ok so after my dealer replaced the head gasket for me (for free ) i noticed more moisture building in the oil neck, i think i found an awnser.

the problem: moisture building up in the filler neck and mixing with small amounts of oil making the engine flavored milkshake.

I went to autozone and looked around, happened to find the oil breathers and filter elements area. i noticed a small one that looked like it would work.

you will need a grommet (just above the small filter element on the shelf near all the chrome engine trim stuff) the grommet is for a valve cover but it works in this case.

heres some part numbers.
the filter: 3995
http://www.autozone.com/selectedZip,.../selectZip.htm

the grommet: 5343 (comes in a two pack)
http://www.autozone.com/R,NONAPP1082...ductDetail.htm


the end result:


the idea so far. moisture has no way to get out of the engine, because even the oil cap has a seal on it. It can be "boiled" off inside the engine but in a sealed system it really has nowhere to go. So i thought this may help the problem many f150 owners seem to have. i tried it and drove the truck all day with NO CEL or any abnormal problems. the theroy is the moisture will get trapped in the element as the hot air pushes it upward. as the engine cools after you park it the filter will dry to a point. Yes i realize it can allow more moisture in but that will also get trapped in the filter element. and since the makeup of this filter is similar to a K&N you can simply was and reoil when you do yoru main air filter.
---DO NOT WASH THE VEHICLE ENGINE COMPARTMENT WITH THIS INSTALLED!!!!----
what do ya think?

 

Why do I think this will cause a lean code to appear? I'm not knocking this idea but somethings not wright. I have seen several Lightnings at the track with smaller filters on the PCV.

 

thats not the pcv, thats the oil filler neck. drove all day at city and highway speeds no issues no lights. ive done this before on a 94 2.3L ranger i had, worked real well there too.
but if you or anyone can imporve on this feel free. im not dead set on it for anything other than reliving a moisture issue these engines seem to have.

 

Have you not realized that the motor has a positive crank case ventilation system (PCV) that vents the internal motor area?
If it needs service or there is a problem, then you may indeed have the results you have.
Hows come the rest of us don't need your mod?
What oil? are you changing it at at least 5000 mile intervals?, are you running the truck long enough each time to allow the motor to heat enough to do a job of venting? Have you made any other changes that defeat the PCV system?
Was all the coolant removed from the pan due to the motor work and you are seeing a temporary situation?
The milky accumulation is generally moisture wipped in with the oil by products and condenses on the coolest parts such as the full tube that sticks up in the air stream.
If you have this milk appearence in the oil out of the pan, then you have a valid concern.
Btw, the PCV is part of the intake air system and your mod 'could be' detected by the PCM as a leak that upsets the idle and a/f mix the OX sensors see. Even the dip stick has a seal when it's set down on the tube.
I'm not trying to argue the point but to make you awhere you don't have a closed crankcase to the extent you think.

 

X2!!

Have you changed your PCV at all? We might sound crazy, but, these little buggers will mess with your world if they are not working properly. TRUST ME!!! Took a long headace to make me believe it!

:edited: I have noticed the milky film under my cap! It is nothing to worry about till the milk is coming out the oil pan. I learned that from this site!!!

 

hehe yes i realize it has a venting system, though the buildup in the filler neck tells me that area just has issues. and as im sure you know "the shortest distance between two points is a straight line" if the moisture wants out and thats how its going then ill let it until something shows me different.

no i havent defeated the PCV in any way, just changed out the valve and (due do dealer screwup) replaced about 80% of the egr system they paid for that.

i did have a head gasket problem before, but when i initally posted about the head gasket with pics, JBREW stated the moisture is normal. i personally have never owned a vheicle this has been present on before.

as for warming the truck up, yes and no. i let it idle 5 mins or so before i leave for work then as im getting to work its just hitting operating temp or been there a few mins (if i catch a light)

i believe the whipped oil/ moisture mix is due to the cam/ rocker being directly below the filler and splashing oil up in the tube, a place moisture seemingly collects because of where/ how high up it is.

i never said anyone needed this mod, just that its out there if you have an issue with moisture. i have had this installed all day and no problems. only time will tell if it works like i hope it will.

one thing that does puzzle me somewhat is if i removed the filler neck, would this milky crap be inside the valve cover or would the action of the cam and rockers keep it from building up? i mean honestly the neck is merely a convienence item so i dont spill when adding oil.

 

heck! you might as well jam a grease rag in there.

 

 

i did that before i added this, had to get the old crap out first.

hey torkum, that popcorn have extra butter?

 

All I can say is Bluegrass has spoken and he knows what he is talking about.

 

Look at the warm-up and drive cycle discription.
It's not enough heat, nor long enough, in high humidity, lower temp conditions.

 

im not arguing with bluegrass at all, just dont see why this is such a bad idea...

where would i find the warm up info you speak of bluegrass? is it a search here or some ford site?

 

It's not a matter of finding but making sure enough drive time is being done on any vehicle to give the motor a chance to purge the crank case.
During off/setting times, ambient conditions take over each time and you begin again from a cold start. This is one reason for keeping a closed system is the better thing to do.
You could be injesting moisture right thru your filter and not really accomplishing anything.
More specificly, the PCV system works as follows; air is taken in at some point between the air filter and the throttle body so it is clean dirt free air.
The intake vacuum connection pulls this air thru a controlled leak called a PCV valve of some sort, thru the crank case thus including contaminate and products of combustion.
The 'controlled leak' is accounted for in PCM programming. If flow is to great, a code could be set for leaness. This is why the dip stick to it's tube has a tight rubber seal to prevent extra air from upsetting the 'calibrated ' system.
I know it's difficult with your drive to work being just under the time and distance needed, but that's life for some of us.
I have seen this milk condition many times over the years in all kinds of motors but it isn't a perment condition unless there is a coolant leak into the crankcase.
Blown head gaskets, leaking intake gaskets, cracked block will all do the same if run long enough to see the results in the oil.
What tends to aggravate the milk condition is the motor runs richer on cold start and running, generating more blowby products that reacts with the moisture in the crankcase, then you see the results on the colder surface areas.
Im't just bringing the pros and cons of the issue and how the motor is equipped and why, from the factory.
In some cases, the battery may not even get fully recharged in those short running times. This in it'self shortens battery life.
Good luck.

 

The PCV causes a slight vacuum in the interior of the engine so that when contaminates are formed, they go directly to the PCV and are burned off and out the tailpipe. Any blowby goes directly to the PVC as well. You just cancelled all that the Ford engineers designed by putting this on your engine. The results will be more sludge forming on the inside of the engine especially at the OHCs. You probably will have shorter valve train life and in the summer time, hot spots may be an issue you will never be aware of until it's too late. I understand what you are trying to do but what you have put on your engine is a step backwards. I wouldn't be surprized that you state inspection station doesn't turn you down for emmissions compliance. You have modified the emmissions system and should there be an engine failure- your fault or not- you have voided your warranty, if you have any left. I can only hope you don't have an after market cold air system.

 

thanks for the replies, seems my only awnser is to get a remote start and let the truck sit longer warming up because i really dont feel like sitting in a freezing truck waiting for it to warm up that long :/