PAO= polyalphaolefin. PAOs are made by using a suitable ethylene gas, usually a 1- decene, and under heat and pressure, is passed thru a catalyst such as nickel, and a pure based liquid lubricant is produced and for automotive use is an 8 cST liquid. It is a gas to liquid technology. The advantages have been exceptional cold flow properties, heat stability, oxidation stable, and shear stable. But the GpIII oils have pretty much caught up with the PAOs as far as performance with the exception of extended oil change intervals. GpIIIs do not make a good base for an extended mileage oil despite Mobils attempt to build one. Neither PAOs or GpIIIs support the additive package and some form of a binder is required to hold the add pack with the basestock. This is usually a mineral oil but sometimes esters are used as well. PAOs are polar positive or negative meaning they either stick to the metal parts or won't stick at all. Polar positive oils will use something like an alkylated napthalene to break down the film strength so the additive package can get in to work. Polar negative oil will use a tackifier to keep the oil on the parts. If both of the polar types don't use the above additives, wear is increased dramatically. I'm not a fan of using more additives to solve problems with a basestock so PAOs are not a favorite of mine but additive packages are a requirement regardless of base oil.

If you are considering using Amsoils 0w-20 take note, it is not API certified and in order to maintain your trucks warranty, should you have an oil related failure, the FORD WARRANTY will voided because of the use of Amsoil. While there will be someone jump in and say Amsoil would cover the issue, I've not seen that happen yet so take your chances. The issue with Amsoil and not meeting API certification is the amount of ZDDP in the formulation. API says that 800 ppms are max and Amsoil will have usually 3 times that amount. ZDDP is suspected of killing the cats on the emissions systems should it gas like in a head gasket leak or an engine that develops an unusual amount of condensation. I have not seen any real science behind the claims but I know that should your Ford engine have an oil related failure, the oil will be analyzed and if it exceeds the max limits set by API, you're on your own. But that type of failure is not necessarily common but again, you're taking a chance. The Amsoil filter is the best on the market for extended changes so if you are going to use the oil, use the filter too. Otherwise, Amsoil uses only top shelf materials it buys from others, they manufacture nothing as they are a blender, and they have an inspection team that tests every material going into the making of their products. They even go so far as filtering the finished product before bottling to make sure you have a pure and clean oil.
In my opinion, the use of Amsoil is not for the normal driver. With todays clean burning engines, oil changes at 5000 miles are common and some are going 7500 between changes. I change every 7500 miles on my 4.6 and still have single digit wear metals. I'm using either Pennsoil or Havoline 5w-20. Most folks change oil far too frequently and changing at 3500 miles is a major waste. But I also have the oil analyzed every change and my driving is mostly hiway. If you want to use the extended oil changes, use Amsoil, otherwise, any oil with Fords spec on the bottle will do just fine regardless of cost.

 

Well said!

Most oil related failures are caused by lack of oil not type of oil.
Even dirty oil is better than no oil.

Neither Ford nor Amsoil will cover a failure caused by lack of oil but Amsoil will cover any oil related failure while using their oil if Ford proves it was caused by the oil (which they would legally have to do to deny your warranty claim).

 

While we're here...has anyone ever even heard of a modern day engine failure DIRECTLY and SOLELY related to the oil (type, brand weight, or otherwise) used??? I for one have not!

It is also my understanding that lubricants are not required to be "certified" by the API to meet warranty/manufacturer requriements, simply that they must meet or exceed specifications set fourth by the API. Having an oil API certified to me is almost the same thing as having a famous actor endores a particular tooth paste. That may be a stretch, but I don't think I'm far off the mark.

If you guys know anything about motorcycle helmets, it's the same sales gimmic as with the DOT and SNELL ratings. It has been proven that DOT ratings alone, and not helmets with both ratings, are in fact safer in the majority of consumer, highway speed motorcycle accidents. BUT, your high end, expensive helmets always go after the SNELL ratings because it sells helmets. It's what the consumer wants to see...having the SNELL rating does not make it better.

Either way, regardless of the API "requirement", you'd be hard pressed to have a specific oil related issue with any quality lubricant.

Oooops...I almost forgot...If you are hell bent on having an API "certified" oil and that worried about the 'possibility' of an oil related issue from an Amsoil product, remember the XL oils are indeed API "certified". In addition, here is some correspondence from a personal friend of mine, lets just say "up the food chain" with Amsoil so to speak, in regards to addatives and effects on emissions...


