sorry for posting again about P1131 codes guys.i have searched here and read about everything that pertains to P1131 code but it isnt solving my problems.
im gonna be precise as much as i can on this post so hopefully you guys can get the infos needed and hopefully be able to help me.

its a 5.4 on a 00 expedition with a custom tune set for procharger with 9PSI.42lb injectors that was installed last october with NGK TR6 plugs.

just got the code P1131 bout 2-3 weeks ago and the trucks run slightly rough when put in gear.its shaking and feels like its camming.(it has stock cams)
i already cleaned my MAF and checked my PCV valve and its all good.
questions..
1.when i reset my ECU..the truck runs fine until the CEL comes on then it starts running rough.would bad O2 sensor cause bad idling?it idles fine when its on park tho.
2.should i go ahead ad change my passenger side upstream O2 sensor since thats about the only thing i havent checked/changed yet that also pertains to the code P1131
3.could a bad O2 sensor cause a trcuk to run rough?it shakes when i hit the gas from a stop and when im moving and just wanna pass another car.it feels like its not getting enough gas as i step on the pedal.i have to step a little harder until the trans shift just to pass a car.
i know for sure that im not having any fuel issues since i can see from my fuel pressure gauge that it is getting alot of fuel.
need help bad.im getting tired of this problem and dont know what else to do.
thankz in advance guys.

 

Have you checked the EGR system, and the intake gaskets?

 

DTCs P1131, P1132, P1151 AND P1152: UPSTREAM HO2S NOT SWITCHING.

HO2S-11 = DTCs P1131, P1132 and P1130

Check intake air system for leaks, obstructions and damage.
Check air cleaner element, air cleaner housing for blockage.
Verify integrity of the PCV system.
Check for vacuum leaks.
Are any of the above concerns present?

DO you have access to any live data or just the codes? Specifically do you know what the fuel trims are doing? A bad sensor will give you this kind of grief, but something upstream from the senosr will do it as well...basically the PCM is seeing the sensor flat lined...see above....VAC leaks, bad MAF, possible EGR, etc.....

 

@JOSH..
ill check the EGR system and the intake gasket.thanks for the advice.

@fordtech1...
i already cleaned/checked all that you mentioned theyre all good.i dont have access to live data tho.just the codes read from autozone.thanks for the advice tho.

question...will a bad O2 sensor cause my truck to studer when im driving and fed more gas to speed up?and also shake(like camming) when on a stop light?like what i said before tho...when its on park..it idles just fine but you can feel the engines nothesitates a little when you rev it.theres like a split second delay for the engine to rev when i hit the gas from park.when i put it on gear..the idle goes a little rough eventhou the RPM is steady on 700RPM.

 

HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR (HO2S) MONITOR - HO2S LACK OF SWITCHING
Diagnostic Trouble Code Description Possible Causes
P1130 - Lack of HO2S-11 Switch, Fuel Trim at Limit The HEGO Sensor is monitored for switching. The code will set when the HO2S fails to switch due to circuit or fuel at or exceeding a calibrated limit. Electrical:
· Short to VPWR or VREF in harness or HO2S
· HO2S circuit shorted to Ground
· Water in harness connector
· Open circuit
· Corrosion or poor mating terminals and wiring
· Damaged HO2S
· Damaged PCM (other DTCs should be present)
Fuel System:
· Excessive fuel pressure (stuck fuel pressure regulator, restricted fuel return lines, etc.)
· Leaking/contaminated fuel injectors or fuel pressure regulator
· Low fuel pressure or running out of fuel (fuel pump concern, fuel supply line restrictions, low fuel level, etc.)
· Vapor recovery system (stuck VMV, etc.)
Induction System:
· MAF contamination
· Air leaks between MAF and throttle plate
· PCV system / Other vacuum leaks
· Improperly seated engine oil dipstick
EGR System:
· Leaking gasket
· Stuck EGR valve / Leaking diaphragm or EVR
Base Engine:
· Oil overfill
· Incorrect cylinder compression
· Exhaust leaks before or near the HO2S
· Secondary air stuck on


HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR (HO2S) MONITOR - HO2S LACK OF SWITCHING
Diagnostic Trouble Code Description Possible Causes
P1131 - Lack of HO2S-11 Switch, Indicates Lean When an HO2S sensor indicates lean at the end of a test, the system is trying to correct for an over-lean condition. The code is set when the fuel control system no longer detects switching for a calibrated amount of time. See Possible Causes for DTC P1130


Just what the doctor ordered. A diagnostic tree for 113X codes.

