I'm in the middle of a job to replace the head gaskets on my 97 Ford F-150 (4.2L, V6) and I rounded the heads on two cylinder head bolts. I'd like your opinion on two approaches I'm considering ; 1) epoxy a ½ drive socket to each bolt or 2) use an EZ-out.

 

I think the EZ-out has the best chance of success. I am not sure if the epoxy would hold for you but it sounds just crazy enough to work.

 

get the sears "bolt out" set best 20$ you can spend. those should spin them right out.

 

Have you tried a 12 point socket? If that doesn't work try a standard size socket that equal to the metric.

 

I wouldn’t try the epoxy I don’t think it will be able to hold long enough to break the bolt loose. I would use a damaged bolt/nut remover. These will usually be able to break most of the bolts loose. The only thing is once you use them once they really don’t work as well. So I would make sure you find the one that’s tight and hammer it on until it goes to the base of the bolt head. Then use a 1/2" breaker bar and get it loose. Here is a link to the remover im talking about http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952166000P.

Not sure if it’s the same thing as EZ-out but it think its your best bet.

 

yea.. thats the bolt out set i was talking about.ive gotten some pretty messed up bolts out with those.

 

Thanks everyone, especially bxstang2000. I located a ½ drive bolt remover for $15; includes the 15mm I'll need; http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...2061000P?mv=rr. I'm going to try this approach.

I'll get back to you later in the week with a report on how it worked.


Kevin

 

Just get a socket that's a little undersize for what's left of the bolt head, and beat it on with a hammer. You may need a SAE socket if the original bolt was metric. Tire shops use this technique to get stripped or locking lug nuts off wheels, and it works well. If it was a socket head (allen bolt), you can beat a Torx into the hole.

 

I have a set of those Sears nut/bolt removers. A good investment. They helped me out of a tight spot more than once.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

 

IMO; I would try a 6-pt socket (tight fit) more bolt surface to grip on. Usually the 12-pts do the rounding.

 

Finally got the job finished. I was so disgusted with myself for rounding the bolt heads and then for not being able to get past it that I let the job sit until about a month ago. Got a friend to grind the heads off the two bolts. In the process he ground the seat on one hole and damaged the valve cover surface. $150 later I had another friend TIG weld the damaged areas. The adventure continues. While removing the passenger side exhaust manifold I damaged (broke) the EGR tube. $20 later I had yet another friend weld that. The rest was just wrench work. While removing the rocker arms I didn't pay attention to how the fulcrum was oriented; there are angled oil channels on the mating surfaces of both parts. I assembled them with the oil channels aligned. After sleeping on it I figured it the surfaces would have a better chance of seeing oil if the channels crossed. So I fixed that. The moment of truth came last Tuesday. I'm happy to report the engine runs very smoothly. And the feeling of accomplishment...priceless.


Kevin