Proper Proceedure, Di-elec.,grease in COP connectors

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Old Aug 23, 2008 | 07:18 AM
  #1  
tjk_in_cny's Avatar
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From: Central New York
Proper Proceedure, Di-elec.,grease in COP connectors

1998 F150, 5.4 V8, 4x4.....
I just ordered my Cop's from Global and will be installing them along with new Motorcraft plugs next week.
I have read alot of different thread's and posts about using "plenty" of dielectric grease in the connector's.
Would appreciate it, if some of you guys would reply on your experience's and proper proceedure's.
Also, what is the best gap for my OEM Plugs. (.055 I believe?)

Thanks in advance.

TJKinCNY

PS:
My truck is going in for the Tranny flush today at the dealership.
I bought the truck used last Nov. and I am pretty confident that the previous owner didn't believe in sched/prevent mait.
At 141000 miles now, how often should this be done.
Other than a coolant flush, thermostat, and new U-Joints, I have gone right through this truck. Running awesome and loven my F150.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2008 | 02:50 PM
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tjk_in_cny's Avatar
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From: Central New York
Come on Jbrew and other Senior Member's

Come on Jbrew and other Senior Member's, post a reply.
I want to make sure I use the proper amount of Di-elec. grease and apply it right.

Thanks,
TJKinCNY
 
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Old Aug 23, 2008 | 03:58 PM
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Should make a sticky, I posted this many times.... But it's hard to find, I couldn't find any of those posts

1.) Pull the boot off the coil. The coil spring should remain on the coil when doing so. Make sure the spring is connected to the coil blade well.

2.) With a long blade screw driver to assist, spread dielectric thu-out the entire inside of the boot. - Don't be shy.

3.) Slide the boot back over the spring and onto the coil. Cover the boots top seam w/dielectric grease aswell.

The Coil is ready for install.

It's easier to install the coils if you apply a thin coat of dielectric grease on your plugs ceramics - just a a little there, keeps the new boot from buckling on install. Twist the coils as you install onto the plugs.

DO NOT over tighten the coil hold down bolts. Coils should move freely on their bushing. This prevents stress cracking in the housings which ultimently causes premature coil failure if done wrong.

I also seal the the entire chamber between the boots and cylinder head to prevent moisture/water from entering the chamber.
 

Last edited by jbrew; Aug 23, 2008 at 11:56 PM.
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 08:50 AM
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Your awesome my friend.
Thanks for your help and the quick reply !!!!

My truck loves me after that Tranny Flush. I can feel that when it is changing gears it is definatly smoother.

My Projects for next 2 weeks and the truck will be 100% done.

MC's dbl plats
New COP's
Passanger side lower ball joint (what a pain that will be)
U-Joints main drive shaft
Thermostat and Radiator Flush.

Got my rocker-panels and cab-corner in.
Going to the body shop Sept. 8th. Those parts will be installed (welded).
Gil is pulling my box and repairing one major rust hole, & 2 minors.
sandblast, body-fill, sand, 3 coats paint, 3 coats of clear. Box will be perfect shape again. Need to find a good aftermarket tail-gait. Prefer fiberglass or carbon fiber. Let me know if you have any contact's.

Thanks Again,
TJKinCNY
 
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Old Aug 24, 2008 | 11:24 AM
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From: MI
Your really doin her up, that's great !! Lot's of fun. Smart too, you farmed the body/paint work out . That was never fun for me. It's hard to get that finish right without a shop set up for it.

Have fun , sounds like you are. There's a few other things you can do on your own to go along with the projects you have in-front of you. You have enough goin on for now tho

Save these for later -

1. TPS check / then mod if needed - Not all Ford TPS's are @ spec calibrations. You can check this yourself. I had to make my TPS adjustable to calibrate correctly on my 98 5four. Look @ Neals post here, It applies to our models. I also have a writeup on it that of course I cannot locate right now, sucks , I had pics -

https://www.f150online.com/forums/en...st-my-tps.html

2. Your forward O2's should be replaced. But I had a hell of a time getting the right ones. I know where to go for those now. Leave the rears be, you'll end up doing major exhaust work if you touch them. You'll never need to replace those unless you generate a code directing you to. It's the forwards that make the difference. You can get those here, there pricey but worth the expense -

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/se...20Ford%20F-150

3. You can leave the intake pretty much stock. I made 3 Three inch intakes myself - There all in my galleries. I tested and found that the best mod is the "Gotts Mod" - Just do that one and you'll be set. Gott's mod -

http://www.fordf150.net/articles/idx...ification.html

4. Port and polish the TB/ELBOW, Info here -

https://www.f150online.com/forums/en...ttle-body.html


Some others here - http://www.fordf150.net/articles/ They might come in handy.

AND check out my galleries for pictures and diagrams, I have over 400 of them in there and there for everyone to use. Here -

https://www.f150online.com/galleries....cfm?gnum=7538

Good Luck



BTW - If you ever run into Emissions/EGR problems - Scorpio is priceless, go here for GREAT diagrams and explanations on every Emission fault code (Like PO401) - http://www.fordscorpio.co.uk/egrmonitor.htm

Now this should get Pinned under resources - We need a good Moderator that hangs around the ENGINES forums to make some of this stuff happen.
 

Last edited by jbrew; Aug 24, 2008 at 11:55 AM.
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