It's a little rough, but here's the page otherwise:

http://www.v8sho.com/SHO/TSB0197HO2SServiceTips.htm

 

A front sensor that is not switching could be faulty, it's not un-common.

A front sensor that is not switching could be okay, even if DTCs are generated.

As already said - Check the Long Term Fuel Trims (LTFT) - they may be consistently positive caused by an air leak, or either negative or positive by a faulty fuel pressure regulator, or negative caused by a faulty MAF sensor.

Drivability Concerns

If the front sensor has failed the you may experience hesitation at speed, clearing when the accelerator is depressed slightly - rough running, particularly when first selecting drive and on change of load, heavy fuel consumption (resulting from open loop fuelling) and a black exhaust pipe.

 

thanks for all the suggestions,guys.
heres what ive done so far and the truck is still running like crap and it still threw the P1131 code after a few miles of driving.

1.cleaned the throttle body - it wasnt that dirty at all when i first took it off but i cleaned it anyways and all the little holes inside of it to make sure its all clear and not plugged up
2.cleaned the IAC
3.cleaned the MAF
4.check the EGR valve - i took the green line off and use a straw and sucked it and the idle changed(almst dying) so that part is good
5.checked the PCV valve for any leaks- everything checked out fine.
6.changed the passenger side front O2 sensor - this helped a little bit bout the rough idle and shaking when accelirating but the shake and hesitation is till there.

questions

1.if i am having misfire..shouldnt it throw a different code?it feels like i have 1 dead cylinder or a dead coil or a dead plug but its not throwing any codes directly towards any of this.

2.how do i check if my EGR is good besides doing the straw suck method?

3.how do i check if my IAC is good or bad?

4.how do i check if a coil is bad without chcking all of them?is there a way of finding out which coil is bad without throwing any codes?

5.what and where is the long term fuel trim(LTFT) and how do i checked it if its good or bad?

5.how to check if the MAF is good?

@jbrew..
i read in other posts here that its best to use motorcraft sparkplugs for this engines(5.4) since this engine is picky.im using NGK TR6 on mine right now cause im running a supercharger.would that be okay to use or would/can you recommend a better sparkplug for this engine with superchargers?

again..thanks for all the suggestions and help guys.

 

A misfire will set a P030X code, x being the number of the cylinder that is bad. It has to go above a certain percentage of misfires before it will set the code. If you can access the OBD II mode 6 data you could see the percentages of each individual cylinder.

It doesn't sound like an IAC problem, that would cause a stall.

You could try disabling individual cylinders to see if the problem worsens or stays the same to try to isolate it down to one cylinder. It's more like a shot in the dark doing it that way, but possible if you can feel the difference and IF it is just a misfire.

The EGR valve itself sounds like it is functioning properly, what you described should have been what happened.

If you could get the BARO reading of the MAF, which is live data unless someone knows a way to vie it otherwise, you would know if it was bad or not, also backprobing the signal and signal return circuits would give an indication, I don't have the specs for the voltage values handy at this moment but I can get them....

The LTFT is live data

Honestly finding someone with a high end scan tool may be what you need to fix this if you can't get it figured out
I'm a lot better at analyzing live data, someone else might be of better help for you as far as trying to figure it out "in the driveway" Hope some of this helps out

 

@fordtech..
thanks for the post.i have the chilton manual (somewhere in my house) and ill try to read the voltages for the EGR,MAF,IAC,PDFE and see whats up.im just trying to do everything i can possibly do before hitting the stealership for a diagnose or using a high end scanner tool(i dont know anybody who has one except the stealership).

while im at ait...is there anthing else you can recommend i check for voltages,clogs and how to check them?

thanks again for the reply.

 

You going to have to pull the TR6's and check them for possible evidence leading to discovery.

TR6's are just about the perfect plug for your setup, but check the torque before you remove. A guy had a very bad problem with them loosening up on him after install. This has ONLY happened to one user in the past that I know of; so that might have just been an install problem on his part and not the plugs. NGK definitely knows how to make plugs and has for many many years.

Yea , you might want to make sure your running a "Motorcraft" PCV valve - There is know substitute as far as I know. After market PCV valves are VERY restrictive and has caused issues like this on in the past.

Make sure your wiring harness is NOT resting on the AC accumulator. If it's close enough, the EM field will freak out the ignition system. That use to be a very common problem on the 97- 99 models and could very well be your.

Tie the harness away from the accumulator.