The Score: Drew - 8; Spark Plugs - 0
The Score: Drew - 8; Spark Plugs - 0
2005 F-150, got all of the original plugs out with no problems. Replaced with Champion 7989's. 40,000 miles on it.
My procedure:
Warm the engine (go until coolant is at normal temp - halfway on the gauge). I know, the new Ford doc specifies not to do this... but... I know that aluminum (cylinder heads) expands faster than steel (spark plugs) - so more hot means less interference. I did two plugs at a time, warming the engine before doing the next two. If the plug took less than 20 lb*ft to turn, I kept going and out it came. The ones that took more than 20 (there were only three - and they each took about 23-24 lb*ft), I squirted a couple little shots of WD-40 into the plug well, waited 15 mintues, and out they came. The WD-40 penetrated fine, I could see it on the electrode shield once the plug came out. This requires either a bending beam torque wrench, or a Snap-on Techwrench (I used the latter) - I wouldn't use a clickwrench for this, it might break the shield when it clicks. The worst plug, was of course, the drivers' side rear - it took two round of WD but it eventually came out without issue. Also, being right handed, that plug was the most difficult to get to. I removed the PCM and its bracket, then the passenger side plugs were all pretty easy to get to.
Some of the Champions had off-center electrodes, so I used some needlenoses and centered them, then gapped to 0.045 +/- 0.003.
Trucks runs just like normal - wahoo, no more plug worries!
My procedure:
Warm the engine (go until coolant is at normal temp - halfway on the gauge). I know, the new Ford doc specifies not to do this... but... I know that aluminum (cylinder heads) expands faster than steel (spark plugs) - so more hot means less interference. I did two plugs at a time, warming the engine before doing the next two. If the plug took less than 20 lb*ft to turn, I kept going and out it came. The ones that took more than 20 (there were only three - and they each took about 23-24 lb*ft), I squirted a couple little shots of WD-40 into the plug well, waited 15 mintues, and out they came. The WD-40 penetrated fine, I could see it on the electrode shield once the plug came out. This requires either a bending beam torque wrench, or a Snap-on Techwrench (I used the latter) - I wouldn't use a clickwrench for this, it might break the shield when it clicks. The worst plug, was of course, the drivers' side rear - it took two round of WD but it eventually came out without issue. Also, being right handed, that plug was the most difficult to get to. I removed the PCM and its bracket, then the passenger side plugs were all pretty easy to get to.
Some of the Champions had off-center electrodes, so I used some needlenoses and centered them, then gapped to 0.045 +/- 0.003.
Trucks runs just like normal - wahoo, no more plug worries!
The longer you wait, the more likely it is for them to stick and/or break when removing them.
4.6 guy here. I see alot that the 5.4 guys have trouble with this. Is a common thing for both motors, Im 22 yrs old and none of my past vehicles have had this problem only 4 vehcles but I did plug changes on all and never broke any plugs off. Just curious if I need to go through a special way to change my plugs when I do it.
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I had 99 Navigator that spit one of its plugs.. fortunately I had ESP warranty.. Ford put a NEW head in and then upgraded all the other plugs for no charge.. I believe the total bill approached $4k





