hesitation at 35 thru 50 mph
hesitation at 35 thru 50 mph
I changed all my coils and plugs,still getting hesitation at 35 thru 50 mph in over drive.Need to no if I can check each coil seperate and how to do it.
I am about to let ford take care of it but my cash flow just about gets me from week to week.
Thank's Joe:santa:
p.s....the plastic black cover that sits over thr throttle plate cracked in half,whats the name of that cover.
I am about to let ford take care of it but my cash flow just about gets me from week to week.
Thank's Joe:santa:
p.s....the plastic black cover that sits over thr throttle plate cracked in half,whats the name of that cover.
Last edited by Joe Styles; Dec 26, 2007 at 04:53 PM.
If your discribing a light throttle stumble in that speed range only; there is still a very high chance you have one or more bad coils if it dosn't set a code or lamp.
New coils are still no gaurentee if the problem is still present.
No use trying to make any measurment because you can't detect the faulty coil.
It is low output, not no output. Only a dealer stress test will pick out the poor coil/s.
Always a remote chance it might be water in the gas or a bad injector operation.
There is only so much you can do before help is needed with testing unless you get lucky.
New coils are still no gaurentee if the problem is still present.
No use trying to make any measurment because you can't detect the faulty coil.
It is low output, not no output. Only a dealer stress test will pick out the poor coil/s.
Always a remote chance it might be water in the gas or a bad injector operation.
There is only so much you can do before help is needed with testing unless you get lucky.
Originally Posted by Bluegrass
If your discribing a light throttle stumble in that speed range only; there is still a very high chance you have one or more bad coils if it dosn't set a code or lamp.
New coils are still no gaurentee if the problem is still present.
No use trying to make any measurment because you can't detect the faulty coil.
It is low output, not no output. Only a dealer stress test will pick out the poor coil/s.
Always a remote chance it might be water in the gas or a bad injector operation.
There is only so much you can do before help is needed with testing unless you get lucky.
New coils are still no gaurentee if the problem is still present.
No use trying to make any measurment because you can't detect the faulty coil.
It is low output, not no output. Only a dealer stress test will pick out the poor coil/s.
Always a remote chance it might be water in the gas or a bad injector operation.
There is only so much you can do before help is needed with testing unless you get lucky.
Will they tell me where the problem is so I can take care of it or do you think they will say we have to find it and fix it for an hourly fee.
THANKS AGAIN
I had a similar problem when I replaced my coils and yes one was bad just like Bluegrass said. Ford dealer charged me about 70 bucks for the diagnosis. They also moved the bad coil from #8 to #1 and that made fixing it much easier. just tell them to diagnose it and they'll do it.
Originally Posted by Joe Styles
Thanks,I needed to no that before I take it over to ford.
Will they tell me where the problem is so I can take care of it or do you think they will say we have to find it and fix it for an hourly fee.
THANKS AGAIN
Will they tell me where the problem is so I can take care of it or do you think they will say we have to find it and fix it for an hourly fee.
THANKS AGAIN
You can stress test a coil yourself , but it's a little complex and you need a pulse probe and run some wiring in order to monitor during a drive cycle. Bench testing only tests Primary and Secondary which really doesn't help.
The easier way and your best bet is what Bluegrass said, let the dealer stress test.
However, you could force the Misfire Monitor to run in order to detect a the low grade misfire.
To do this you need to reboot and erase the KAM. (Disconnect the battery for 20 minutes) . Drive-cycle - Speed up to 60mph normally (1/2 throttle) - Take your foot off the gas and DON'T touch the brakes - let it decel down 40mph on it's own. Do this twice within the same drive-cycle (It doesn't have to be consecutive, just within the same cycle)..
The Misfire Monitor is now running if done as described. Now hold acceleration (while driving) as much as you can where it's missing. Watch for a blinking light to appear, you have set a code once this is accomplished.
The easier way and your best bet is what Bluegrass said, let the dealer stress test.
However, you could force the Misfire Monitor to run in order to detect a the low grade misfire.
To do this you need to reboot and erase the KAM. (Disconnect the battery for 20 minutes) . Drive-cycle - Speed up to 60mph normally (1/2 throttle) - Take your foot off the gas and DON'T touch the brakes - let it decel down 40mph on it's own. Do this twice within the same drive-cycle (It doesn't have to be consecutive, just within the same cycle)..
The Misfire Monitor is now running if done as described. Now hold acceleration (while driving) as much as you can where it's missing. Watch for a blinking light to appear, you have set a code once this is accomplished.
Last edited by jbrew; Dec 28, 2007 at 09:46 PM.
Originally Posted by jbrew
You can stress test a coil yourself , but it's a little complex and you need a pulse probe and run some wiring in order to monitor during a drive cycle. Bench testing only tests Primary and Secondary which really doesn't help.
The easier way and your best bet is what Bluegrass said, let the dealer stress test.
However, you could force the Misfire Monitor to run in order to detect a the low grade misfire.
To do this you need to reboot and erase the KAM. (Disconnect the battery for 20 minutes) . Drive-cycle - Speed up to 60mph normally (1/2 throttle) - Take your foot off the gas and DON'T touch the brakes - let it decel down 40mph on it's own. Do this twice within the same drive-cycle (It doesn't have to be consecutive, just within the same cycle)..
The Misfire Monitor is now running if done as described. Now hold acceleration (while driving) as much as you can where it's missing. Watch for a blinking light to appear, you have set a code once this is accomplished.
The easier way and your best bet is what Bluegrass said, let the dealer stress test.
However, you could force the Misfire Monitor to run in order to detect a the low grade misfire.
To do this you need to reboot and erase the KAM. (Disconnect the battery for 20 minutes) . Drive-cycle - Speed up to 60mph normally (1/2 throttle) - Take your foot off the gas and DON'T touch the brakes - let it decel down 40mph on it's own. Do this twice within the same drive-cycle (It doesn't have to be consecutive, just within the same cycle)..
The Misfire Monitor is now running if done as described. Now hold acceleration (while driving) as much as you can where it's missing. Watch for a blinking light to appear, you have set a code once this is accomplished.
Thanks alot Joe


