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Replaced DPFE now new Fn CODE!!
I dont recall ever getting this one but I could be wrong. so after cleaning out all the ports of my TB, re-testing the EGR with the suck test and it was fine, I got a brand new code of P0420!! WTF??? I need to get this trucks inspection passed and something keeps stopping me, what do I do now? What are my next steps? I need help ASAP before I get pulled over for having an expired sticker. Ill try some researching but my time is limited on the internet since I am not around a computer as much due to other reasons. Thanks in advance!
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Originally Posted by suavehorn
(Post 3164959)
I dont recall ever getting this one but I could be wrong. so after cleaning out all the ports of my TB, re-testing the EGR with the suck test and it was fine, I got a brand new code of P0420!! WTF??? I need to get this trucks inspection passed and something keeps stopping me, what do I do now? What are my next steps? I need help ASAP before I get pulled over for having an expired sticker. Ill try some researching but my time is limited on the internet since I am not around a computer as much due to other reasons. Thanks in advance!
P0420 is a frequent discussion item. Click on the SEARCH button, enter that code, and, withing five minutes, your answer will be clear. Steve |
~Quoted below
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Well Jbrew, I thought you would remember by now what I have, lol!! I look up at the right hand corner and don see where to fill out this info you talk about. Anyways its a 99 f150 5.4 V8.
I read somewhere about the pipe that goes from the EGR valve was a problem for someone. Oh and I did have a SIDO put on almost a year ago too. Should I check something there and what should I look for? |
This code popped up just after cleaning the TB and ports?
Clear the code and see how long, or if, it returns. |
don see where to fill out this info you talk about. |
Search
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Originally Posted by jward
(Post 3165240)
This code popped up just after cleaning the TB and ports?
Clear the code and see how long, or if, it returns. comes up. |
hey jbrew
Originally Posted by jbrew
(Post 3165074)
You do something to your exhaust ? Search it out in the engines/exhaust forums like Steve suggests, lots of info. That's the passenger side rear 02 sensor telling you theres a problem - it's doing it's job.
Your leaking somewhere pretty bad if your still running both cats on that side. It takes allot to produce that code. If you replaced a sensor - it's easy to screw the O2 bungs up - it can't be avoided when the system is old and rusty. My rear converter split across the bottom on my 98 and leaked under the heat shield so I didn't notice until it got real bad. I found that a system can leak at the manifold and produce a low efficiency code. So it could be leaking anywhere before the Y on the passenger side. I doubt you have a brick problem , it's possible tho. - Check to see how hot the passenger side converters get in relation to drivers side after a 20 mile run. If it's substantially hotter , then it's nearly plugged and you have to replace. BTW - Fill your info in - I didn't look to the right to see what year and motor you have until I replied. If I have and seen that you didn't include this info , I wouldn't have replied. You need to fill that in (Top right corner) for more replies. |
PM me
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"No, I had the code for insufficient flow and never had another code with it and it was like that for months. I cleaned the ports and everything to see if that first code would clear and it never did. So I went ahead and bought the DPFE and that code went away, now this new P0420
comes up." In that case, your cat may be degraded to the point it needs replacing. Again, clear the code and see how quickly it returns. May need several drive cycles to determine if it truly need replacing. On other vehicles, I've seen the P0420 go away once the computer relearns after replacing parts that help control emissions. |
Which was is the best way to clear a code, disconnecting the battery or using a code reader? Ive heard some places where I read that disconnecting is not good because of some kind of longterm memory crap or something, I dunno. What are your thoughts on my case?
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If you have access to a code reader, that'd be the best way to clear. If you unhook the battery, you lose radio and clock settings. Too, having the code reader, you can check codes after a drive cycle to see if the P0420, or others, return.
A code reader is a good thing to have for all these newer vehicles. Not only does it allow YOU to see the codes and research the causes, but it allows you to reaffirm that dealerships and other services centers are not feeding you some BS. |
Here is a link to ebay with what i thought might be good for me. How do I know what size to get and if it is just 1 that is broken, should I just replace it or get both? Thanks
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-...3756.m20.l1116 |
Before you start replacing parts, first verfiy the part is bad. My suggestion is still to clear the P0420 and see how fast, or even if, it returns.
Like some others have suggested, do a "search" on this forum for "P0240" and read all the other suggestions to rule things out. As far as those cats go, I'm not familiar with that kind. But, they look to be "weld on" cats. In other words, someone will have to remove yours and weld those in place. I'm more of a OEM bolt on type a guy. All the cats I've changd out have been a 30 mintue type job. Usually 6 bolts, Three forward, three aft. Bolt up the replactment with new gaskets at each end, and go. Something you can do yourself in your driveway or garage. You could do a "search" on "high flow cats", or similar, and read what others have to say about those type of replacements. |
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