5.4L spark plug change - penetrating lubricant options
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5.4L spark plug change - penetrating lubricant options
Kroil is highly recommended and has a dedicated group of supporters. So I ordered AeroKroil last week direct from manufacturer and it still hasn't arrived.
would like to replace all plugs and COPs tonight but am waiting on Kroil to arrive
It Kroil really any better than something readily available almost anywhere such as PB Blaster
would like to replace all plugs and COPs tonight but am waiting on Kroil to arrive
It Kroil really any better than something readily available almost anywhere such as PB Blaster
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 275
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From: Vancouver, Canada
I know a few mechanics who swear by the stuff. One of the Ford Mechanics on this forum says he uses PB Blaster. You can also get Ford Carb Cleaner as per the new TSB. I believe the AeroKroil is a ultra low viscocity so it will penetrate alot better. I wouldn't worry too much about the brand. Just give it a good soaking. I am going to soak mine over night when I do the plugs.
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Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Vancouver, Canada
Originally Posted by full_tilt
Kroil is highly recommended and has a dedicated group of supporters. So I ordered AeroKroil last week direct from manufacturer and it still hasn't arrived.
would like to replace all plugs and COPs tonight but am waiting on Kroil to arrive
It Kroil really any better than something readily available almost anywhere such as PB Blaster
would like to replace all plugs and COPs tonight but am waiting on Kroil to arrive
It Kroil really any better than something readily available almost anywhere such as PB Blaster
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 266
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From: NewYork
Think about it....PLease!!!
Take a minute here guys.
Look at your spark plugs, past the threads going up is a ??? tapered seat, yes thats right. And it does what?, seal to the aluminum head to prevent combustion from blowing past the plug.
If you had a stuck bolt and needed a good spray oil, OK. But the simple fact is that the oil wont go past the seal made by the torque of the plug against the aluminum. Yes, I'd bet that when you pull the plug out, there is oil on the threads. Thats the oil sitting above the tappered before loostening it.
But this aside, PLEASE do let your engines cool "overnight I like to do" before a plug change. And use antisieze on the new plug threads. Also use dielectric grease within the tip of the COP as well as a small amount around where it seals up on the head.
Lowflyingbird
Look at your spark plugs, past the threads going up is a ??? tapered seat, yes thats right. And it does what?, seal to the aluminum head to prevent combustion from blowing past the plug.
If you had a stuck bolt and needed a good spray oil, OK. But the simple fact is that the oil wont go past the seal made by the torque of the plug against the aluminum. Yes, I'd bet that when you pull the plug out, there is oil on the threads. Thats the oil sitting above the tappered before loostening it.
But this aside, PLEASE do let your engines cool "overnight I like to do" before a plug change. And use antisieze on the new plug threads. Also use dielectric grease within the tip of the COP as well as a small amount around where it seals up on the head.
Lowflyingbird
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From: UPINYA
Originally Posted by lowflyingbird
Take a minute here guys.
Look at your spark plugs, past the threads going up is a ??? tapered seat, yes thats right. And it does what?, seal to the aluminum head to prevent combustion from blowing past the plug.
If you had a stuck bolt and needed a good spray oil, OK. But the simple fact is that the oil wont go past the seal made by the torque of the plug against the aluminum. Yes, I'd bet that when you pull the plug out, there is oil on the threads. Thats the oil sitting above the tappered before loostening it.
But this aside, PLEASE do let your engines cool "overnight I like to do" before a plug change. And use antisieze on the new plug threads. Also use dielectric grease within the tip of the COP as well as a small amount around where it seals up on the head.
Lowflyingbird
Look at your spark plugs, past the threads going up is a ??? tapered seat, yes thats right. And it does what?, seal to the aluminum head to prevent combustion from blowing past the plug.
If you had a stuck bolt and needed a good spray oil, OK. But the simple fact is that the oil wont go past the seal made by the torque of the plug against the aluminum. Yes, I'd bet that when you pull the plug out, there is oil on the threads. Thats the oil sitting above the tappered before loostening it.
But this aside, PLEASE do let your engines cool "overnight I like to do" before a plug change. And use antisieze on the new plug threads. Also use dielectric grease within the tip of the COP as well as a small amount around where it seals up on the head.
Lowflyingbird
Go back, INVESTIGATE THE FORD TSB ON PLUG REMOVAL AND THE SUCSESS STORIES!
OH, BTW, "WELCOME TO EARTH, THIRD ROCK FROM THE SUN!!!"
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Joined: Jan 2008
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From: PA
I have been using the PM-3 ( Ford carb cleaner) as per the TSB and haven't broken one yet....that stuff is great for breaking down carbon buildup, we use it for an engine top clean all the time......
I guess I didn't realize it wasn't penetrating past the threads though...
