dtd05f150,

when you were removing the plugs, were you holding the spark plug socket rigid while you were turning it? Most plugs are breaking off flush b/c of the side force of the socket on the plug.

Bubba

 

Any updates on the truck??

 

this is why i do these plugs with the engine HOT and use aerokroil. mock me if you must but ive never broke one or damaged any threads doing it this way.

 

well the truck is still at the shop. it should be done tomorrow. so far none of the heads had to be removed.
complete update to come tomorrow...

 

if you are worried about hydrolock- disable ignition and turn engine over with plugs out- that will get rid of excess PM-3

I have an old 3.5 l chrysler concorde- when it was 2 years old it developed a fuel leak- had it fixed under warranty also the dealership hydrolocked the engine.- Earnhardt Doge in Gilbert, AZ had two chances to get it right.
Per the manual you are supposed to blow compressed air through the disconnected fuel lies to empty the fuel rail. If you don't the fuel will go into the cyclinders when the injectors are removed. If you omit that step you can crank over the engine.

AT 46,000 I got a rebuilt engine- it took them 2 years to get it running right after I diagnosed the problem and told them what it was.

Moral of the story AVOID EARNHARDT

 

Well, finally got the truck back yesterday. I was excited until I started it up. It idled like *****! I couldnt let anyone their know because I picked it up after hours. They will get a phone call today. It seems like there is a misfire. The truck idles rough and then clears out as I start driving.

I got about 2 miles from work today and the engine light went on. Looks like a trip to Autozone to see what kind of code it pulls. Im betting the mechanic miswired one of the COP's.

 

Well check engine code showed misfire on #3. I pulled the plug wire and disconnected it. Plugged in my volt meter, I had 12v at the end of the plug harness, plugged it back in and had 12v at the end of the plug wire. I also disconnected the harness at the injector and had 12v there too.
The only thing I think is that the spark plug itself is bad??
Anyone have any ideas? Im probably taking it back to the shop but I can prove that it wasnt throwing the code prior to taking it there.

 

They may got anti-seize on the electrode....I'd take it back without a doubt, sounds like they didn't really check it out good after the repair.