Ok. Before everyone gets on my case I don't normally go 100K before changing plugs. I have followed the Manufacturer's recommended maintenance on my F-150 5.4L '01 4x4 truck. The book says to change the plugs at 100K. I have found it hard to believe that they have lasted this long. The truck is still running great without any missing. The gas mileage hasn't even drop off. I’m still getting 14.5 mpg city and 17.5 mpg highway. That’s not while pulling my trailer.

My question is: Is there a special procedure for getting them out? What are the best plugs to put back in? I know that's an open ended question. LOL. What should I look out for when changing them?

I'm also installing new brake rotors on the front and rear. I'm going with the slotted and cross drilled rotor. This is for cooler braking down the long mountain grades while towing my trailer. Any opinions on the rotors?

 

Don't know why you're surprised. I know many folks with more than 100k miles with the original Ford plugs. Right here in good ol'Alabama, too.

Anyway, here's a good tutorial, amoung others, for changing out the plugs.

https://www.f150online.com/forums/li...om/howtos.html

Motorcraft would be the best choice for another 100k, IMO.

As for the rotors, do a "search" on the brake forum for more specific info. The above link provides another good tutorial for changing them out.

Regards.

 

jward. you do realize that the provided tutorial the guy is recommending antiseize on the 2v heads which have problems spitting plugs not holding them in?

 

Klitch, I've put antiseize on the threads of every spark plug I've ever changed out. From lawnmowers, to atvs, to every vehicle I've owned. Personally, I'll do it when I change mine out on my 2003 truck. I believe even the Haynes manual suggests it.

I'm often suspect as to the reasons people on this particular forum complain about. The plug problem, you speak of, is one of them.

Anyhow, it's just a suggestion. Take it how you will.

 

jward. thanks for the post. I did read the post you link me too. It was a nice instruction set for changing the plugs. I was looking more for any tips on getting the plugs out that have been in for 100k miles. I've need left plugs in for that long. I will use antiseize on the new plugs. Antiseize has nothing to do with the plugs spitting out. The plugs spitting out has more to do with torque and thread engagement. Sorry, that's the engineer in me talking.

thanks for the info.

 

The 03 heads are modified with more threads in the chambers where anti seize may benefit in removal next service. All 03-Present two valve 4.6L and 5.4L have the new heads. 2 valve 5fours w/said heads existed only in the 03 model year. 4six 2 valves still use the new design currently.

The 01 has 4 threaded chambers where it is not advised to use anti-seize.

With the slightest issue of thread damage in these chambers - anti seize can accelerate plug ejection.

I had a problem with 3 & 4 loosening up inside of 10,000 miles when anti-seize was applied. A tech on this site suggested that I don't use it. Since I haven't applied the grease, 3 & 4 are keeping there torque #'s.

I suggest you don't apply this - plug removal isn't an issue in your model - It's keeping them in ! - a known consumer concern.

Matt's instructions are good less the anti-seize application in certain models. Also, you should include dielectric grease inside the ENTIRE boot before installation to prevent spark jump and carbon boot burn. This will help focus spark in direction it should be and protect from moisture for obvious reasons.

 

hey all i was saying is i dont feel antiseize is a requirement on our heads. i wasnt saying antiseize was gonna make em launch.

 

That's okay Klitch- I am Only because I witnessed them loosening up myself when I used it. I like using that stuff , but not in this case.

 

hm, well this 5.4 hasnt had a set of plugs in more than 0 miles! they fouled out after 15 mins lol. but my 4.6 plugs are still in there nice n tight after 60k. damn autolites.

 

Somethings up with the tune ?

Autolites ? - Isn't that some sort of modular disease - Why would yuh do that to your truck ? Or is that what happened to your 4six, any truck would be suffering with a set of those planted.

 

yeah i think the tune's too rich, but troyer says it MAY be the MAF... i'll give it a shot but im not crossing my fingers. i have reason to believe the MAF is fine.

i ran autolites in the 4.6, parts guy when i first picked up the truck said theyre fine. ran them ever since gritting my teeth when i felt a miss at idle.

the 5.4 is sporting NGK TR6's now. good quality cheap price.

 

I duno about the tune , I try to stay away from the stuff I don't have experience with - To bad MGD isn't around anymore, wonder what happen to that guy ?

The Autolites - Ahhh, yuh don't know what yur "missen" until you bless her with a set of OEM's (Motorcrafts dat is). Doesn't look like your going to find out in that 4six now - it's deceased isn't it

NGK's,Denso's fire just fine - Motorcrafts are running with them with there "fine wires" for the dual valves. Didn't Nipendenso make those Hot U's ? I use to run those in my bike at one time.

 

Make sure the engine is only warn, not hot, to the touch. Before you try to remove the plugs clean out the spark plug well with compressed air to get rid of anything that has made its way in the hole. If a spark plug feels tight as it comes out, don't force it. That's a good way to pull the treads out. Spray some penetrating oil or carb spray in the hole and let it soak a bit. Work the plug in and out until it comes out. Inspect the COP boots for swelling or splits and replace as necessary. I usually use a little dielectric grease inside the boot where it fits over the plug. I was once told to use copper anti-seize and that is what I use. Ford recommends nickel anti-seize. Most people use just regular anti-seize. I'm not sure the reasoning behind one over the other, but I think you should pick one and use it. Be careful not to use too much and only put it on the treads of the spark plug. If you had to use a spray to remove any of the plugs, spin the engine over a little before installing the plugs to remove any excess liquid that may be in a cylinder. Install the plugs and torque to spec.

 

Ford needs to put out a TSB so you don't have idiots like slc10844 trying to ruin your vehicle for you.

That's absolutely incorrect - Engine has to be totally cool on a 2001 4 thread 2 valve head.

DON'T use anti - seize on these plugs or you might be sorry.

I suggest you don't post if don't know what your talking about. You can't speak for "most people" when you yourself don't know what your talking about - that's just wrong!!

 

This isn’t a forum, it’s a dictatorship. Only one person here knows anything and if you don’t agree with them you’re an “idiot”. Don’t confuse spark plug procedures on a 2V engine with a 3V engine. I know you know more than the Ford engineers, but you might want to read the manual on spark plug removal and installation sometime. The use of anti-seize is common practice on spark plugs. I have worked on a fleet of Police Interceptor engines since the modular engine came out and have never had a spark plug blow out or strip threads on one I’ve worked on. My participation is forum is over. Good-bye!