My '99 F-150 Lariat 4x4 with about 120k on a 5.4L is throwing a misfire code on #4, check engine light is on steady, and the truck is running like crap. Looks like I'll most likely end up having to replace the COP and plug on #4 (assuming I don't find anything else wrong before then, like a bad injector). Problem is, my bad luck would have it that of course #4 is the one furthest back on the passenger side, and hence the biggest PITA.

Any tips from those who have done this particular COP and plug on #4 before ? Any benefit to removing the fuel rail or other misc. hoses for access ? Also, time-wise is this a six pack job, or do I need the full twelve pack and a whole afternoon ?

 

all you need is patience with the plug. you'd need a socket irecommend a locking extension and a swivel and a ratchet to get the plug and the cop you should just be able to take an 8mm socket and ratchet and unplug it. i would recommend you do a full tune up as in all the plugs, fuel filter, all cop's is a decision you'd have to make, and i'd recommend a fuel system cleaner and conditioner. and it would probably be a twelve pack job.. good luck and dont get frustrated because thats when things go wrong.

 

Thanks for the tips. Yea that's the delema - whether to go through the whole exercise for just #4 and get back on the road fast, or do 'em all while I'm at it. I was hoping to not have to tap a keg this weekend (or at least not to have to work on my truck, anyway )

 

I aggree with Matt, do all the plugs. You can purchase new COP's from Ebay-Global Automotive. I purchased 8 new COP's 2 days ago.
I'm installing new Motorcraft plugs (only) and my COP's next week.
I'm not going to mess with the extensions and swivels. I made my life easier and pulled the fuel-rails.
I did make a huge mistake and put in Autolite Plats 4500 miles ago.
This was before joining this forum and I didn't know any better. My truck is running a bit sluggish and I feel a simple misfire now and then.

link to ebay/global automotive

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-I...mZ150284917869

Motorcraft COP's 93.00 ea. Napa 56.00 ea. Global's 10.00 ea

Alot of ppl on this site have used the Global's with no problems and a few other ppl. didn't like them. I'm hoping to be with the "Alot ppl."
I will be keeping my old COP's in case there is a problem.

Hope this helped & good luck.

TJKinCNY

 

Ya, I was doing some reading on the Global COPs last night, and bookmarked that same eBay link. Thanks for sharing the tip. Based on the majority of reviews here, I think that the Global COPs will be o.k. . Looks like I'm lining up for ordering parts and doin' all 8.

Anyone have any sources for discount Motorcraft plugs ? Doesn't look like Global has any listed that I could find.....

 

My local dealer is selling me platinum's for 6.08 each.
I didn't bother searching the internet, because you do not save enough $$$ when you add the shipping cost's in.

 

Haa, yea, coil 4; When that one falls to primary failure, the modulars make sounds that you'll never hear when one of the others fail. I can't explain it, but recall it well in both PI & Non PI engines (5fours anyway).

Be Advised -

You'll want to thread the plug in snug with a piece of 3/8 air hose or similar. Motor-craft discontinued the OEM plugs for the 99 back in 01. The updated plugs have twice the threads as the originals. If you have the old style, note the difference - big change. Anyway, I would say you almost have to use the hose on that one - It's very easy to damage the threads. You don't have to cross thread it to do damage to these heads, you can damage the chamber threads by simply applying to much pressure to one side using alternative methods. Plugs are made of a much harder metal and you can actually spread the threads in the heads or shave some aluminum off the port installing, IF done incorrectly or recklessly.

Global Auto is # one as far as - No DOA coils, also their numbers as far as reliability ~ there great! They carry the same stamp as OEM Motorcrafts on the flip side. I believe they come from the same manufacturer to begin with.

You really want to be thorough on the install - definitely pull them apart first and inspect the spring and blade connect. Make sure they are well connected and grease the ENTIRE inside of the boots before placing back on the coil.

When you twist them down on the plugs - make sure those very cheap boots that come on most coils do not buckle. Putting a little grease on the plugs ceramics helps.

Best set up for these , stock IMO =

Motorcraft Fine Wires (plugs)

MotoBlue Connectors (HD)

Global coils.

BTW

Don't forget to completely seal the plug chambers w/dielectric grease and make absolutely sure that your heater core lines aren't leaking under pressure. A good way to tell if she is - look down around by the starter for signs of a coolant leak - also, the rear corner of the passenger side head can reveal a core line leak. This will fry a coil in a short amount of time. Coolant leaves water stains on most metals - Look for these .

Good Luck

 

All - thanks for the tips guys. Definitely those little things can really make the job so much more smoooooth.... jbrew, thanks for the heads-up on those threads on the '99's. Guess I better get to orderin' parts and stockin' the 'frig for next weekend !

 

Yea , I wouldn't have many friends if I forgot to do that



Good Luck.

 

O.K., guys, need some advice here. Pulled COP from #4. Tested the resistance, and got about 0.6 ohms across the two input terminals, and about 5.5k ohms from the output terminal (plug connection) to either of the input terminals.

SOOOO..... what gives ? Think the COP is bad, or should I delve a little deeper (literally) and pull the plug ?

By the way, anyone who won Gold in gymnastics in this Olympics has nothin' on me. Anyone who's pulled #4 without removing the fuel rail, A/C hoses, cooling hoses, etc., etc. knows what I'm talkin' about. Thought I was going to have to call the Wife out there for a minute to get some small hands in there. But then I regained my senses after more careful consideration. That story of how my Wife had to help Me fix the truck would henceforth enter into every conversation and argument from here to eternity.....

 

Been there done that -

 

Just replaced all 8 plugs and COP's in my 01 SCREW 5.4. I had no trouble reaching #4 with the fuel rail in place. I did remove the fuel rail on the drivers side to get #7 & #8 out. The job was a pain in the a$$ especially since I did it the same day I installed a new passenger side exhaust manifold and 8 manifold studs also!

The plug/COP job can be done without too much trouble as long as you have some patience.

 

Another tips for the COP/Plug change:
On my 4x4 there was, apparently, a small amount of dirt on the top of the motor,close to the plug well.After pulling the plug on #4 cylinder, I was replacing the new COP (from Global), and I must have knocked a small pebble from the top of the motor,next to the plug well.It wedged itself between the plug and the wall,not allowing the COP boot to slide on.Well, being a bit rammy sometimes,I thought,Good Enuf,and bolted it all back up,only to find it ran terrible.Couldn't figure this one out for two days,finally read a tip here about dirt on the motor,got a small mirror,and headed for the driveway.Sure enuf,there was the rock.I used a piece of coat-hanger to knock it loose,and my trusty shop-vac, with a piece of 3/8" hose duct taped to the nozzle,and sucked it out.Installed the COP properly,and was rolling in no time.

 

I picked one up from Harbor Freight the day I did my plugs and COPs.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91705
A little over 5" long, making the top of it reachable, It made #4 a LOT easier, no swivel or u-joint needed. Was able to turn new plug in by hand, then get torque wrench on without an extension.