Sick of engine studder!!!

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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 07:32 PM
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Sick of engine studder!!!

I've replaced every COP, every spark plug, had steel inserts put into the heads for the spark plugs, fixed a pcv vaccum leak, inspected the injectors for damage and flow. My only guess is a sensor here or there to test and will do when I get more time next weekend, but I'm really wondering why my truck won't stop shuddering under acceleration and trying to maintain any speed between about 40 and 65 mph. Has anyone had this problem and found a different solution or and idea of what sensors to test to save me time. THANKS
 
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 07:35 PM
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What COPs and plugs did you use?
 
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 07:50 PM
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the COP's were from an ebay source suggested by f150online member JBREW... I used the autolite plugs cuz I wanted to keep things close to stock so I didn't throw any variables into things
 
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 09:05 PM
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Let me tell you my story.I to read all comments on this site about global COPs.So I bought them along with autolite plugs.Done this last may.Well still had my hesitation problem. SO i read on the forums some more about the autolite plugs were no good for these trucks.I purchased some motorcraft plugs hoping this would solve my problem. guess what it didnt so I to was in the same boat as you.Thought it might be a trans problem or Maf sensor.It wouldnt hesitate all the time.Also thought it might be a fuel problem.Eventually i read a post on here about someone having problems with global COPs.So I bit the the bullet and bought all new motorcraft COPs and some more new plugs.Problem solved so my opinion is OEM or nothing ever again.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 09:13 PM
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global...right those were them... I've been doing all this work and have some small increases, but main problem is still there. Maybe next month when I get the money I'll get the motorcraft plugs. Any advice on where to get them cheap... I'd rather not give ford all my money.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 10:25 PM
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i got all 8 motorcraft plugs at advanced auto for $21
 
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Old Mar 25, 2008 | 07:46 PM
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Thanks... I meant the COP pricing
 
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Old Mar 26, 2008 | 04:46 PM
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Know somebody in the parts dept at ford dealership helps I paid 50 $ a piece for them. seen them online for like 43$ thats the cheapist i have seen.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2008 | 10:10 PM
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You no doubt read some of my replies on the subject.
If you would have had your original coils stress tested and only replaced the one that was failing, a lot of expense and hassle could have been eliminated.
The idea of 'mass replacment' is flawed for this type of problem if just one new part is defective leaving you with the same, added or a new problem you don't recognize until you go round and round spending money on parts you don't need just to buy some luck in the end, then often you still don't know what the original problem was and begin to condem parts and makers of those parts without any sound provable basis.
 
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Old Mar 28, 2008 | 02:29 AM
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Blugrass is right, without actually testing/diagnosing in the first place, you may open up a whole new "can of worms", so to speak, without even touching on the original problem. I just can't stress enough to you guys the need for actually finding out what is going on before hanging parts on your trucks. If there are no codes in the computer, have a GOOD shop check mode6 and freeze frame data to see what the PCM has been logging all this time, sometimes it can come right out and slap you in the face with the exact fix if you know where to look. A modern PCM is basically like a "black box" on an airplane and records what it sees and does to correct or compensate for a malfunction (yes, I can also see if you have been speeding or not wearing your seatbelt on some of them). That itself is probably why I just don't come accross the repeat problems alot of the people on here see, I find out what it is first, check the rest and then, and only then, fix what is wrong. As far as what coils to use, I only replace the bad coil if there is one and the boots on the rest. Most misfires are just the boots themselves anyway which will "burn out" the coil if left unresolved, so if needed I'll usually buy a Motorcraft coil (my preference), but in some cases I will have to buy aftermarket, then I'll go to NAPA strictly for the warranty purposes, haven't needed it yet, but, they will pay my labor for the customer if it fails so, well you know.

Oh, use Motorcraft plugs only, these engines just prefer them, I can't explain why. Good luck with it and nice truck BTW.
 

Last edited by TECHDOC; Mar 28, 2008 at 02:32 AM.
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Old Mar 30, 2008 | 06:07 PM
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Thanks for all that advice... I'll see if a shop is willing or capable of checking out my "black box" In this town a lot of places prefer to do things there way and try and make me sound stupid. I do have one in mind though... About the COP change over. My previous advice was that it was best to do all at the same time, so that on isn't working any better than another and you get equal performance, and also to prevent another from burning out shortly after the change. But your right, it might not be the Global COP's I guess I'll only know when I get it fixed...Thanks to for the compliment, it's no badass truck, but it has it's moments.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2008 | 06:10 PM
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Have you checked the EGR system?
 
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Old Mar 30, 2008 | 06:12 PM
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I know I need to, don't have any electrical testers to do it, but I've read up on my book, so when I get paid I'm going to pick one up. All I understand is that I have to test the multiple sensors throughtout the system and for leaks...anything else?
 
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