Yep, they are DG508 instead of DG511. They were also not from Global, so I apologize for mistakenly saying that.

 

From a Google search:

The 303-1398 is on back-order with Rotunda at this time (5/21/2008).

Once you get the ceramic out, you will also need a 303-1203.

http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1...lug_remov.html

 

This is why I'm procrastinating about changing my plugs and ordering COP's online. Sounds like 2-3 days of soaking is required.

I feel for you man.

 

Well I ended up speaking to some friends at a Ford Commercial truck dealer and I will be taking it there on Monday to pull and replace the plugs. They only deal with Ford trucks from F150 all the way up. They have done this repair several times and know it inside out. So I feel confident they will get this taken care of without needing to remove/replace the heads.

They did mention something interesting. Even though the new TSB mentions to not warm the engine they always get it hot to help remove the plugs. The danger to doing it hot is potential thread damage but that danger is easy to mitigate. Something to think about for the rest of the DIY's about to undertake it.

I'll let you guys know Monday how it went. Again, thanks for all the help!

 

This is good that you planned on nusing the TSB.

Here, you deviated from the TSB



and, unfortunately, here you paid the price for using the wrong product.

I'm not trying to kick you when you are down, but hopefully it is not all in vien and someone else can learn from this.

What is causing the plugs to break is CARBON build-up on the plug sheilds. You need a product that will cause the carbon to break down and become soft. You also need to remove the plugs after the proper soak time as when the product dries out the carbon hardens back up.

PB blaster is a penetrating oil. It would do well if rust or corrosion was the culprit locking the threads of the plug into the head, but that is not the problem.

From PB's Web-site:
PB Penetrating Catalyst

The world famous PB Blaster Penetrating Catalyst is more than just great. PB quickly brakes loose surface tension rust and corrosion by creeping up, around and in to hard-to-reach cavities. It's ideal for brake, exhaust and suspension system jobs. Plus, lubricating film remains on parts to help prevent further rusting.

A true penetrant
Formulated in 1957
penetrant, lubricant, rust inhibitor
Breaks loose surface tension of rust/frozen parts
Much higher flashpoint ** 152F
Non-evaporating lubricant
Saves time & money by ensuring user will not have to burn off or drill out nuts & bolts or other expensive & time consuming means of repairs


Nothing in their description claims it breaks down CARBON BUILD-UP.

Now the TSB says to use the MOTOCRAFT CARBURETOR TUNE-UP CLEANER. It is not a spray, but a bottle of cleaner. ( http://www.motorcraft.com/products.do?item=6 ) The TSB tells you where and how much to pour and how long to soak. It is designed to clean deposits in combustion chambers. They are adapting the use to go directly to the plug shields.

From Ford's website:
Carburetor Tune-Up Cleaner
Remove gums and other deposits from air/fuel induction systems of gasoline engines
Free sticking valves and sluggish compression rings
Purge excessive deposits from the combustion chambers
Ideal for spray cleaning of varnished steel or cast iron parts normally hand cleaned on bench operations
Not for use in diesel engines


Unfortunately we are our worst enemies sometimes. We glean enough information to be dangerous, ignore what we think is unimportant, and/or don't really understand what we are doing or what the problem really is.

Again, I really am sorry about the trouble you are having, but hopefully someone will grasp what is going on here, understand it, and save themselves the same grief. Don't feel bad, the "pro's" don't really have a grasp as to what is going on yet, at least not all of them.

Hope you get your problem resolved.

v/r
Bill

 

Nope, read the latest TSB, it is very detailed and clear about what has to be done and what has to be used. TSB-08-1-9

 

I've broken them using PB Blaster and using PM-3. I think it's a crap shoot either way, and a **** poor design.

 

I based the PB blaster on what people here have said worked for them. Your logic makes sense about the carbon so I agree, hopefully this serves to help others

We'll see how it goes at the dealer.

 

I started to say something earlier about the soak time and the PB Blaster, but let it go. You thought you were doing it right, but I think it is important to use Kroil or the stuff Ford now uses, which is probably repackaged Kroil. Plus, the above post is right on, you let it soak too long and it starts hardening again.

 

I am about to do my plugs. I have bought all the required items.
I did buy the Kroil. Here is a little test I did with it.

I am an avid hunter and sports shooter. I have an ArmaLite M15A4.
The bolt on these weapons accumulate a good ammount of carbon.
I decided to test the Kroil and it's abilities to break up the carbon.
I placed the bolt in a Zip-Lock bag with aproximately 2 ounces of Kroil.
I sealed the bag and left it for about 14 hours.
The carbon was completely disolved by the Kroil!
This has never happened with PB Blaster, WD-40, BreakFree or any other firearms cleaning products I have ever tried.

Have faith in the Kroil,....this stuff works!

 

Well, the TSB is specific about what to use - however, the PREVIOUS TSB said to use Kroil. I would be VERY interested to find out exactly WHY Ford changed it. Is it because the carb cleaner works BETTER, or was it to keep the dealerships from having to go out and buy Kroil on the open market?

Either way, PB Blaster is not the right product for this specific application.

 

mickdigler,

any updates on the truck??

 

Going off topic for a second, sorry guys.
Kroil is great for this. (AR bolt), but have you tried the Slip 2000 products? The 725 cleaner is the same as the Gas piston cleaner, just changed the packaging for the .mil types. It works in less than an hour, usually in less than half an hour if you knock the hard deposits off with a carbon scraper. Their lubes are also non-haz. I've went to the EWL for all of my AR servicing and hang with the regular S/2 CLP for pistols, never had a customer complain or had a lube related failure. It's about all I use in my shop now or reccomend to students.