So I got my COPs changed today. Finally!!! They've only been sitting in the boxes from Global since last August. First of all, jbrew - thanks. You are worth your weight in gold on this forum (and that is whether you are fat or skinny ). Truly, thanks.

Now for lessons learned. Holy crap was that ever hard the first go 'round. I know it would be better next time, but, whew, glad its over. First, take your time. Seriously. There is way to many lines to unplug and mix up later. Bolts are hard to get, you will drop them if you rush. And you may or may not retrieve them. I've seen folks on here take about 2 1/2-3 hours on their first time. I took about 5+. But, I did not drop bolts or the 7mm COP socket that everyone else seems to drop either. I did not strip any plugs, so I count that a blessing.

Fuel rails - some of you say you can do this without pulling the rails. Are you hands the size of a 4 year old? There are some tight spots. I was hesitant to pull them, but couldn't see getting cleanly to all the COPs (and not dropping bolts). So pulled 'em. Was very careful not to lose the "hats" on them, and had one get stuck in the rails that I was able to get out. They are kinda tough to get back on, but a tap on the rails with a hammer got them down. My real struggle was 7 and 8 (driver side back two). Number 4 is way back there, and you are kinda going blind at it, but it is easier to reach because you don't have the EGR stuff in the way.

I bought this truck last year. The previous owner had the plugs changed right before I bought it. They were Bosch platinums. Mostly very white electrodes!! Although one didn't look like it burnt much, which I am guessing was my misfire.

As for torquing them down, once you hand tighten these plugs, you are just about as tight as you can go. I tried to go 1/8-1/4 turn, but it was just too much. Some I got 1/8 on, but you get "tight" very quick, so don't push it.

Now my question - number 8 was a PITA for getting the COP bolt back in. I actually loosened up the EGR port that goes down to the exhaust and the hard vacuum line to the brake booster just to get the fuel rail out of the way more. I got the bolt in started by hand, and it went pretty far. But then it tightened up about 3/4 of the way down. Tight to the point of "if I push it, I'll break it" tight. So I didn't. So the last COP does not have the hold screw tightened down at all. It is tight, but not against the COP. Should I get a shorter bolt to replace it? I can't imagine the COP backing itself out because the fuel rails is right above, it, but I don't want to chance it. I am wondering if the manifold is cross-threaded down below a bit, which I don't think I did. I even swapped bolts with another COP, same thing. Is it worth the effort to replace that bolt? That was really my only problem.

Oh, finally - last lesson. When you first start the truck up, it will shake like a son of a gun if you pulled your fuel rails. It was at that point I started using my "bowling words" as I like to call 'em. I immediately shut it off, and checked for the 12 vacuum lines that were clearly unplugged. Found nothing. Started up again, rough. Started to smooth a little, but not much. I thought, what the hell, take 'er for a drive. Smoothed out by the time I got around the corner. My theory - for what its worth - air in the fuel lines need a bit to work themselves out when you remove the rails. Anyone confirm? I'll tell you what, over 5 hours doing this and to have it start like that? I just about wanted to throw it off a cliff.

Took it for a drive. Wow. Smooooooth!!! Had the low grade misfire at about 45, especially with a camper in tow, it would stutter a lot. Now, none. Haven't hooked the camper up, but up some steep hills, smooth as can be. Motorcraft plugs and Global COPs. Give them a try!!!!

 

What engine and what year?

 

And how many miles on it?

 

I've pulled my cops and plugs three times and haven't had to remove the fuel rails. I haven't seen how hard it might be on other models though.
I would get that screw thing fixed though. If it's not tight against the cop then it will sit there and vibrate or might try to rise up and loose connection or let moisture down into the hole. Either pull it back out and run a tap in the hole, get a shorter bolt or add a washer or two.

 

I had the same exact problem with my #7 cyl.
Run to your local auto parts store, purchase a 5mm threaded nut, run the nut up to the shoulder of the bolt head and it will correct that problem.
I would say that the nut was about 3/16" thick. Works perfect !!
Did you use anti-seize on the COP hold down bolts. I did, just to make sure they come right out if need be.

Good Luck,

TJK

 

Sorry. 1997 5.4 motor with about 115k miles.

 

I changed all of my COPs about a year ago on my 00 F150. The truck had 175k. The only problem that I encountered was the mounting screws on the COPS. It broke in half. Used some bailing hay wire...and traded the truck in. It was time.

 

Last week the local Ford dealer sent a F150 over to us to get the a/c charged up. I guess their machine was down or something. Anyways, they had just replaced the engine in this truck (4.6) and I was looking it over while the system was going into vacuum and noticed the right front COP didn't even have a hold down bolt in it. I unplugged it, pulled it right out and showed it to the boss.
I should have just thrown it in my toolbox and sent it back with a miss.

 

Lol I just changed mine a couple weeks ago and I thought the same thing when I first started it up. It would barely run, kept hiccupping doing everything it could to stay running. At first I thought maybe I had hooked something up wrong, for the heck of it I revved it up a bit and it cleared right out and purred like a kitten after it came back down to idle.