Please elaborate. I pulled the water pump everything fine there. Radiator is clear. I'm looking at 900 dollars to do the head gaskets so , any other ideas will be looked into. I would do the work myself but time and special tools are the problem. Thanks Randy

 

Elaborate please.I pulled thw water pump it's fine. Radiator is clear.It's going to cost me 900 dollars for headgasket replacement. I could do it my self but time and special tools are a problem. Thanks Randy

 

Reread post #13. You need to positively determine whether it's exhaust gases that are getting in there. Just because it's burping air does not mean that it's exhaust gases - it could very easily be a simple air lock as I already suggested. I think there is a specific procedure for "burping" these systems with degas bottles, but on other vehicles I've been able to do it by simply leaving the cap off and letting it idle through several thermostat opening/closing cycles, keeping the fluid close to full.

 

Latest installment in this saga.I acquired a NAPA tool for checking for hydrocarbons in coolant. It has a liquid in it that turns yellow if hydrocarbons are present. Let the truck set outside for about an hour idling with radiator cap off to bring it to operating temp. Done the test seven times, according to tool no hydrocarbons are present. There is hase that comes out the top of intake and goes to heater core. I can feel a gurgling in this hose. Should I be looking for some sort of intake leak? No visible signs of coolant any where on motor or ground. Thanks Randy

 

Heres the procedure I have -

Bleeding

1. Select maximum heater temperature and blower motor speed settings. Position control to discharge air at A/C vents in the instrument panel.
2. Start engine and allow to idle. While engine is idling, feel for hot air at A/C vents.

CAUTION: If the air discharge remains cool and the engine coolant temperature gauge does not move, the engine coolant level is low in the engine and must be filled. Stop the engine, allow to cool and fill the cooling system as described.

3. Start the engine and allow to idle until normal operating temperature is reached. Hot air should discharge from the A/C vents. The engine coolant temperature gauge should maintain a stabilized reading in the middle of the NORMAL range and the upper radiator hose should feel hot to the touch.
4. Shut the engine off and allow it to cool.
5. Check the engine for coolant leaks.
6. Check the engine coolant level in the degas bottle and fill as necessary.


I have to bleed mine STILL !! Mines been gurgling for about a year now , geezzz.

 

Ok, over the course of the last week or two I have been thru that procedure maybe 6 times maybe, not word for word but been thru several warmup cycles. Tonight it idled for an hour while doing the above test. I'm beginning to think it's drawing air into system as it sits overnight. Sitting here thinking that the only thing different between your procedure and what I've been doing is I don't have blower at full speed. I was ready to take the thing in today to have heads pulled. That would be a bummer..... pull heads nothin wrong I will keep trying. Thanks Randy

 

The kit you have is highly accurate. Your problem definitely lies elsewhere. What about the heater core hoses? Are they hot or cold when this is happenning? IF cold what about the upper radiator hose when this occurs?

 

Heater hose will warm up with motor until it gets the air bubble then it cools off burps, then warms up again. Top hose warms up and stays warm till engine is shut off then cools normally. Thanks Randy

 

What is crimped inside of the heater hose that comes up out of intake and goes to heater core? Randy

 

Do you know anyone or have access to a pressure tester for the cooling system?

 

Don't worry about that , that's just a brass reducer. Actually, it should be in the hose that's attatched to your water pump hard line. Not the manifold hose.

 

It will hold 16 lbs. of pressure on the cooling system for what seems like for ever. That was one of the first things I checked. Randy

 

it might be worth having it checked with an exhaust gas analyzer.

I have sucessfully used the hose in a bottle of water technique. but before I spent 900 I would spend $65 for havin g a mechanic check for exhaust gases.

 

Keep at it - it sounds to me like there is still air in the system that has to be burped out of it somehow. If a pressure test holds @ 16 you don't have a leak.