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Old Aug 16, 2008 | 11:45 AM
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tjk_in_cny's Avatar
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From: Central New York
Sorry for hijacking Engine threads......

Rocker Panels & Cab Corners

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I have a 1998 F150, 4x4, ext. cab (3-door). Can someone give me some info for good replacement parts (not OEM). I need under door Rocker Panels and Cab Corners for RH & LH.
Any help will be greatly appreciated. I have searched the internet and found rocker panels but I have to call them on Monday. I can not find cab corners for a 1998 F150. I can find them for F250 & F350 only.

I did post this in "Body" but did not know how quick I will get a reply.

Thank You,

TJK in CNY
 
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Old Aug 16, 2008 | 12:19 PM
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You found Rocker Panels? Good deal,I couldn't - Had to make my own from an old Kenmore dryer


Yea , when they start to go it doesn't take long for that cancer to spread. For the last 5 years I've done body work on it every winter. Winters in Michigan aren't that bad anymore, but the salt they use is hell. I never line x'ed this truck underneath or undercoated . That was done at the factory when new , but I believe that eventually wears off and that may be why I have the problems with rust now. Yea now, it doesn't matter what I do, using the the proper primer and paint after fusing in a patch - damn thing still rusts thru the paint in about 2 months. I don't know why.


Good luck on those corners.
 

Last edited by jbrew; Aug 16, 2008 at 02:28 PM.
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Old Aug 16, 2008 | 03:20 PM
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Hey, I'm not sure about finding the body pieces. When I had to get cab corners for my old ranger, I just went to the local body shop and asked if he could help me out. Very nice guy ordered them for me and I think they were only like 25 bucks.

I have a suggestion about the rust coming through on ya 'Brew. I ran into a product called "Rust Bullet" that we used in a couple of situations at work. Decided to try it on the bottom of my 3rd and 4th doors on my truck. It's been since last November when I did it and there is zero sign of any rust coming through since.

Check it out at www.rustbullet.com

I know rust always seems like a losing battle, but I hope this helps you out!
 
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Old Aug 16, 2008 | 03:36 PM
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Thanks , yea that sucks going thru the whole procedure properly only for it to rust back thru the inhibitor that quick - time consuming and expensive, not to mention that I despise doing body work - Just not my thing - have to force myself

Oh yea , the bottoms of the doors , inside .. I've done those up aswell

Yea maybe I'll give it another shot with that stuff you mentioned. I get to the point of undercoating , but wait first for a period of time. I don't want to apply that if it's going to rust thru again that quick. Never make it past that stage. It bubbles somehow, right before the rust makes another appearance. I prep everything right and use the good sh^t - doesn't seem to matter.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2008 | 11:27 AM
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Hey Brew, Rocker Panel & Cab Corner info !!!

To my surprise, I do not have to wait until Monday to call. Randy at Raybuck Auto Body returned my call yesterday afternoon. Nice guy for sure !!!!

http://raybuck.com/c-54832-1997-04-f...ight-duty.html
Call him @ 800-334-0230

He has both in stock. If I remember right we have identical trucks except the color. He states that the parts are tuff steel, black primered. He told me the mil thickness but I can't remember the number, but I am pleased with the thickness.

Part #'s
RH-ROCKER 1984-106 $65.00
LH-ROCKER 1984-105 $65.00

LH-CAB CORNER-1984-116 $70.00
RH-CAB CORNER-1984-117 $70.00

I will be ordering both rockers and the LH Cab Corner tomorrow.
RH Cab Corner is solid.

My buddy is going to cut out and weld in the new rockers, and I will do the finish work. We have to see the cab-corners before we figure out how that replacemnt will go. All toll, I will get out of this for $680.00 and I do the finish body and paint. He is going to repair a 6" diameter rust spot/hole on the RH of my upper box as well. He said it was just a bad/weak pc. of the metal from the supplier to Ford. He does quite a bit of these box repairs including his own Ford.
Should be interesting, I have done very little body work, but Pozzy (my buddy) thinks I will do a good job.
I am a good wrench but this will be a new experience.

Hope this info is helpful to you, and anyone else who lives in salty winter's.

They spread salt here in NY like it was given to them for free.

 

Last edited by tjk_in_cny; Aug 17, 2008 at 11:30 AM. Reason: spell ck
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Old Aug 17, 2008 | 12:04 PM
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Great! Yea, I need all four bed lowers as well. I'm trying to decide if it's worth doing - Still don't feel like it right now. I can't weld them in myself. I believe there's a spot weld procedure on the bed pieces.

Truck has 275,000 miles on it / Engine has 245,000 miles but runs like a champ. Hell, I have a trailer loaded hooked up to her right now and am 1/2 way thru a 600 mile trip . The bed and cab is packed as-well, pulls like a champ.- This damn thing will run forever.

Guess I should fix the body - I can't believe how good she runs tho. Damn Lucky.

Thanks for the info

BTW - I think it used a little oil , to hard to tell right now. But when new, it used a little when I was towing. Maybe it wasn't broke in yet - Now a better knock on wood.

I topped off the tank this morning and used 17.5 gallons in 297 miles in this 5.4L 4x4. 16MPG on the highway. I'm prolly pulling about 3000 - 3500 lbs , but that's pretty good I think / @ cruise 70 mph.
 

Last edited by jbrew; Aug 17, 2008 at 12:12 PM.
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Old Aug 17, 2008 | 01:08 PM
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These guys have been around for years. http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fe/full.aspx?Page=100

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier
 
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Old Aug 17, 2008 | 01:19 PM
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If rust is this much of a pita why no invest in a beater truck.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2008 | 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by x_sgs_x
If rust is this much of a pita why no invest in a beater truck.
They have to make a better one first. I need a 3/4 TON - Ford quit making them when they killed the 7.3L . The 6.0L is plagued w/problems. If I go gas motor, well it would have to be a 3 valve . - No Thanks.

I don't want to buy a Dodge, but it's looking that way. I want a truck that's built "factory" and one that will last without being in the shop a good majority of the time. The only truck at work that they haven't had problems with is the Dodge 1 ton dually, it's a stump puller.

I have to keep this Ford tho. Had it since new and I have to find out how long I can keep the engine running in her. No signs of failure in the near future.. Sooo, yea. - Best built truck I ever owned.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2008 | 10:58 PM
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From: Central New York
Originally Posted by x_sgs_x
If rust is this much of a pita why no invest in a beater truck.
My truck is a 1998 driven thru 10 salty winters. I actually have minor rust problems considering the age, miles and winter driving. To have both rockers go, a cab corner, 2 rust spots 1" dia. and the lg rust spot on the box, I'm doing pretty well. Rest of the truck looks great. $680.00 and some body time, no way would I drive a beater.
 
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