That funny looking tapered seat sure does look all carboned up from the combustion though ? Wonder how it got like that? What do I know though right?????
I guess I didn't realize it wasn't penetrating past the threads though...
That funny looking tapered seat sure does look all carboned up from the combustion though ? Wonder how it got like that? What do I know though right?????
Last edited by FordTech1; Mar 11, 2008 at 08:20 PM.
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From: ft. laud., fla
do ya think maybe Ford has a lot of carb cleaner on their hands because of EFI ? Why wouldn't Gumout carb cleaner or any of the other brands on the shelf at the local parts supply joint do the same job ?
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Senior Member
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From: PA
We have a case of it on the shelf, we use it to "decarbonize" the combustion chambers on high mileage motors..."top clean"......It's not just for carbs.....I haven't personally tried Gumout, I did use some BG penetrating oil once but the PM-3 worked better. I'm sticking with what's working for me.
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Joined: Oct 2005
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From: MI
Originally Posted by FordTech1
We have a case of it on the shelf, we use it to "decarbonize" the combustion chambers on high mileage motors..."top clean"......It's not just for carbs.....I haven't personally tried Gumout, I did use some BG penetrating oil once but the PM-3 worked better. I'm sticking with what's working for me.
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From: PA
Sure can....I believe PM-3 is the Motorcraft number....shouldn't have a problem getting it if your local dealer does not have it in stock. We get 2 shipments of Motorcraft stuff daily and we are a small dealership.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 277
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From: Michigan
I'm just gonna get a can of carb cleaner from the parts store when I do mine this summer.Carb cleaner just makes more sense to use to dissolve the carbon buildup any way.I thought that when I first read the original TSB.If it was rusted then yeh I would have agreed with the kroil.
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 277
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From: San Antonio, TX
Originally Posted by hootdangmac
DUDE! Did you just land here from Mars???
Go back, INVESTIGATE THE FORD TSB ON PLUG REMOVAL AND THE SUCSESS STORIES!
OH, BTW, "WELCOME TO EARTH, THIRD ROCK FROM THE SUN!!!"
Go back, INVESTIGATE THE FORD TSB ON PLUG REMOVAL AND THE SUCSESS STORIES!
OH, BTW, "WELCOME TO EARTH, THIRD ROCK FROM THE SUN!!!"
lowflyingbird is right. You need to break that seat seal to be able to get that fluid to the electrode where the problem is. NOT THE THREADS. It also the emgine needs to be warm "hand touch after cooling down"
If you have a TSB that supercedes it I will glad to hear it.
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Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Vancouver, Canada
Originally Posted by lowflyingbird
Take a minute here guys.
Look at your spark plugs, past the threads going up is a ??? tapered seat, yes thats right. And it does what?, seal to the aluminum head to prevent combustion from blowing past the plug.
If you had a stuck bolt and needed a good spray oil, OK. But the simple fact is that the oil wont go past the seal made by the torque of the plug against the aluminum. Yes, I'd bet that when you pull the plug out, there is oil on the threads. Thats the oil sitting above the tappered before loostening it.
But this aside, PLEASE do let your engines cool "overnight I like to do" before a plug change. And use antisieze on the new plug threads. Also use dielectric grease within the tip of the COP as well as a small amount around where it seals up on the head.
Lowflyingbird
Look at your spark plugs, past the threads going up is a ??? tapered seat, yes thats right. And it does what?, seal to the aluminum head to prevent combustion from blowing past the plug.
If you had a stuck bolt and needed a good spray oil, OK. But the simple fact is that the oil wont go past the seal made by the torque of the plug against the aluminum. Yes, I'd bet that when you pull the plug out, there is oil on the threads. Thats the oil sitting above the tappered before loostening it.
But this aside, PLEASE do let your engines cool "overnight I like to do" before a plug change. And use antisieze on the new plug threads. Also use dielectric grease within the tip of the COP as well as a small amount around where it seals up on the head.
Lowflyingbird
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 275
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From: Vancouver, Canada
Originally Posted by tim98
I have TSB # 06-15-2 right in front of me. It says, "Back out the spark plugs, no more than 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn. Apply penetrating oil (aerokroil or equivelant) and fill the spark plug well just above where the jam nut hex sits.....soak time 5-10mins.......oil will wick down to the ground electrode...."
lowflyingbird is right. You need to break that seat seal to be able to get that fluid to the electrode where the problem is. NOT THE THREADS. It also the emgine needs to be warm "hand touch after cooling down"
If you have a TSB that supercedes it I will glad to hear it.
lowflyingbird is right. You need to break that seat seal to be able to get that fluid to the electrode where the problem is. NOT THE THREADS. It also the emgine needs to be warm "hand touch after cooling down"
If you have a TSB that supercedes it I will glad to hear it.
http://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricant...d/tsb/0819.pdf
