I had some chirping in my engine for a bit so i replaced the belt with a gatorback.

A couple days after replacing it the chirping is still there, usually at start up. But now theres alot of squeeling when getting up to speed. It seems to only squeels when the engine is speeding up (1500 to 2000rpms). when its just at cruising speeds it does it occationally.

So...I took the belt off and noticed the edge of the belt seems to have been rubbing against something, not completly sure but there is a little black scuff behind the drive belt tensioner and also near the power steering pump pulley. I also put the old belt back on and the is squeeling still there (it wasnt there originally with the old belt, just the chirping at start up).

Ive also noticed the Power steering pump pulley can move in and out a few millimeters, Is that normal?

And i also notice that my 01 5.4L does not have a Belt idler pulley on the right side, although the diagram on the fan shroud dosnt show it either so thats probably right.? (#5 in diagram)


Ive turned the pulleys they seem fine. is there any way else to test the pulleys and see if there bad?

o yea, theres no chirping or squeeling noise with the belt out and engine running.

(my guess is the stearing pump pulley since it moves in and out a bit, and there appears to be a little black scuff behind it indicating the belt is possibly hitting there)

any ideas?

 

Sounds like your water pump might be shot. Not unexpected after 7 years.

 

I would attempt to isolate the problem a little closer....
1. Check pulley alignment
2. using either a mechanics stethiscope or using a long screwdriver (placing the metal end on the object and placing your ear against the handle), have someone either start the vehicle or run the engine at an rpm that makes the squeek- then check each idler/tension pulley for noise, then waterpump, ac compressor, power steering pump, etc.
3. If all checks out ok, there might be either oil/water contamination on the belt or pulley. Remove belt, clean with soap/water, spray pulleys with a degreaser like Brakekleen.
4. If squeek is still there, at the harware stores, they sell sticks of dry lube for doors, etc, with the engining running, apply to the belt.
5. Replace tensioner

 

i shot a couple sprays of water in their, that actually stopped it. Letting it all dry now so i can try and retest each pulley.

how do you check pulley alignment? eyeball it, or is there a test?

i didne see anything in my haynes manual about it.

 

Be sure the belt tensioner is perfectly free. They often get stiff, and can't adapt to belt motion fast enough to avoid squeal. Test with belt removed. The only resistance to movement should be the spring. Good luck.

 

ive got the same problem with my truck.but its the 4.6. i actually shredded the stock belt last year cause of it. ive got a gatorback on mine now and it is showing signs of rubbing, and it squeals at start up.

 

i see the tensioner bobbing up and down with the reving of the engine, but its not very easy to move by hand.


does anybody know if the water pump pulley is suppose to have a little bit of play in it...like i said in my first post, it can move in and out a few millimeters.

 

How do you check the belt alignment???

does anybody know if the water pump pulley is suppose to have a little bit of play in it...like i said in my first post, it can move in and out a few millimeters with the belt off.

 

In and out a few millimeters isn't a big deal. If it moves side to side it is on its way out. When you turn it by hand does it turn smooth or does it hang up at all?

 

it rotates smoothly. Its funny though, it only chirps now at start up for like 2 seconds. And i cant get it to repeat so i can listen to it with a mechanic stethascope. Going to have to have someone start it for me when im listening.

i did spray some degreaser on the pulleys and belt...but that didnt help anything a couple hours later...but today I start the truck and theres only the chirp at start up...

GOt to do some more investigating

 

I'm betting on the fan clutch.

 

I'm still leaning toward the belt tensioner. It should not be stiff at all. Any resistance to movement at all, and the spring won't be able to keep up. I've had this happen to me before - exact same symptoms. Easy to test with the belt removed: Use a pry bar and rapidly move the tensioner. There should be no resistance to movement, other than the spring.

glc - I wouldn't discount the fan clutch either. That is a good suggestion.

 

I'm kinda having the same issue.... I put a new belt and tensioner on about 1.5 years ago, less then 12,000 miles since the repair. It only does it in the morning (first start) for about 10 mins (and increases with pitch with RPM) and but after the truck is warm it will not do this throughout the whole day ?? any Suggestions
- I noticed the belt idler pulley looked like it was kind of in ruff shape, could this be the issue
I have a hard time seeing that the issue with my truck is either the belt or the tensioner, maybe though??

Thanks again for all the help

 

Well it's hard to say - If I heard it maybe, but maybe not as well. I'm with Kingfish on this one,- leaning toward the Water Pump most right now - Clutch is my second guess. Could be a bad idler..

What I've learned, from doing a few Fords recently (Explorer (4.0L) and a 5.4L) - Well actually I just checked everything out on the 5.4L before replacing the belt. The old belt had a torn rib/ engine side. All pulleys checked out/ Tensioner was free and moved well. Not one pulley had the least little bit of play on the bearing; - Just a little play warrants a replacement (bearing or part).

The explorer had problems, -would chirp inconsistently. Had a bad tensioner - had to loosen the Alternator to remove the belt - Fortunately, I was able to fix the tensioner. Checked alignment (a laser is the way to go here), that was okay. Reinstalled the tensioner and a new belt.

Still squealed here and there , not as bad.

I recalled when checking the pulleys for wobble, the Alternator pulley had a very little one, sort of difficult to detect - make sure you check them side to side and top to bottom. This was replaced and did the trick.
__________________________________________________ ___________________

Back to your problem ~

The Water Pump - I'm not sure if play from front to back is normal ?? I'll be out in the shop in little bit and have a factory replacement from Ford on the shelf. I can check that easy enough. Is the WP weeping out the top by chance? Any signs of water or dampness in that area? You might want to check that, weeping from the top is a dead giveaway when determining your pumps condition. It needs to be replaced.

So that was the "Water Pump", as for the "Fan Clutch" (Clutch fan) - Well, experts have said repeatedly "it is a good idea to replace the fan clutch at the same time as the water pump if the water pump has failed". Reason is ~ both age at about the same rate, so if the water pump has failed, the fan clutch may also fail soon.

The only way I know how to check the Fan Clutch is to spin it. A good clutch should offer a certain amount of resistance when spun by hand (engine off, of course!). But if the fan spins with little resistance (more than 1 to 1-1/2 turns), the fan clutch is slipping too much and needs to be replaced. - If the fan binds, does not turn or offers a lot of resistance, it has seized and also needs to be replaced.
Grab a blade (KOEO!!!) by hand, give it the wobble test as well. If it wobbles here, you can point the finger @ the fan clutch bearing (doesn't matter what finger) . If you recall, you have checked the wobble on the Water Pump and the bearing itself seemed fine. So if you have wobble when checking the clutch, - I would say you found the problem.

EDIT: - Checked the new Water Pump in the shop (A TRUE Ford part from the factory) - No Play from front to back. In fact, there is about 3/4" from the engine side of the impeller to the catch @ the shafts end. IMO -Your impeller has broke free from the shaft, that is why it moves inward and out. Most likley this will over stress/heat the bearing in the near future. The pump remains to be my guess, but I would replace both CF & WP in this case.

Good Luck. - Let us know what you find out . That goes for U2 Mr. Buckles ( :

Check this out - http://www.aa1car.com/library/water_pump.htm

 

Many (I might even go as far as to say most) belt failures are not due to the belt, but due to failed tensioners and pulleys - replace them.