Jon,
Our 0w 20, as well as all our other 30 weights and below, have reduced amounts of phosphorous and zinc that has been mandated by the EPA. The EPA did not make oil companies change their anti-wear additives in 40 weights and above, but many of them did it anyway. We are still a little higher though than other oils and we kept the high levels with our 10w 40's and 20w 50's so we could go after the hot rod and racing market that was having issues with flat tappet cams. The EPA did not make oil companies change their anti-wear additives in 40 weights and above, but many of them did it anyway. If he doesn't believe this or is still overly concerned sell him our 5w 20 XL which is an API licensed oil. We have several Ford dealers that sell Amsoil and Ford's lubrication chief even sent Amsoil a letter of appreciation for coming out with a 5w 20 oil when most other companies hadn't yet come out with their versions at that time. There has never been a catalytic converter ever ruined from using our oils period. This fear was caused by low volatile oils that when cooked off would carry some of the zinc and phosphorous with it and would hurt the converters according to the EPA. Just another example of poor oils causing problems that good synthetics do not. Amsoil ran many test with vehicles using Amsoil for 25,000 mile intervals with our high levels of anti wear additives and the converters still performed well even up to 200,000 miles. Let me know if you have further questions on this. Your customer knows just enough to make him dangerous, as he doesn't have the whole story and one that doesn't even apply to his situation, but that's why you become the expert and through education help them make an informed decision.

 

where do you buy your amsoil synthetic and what does it cost?

 

Start by browsing to www.amsoil.com. Prices are there and you can order from the website or find a local Amsoil dealer.

 

i work at a express lube so i got mine from there, around here you ahve to get it send in from like san antonio or somethin like that, if we didnt have amsoil i woulda had to gone with RP but good thing we had ams!!!

 

yeah I checked that out already. I was hoping to find a discount retailer.

 

No such thing as a discount on Amsoil. The only way to buy it cheaper than list price is become a dealer or find a dealer that's stupid enough to cut his own throat. I used to be a dealer and the profit margin is not very much to begin with. Amsoil is sold only through multilevel marketing, and the real profits are from signing up downline dealers. Even if you order off the website, your order is handled by a dealer close to you.

 

That's why you just put what the Ford designers designed the engine to run on. Regular old 5w20. There's no reason to pay more than $2.50 a quart for oil that's gonna splash around in an engine built for the cheap stuff!

If you have an oil that meets specs, then it will provide proper lubrication.
If you have an oil that exceeds specs, then it will provide proper lubrication.
Just because it will survive being cooked on a stove, or keep the engine lubricated at 6,000 degrees F, doesn't mean it makes the engine last longer.

I don't care what brand of oil you put in your truck, the engine is not gonna last more than 500-600,000 miles!!


Just get you some oil that meets specs. If you engine burns it, try a different brand.

I haven't been on this site since February! Did ya'll miss me?

 

Yeah! where the heck have you been? You use John Deere Motor oil if I remember correctly?...............

 

Hey Chester! Long time. Is the plane flying yet?

 

Isn't there a guy with a 5.4L in a van with over 1 million on the ticker?

I don't see why there needs to be such a fuss about oil...

Go to www.bobistheoilguy.com and www.google.com and search and read!!! Geez.

 

Yeah - and that guy's van burns a quart every 300 miles. Pulls into a gas station, fill the oil and check the gas. And some of you guys whine when you burn a quart every 3000 miles........

 

Ahhh come on...what else better have you guys got to do?? Absolutely nothing!! Besides, there's two types...those that know what they're going to do about oil regardless of what they read here, and those that would really appreciate the help and the feedback. Yes, sometimes there are too many of the same old threads and sometimes too much info is just as confusing as no info, but I'd be willing to bet the majority enjoy or appreciate reading up on this stuff. I'm sure all of us have been very greatful at some point or another when someone helped us out over a subject that may be old hat to everyone else....but you!

 

I've been working and schooling!
Yeah, I run JD. I have tried several brands over the years, and I have had good service out of John Deere oil. My truck doesn't burn it as bad as it does the other brands. That's the main reason I use it.

Not yet Norm.... $$$$$$$ I'm getting married in Dec, so the flying is on hold for now... Thanks for asking!