvo), but they were noninterference types, so the technique falls under "new learning" for me.

I guess I am curious about the engine and just want to remove the heads, that's all.

Plus, working on my rigs keeps me out of the casinos.

 

Give me an e-mail address and I'll send you the procedure from Ford Service.

 

jbrew has you covered. I have copies of the Ford Service cds. Where the manual instructs you to use the cam holding tool a vice grip around the shaft will also work.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

 

You should have 3 E-mails Mr V. It's funny, Ford service requires removing the engine first before the heads with the 2002 models.

So I sent the 99 procedure as well. That covers head removal without removing the motor.

Well, did you get all that - The least you could do is Confirm, so that I know I didn't waste my time.

 

That was a waste