I have a 2000 F150 V-8 5.4L It is a 4X4 extended cab Short bed. 115,000 mi.

History: About 2 years ago I started getting a rough running engine under load The engine light would go on then off. So I changed the fuel filter.
This did not help.

So I bought a code reader and found it was a multiple cylinder misfire. I change the plugs and it ran ok for a couple of days. The same problem existed but there was no codes. I thought if there was a problem with the engine than surely I would get a code. I began to think it was a tranny problem so I read all sorts of horror stories about flushing transmissions and problems after. So I dropped the the pan and the pan was spotless inside. I then added new fluid and then had the tranny flushed at the Ford dealership a week later.

I still had the problem missing under load. I did not want to replace all the COPS due to cost so I ran it hard trying to draw a code to see which Cylinder was the problem. Finally it came up at the 5 cylinder. I changed out the COP and the problem was back a week later. I thought it would be cracked boots so I put the dielectric grease inside the boots to help them seal. This did not do the trick so I then bought a set of boots for all the COPS and have not had a chance to install them yet.

I then started experiencing the engine engine shutting off. The engine would start to race like it was out of gear the guages would go crazy and the engine would shut down. I would put it in N while coasting and restart the engine and be on my merry way. But still I would have the missfire symptoms.

The Truck is garaged in another state and I get to it about every 2 weeks. On one trip I found that it wouldn't start. Cranked but no start. I then figured it was the fuel pump and removed the small test valve on the fuel rail hooked up a hose to see if the pump was working. I seemed to be working because everytime I turned the key to on fuel would come out of the hose for a little bit then stop. I figured this was probably normal as if you lost pressure the fuel would probably have some sort of relay shut down. I then put everything back together and the truck fired right up.

Still I have the problems of misfire symptoms no light or codes. About a month ago I ran the truck and it ran pretty good, little bit of misfire no shut downs.

2 weeks ago the truck ran like ***** and shut down and I couldn't get it started. I had it towed 2 hours later still no start , when the truck got to the shop it started up. The mechanic read the codes and it read security issue. He said he could not legally work on a security issue and he would have to have the ford garage work on it if it happened again.

This is not my primary vehicle due to it's unreliablity and he has not checked it out since.

The only other issue I have with the vehicle is a leaking exhaust manifold.

Can anyone help me to advise the mechanic where to start looking for problems.

Can it be a key problem? I have 2 keys problems with both.

Fuel Pump issue. Isn't there a code for this.

Crank position sensor?

Misfire??

The code reader I bought is an ACTRON and it cost over $300 so I think it would be a decent one. It reads realtime diagnostics but I don't realy know what to look for.

I have a technician type job and am not a complete idiot and can fix most things if I know what to look for. Engines are not my thing since they started running computers.

Please Help.
Thanks

 

Wlcome aboard.

I'd be checking the fuel pressure with a gauge to see if you're loosing fuel supply. You won't get a code for this. You want around 35-45 psi while running. A two-second fuel pump cycle is expected when the key is first turned on, it's normal.

If you have a PATS issue, you should have the THEFT light flashing at you. PATS will disable the ignition system if triggered.

A misfire (while you may still have one) shouldn't keep the engine from starting or to kill the engine.

It's really going to be necessary to see if you can isolate the no fire condition to be fuel, air, or spark related.

Steve

 

To all: Thanks for all your help so far. A mechanic friend of mine has been checking into truck problem 8 hrs. away. He has been in contact with the local Ford mechanic at the local dealership.

The fuel pressure was checked and it is ok.
The crank position sensor was changed and that was not it.
The #4 cylinder set off a misfire and all the boots were changed on the COPS.
The problem still exsists and they think that the problem might be with the Speedometer Cluster Assembly..
It appears that at around 47 MPH all the gauges shut down the Odometer goes to dashes (blank).

They think that the speedometer is showing a high MPH and it is shuttng down the truck.


Does anyone have any comments, suggestions before I have them install a $500 component.

Thanks
Rick

 

Ya, check into getting the Auto meter replacement cluster for 3-350 bucks, maybe less, check ebay and summit. Never heard of something like this before, but if the cluster is the problem, might as well get a better looking and cheaper unit. If not, ebay has alot of used clusters.

 

I am told that this needs to be done by a ford dealership because the odometer has to be set to the correct milage. First off I have no problem with bringing anything to a ford garage I just don't want to drop a $400 part in the truck when it's not needed. Is there anyway to test the part?

 

The mechanic that is working on my truck has been in contact with a ford garage and they both seem to think that the sppedometer is is sending a signal to the computer to shut down half the cylinders. (Throttle speed limiting) When 1/2 the cylinders shut down and you are on the throttle it causes the transmission to shift and the tach pegs out. When you pull your foot off the throttle all the guages die and the truck shuts off. As explained to me the truck should have a throttle speed limit at around 100MPH. When the truck has the problems it is consistently at 47mph. while throttling. He also says it does not do it everytime but when it does it is at 47mph which if doubled is close to the limit the truck will go.

Has anyone had this kind of problem or heard of this kind of problem. Does anyone have any knowledge of the computer logic that shuts an engine down without triggering codes. Is there any more tests I can do or any place that is common for a loose connection. There has to be 100 miles of wire behind the dash. Has anyone had any problems with the Speedometer Head (speedometer cluster assembly).

Any help or ideas will be appreciated.

Thanks
Rick

 

I've got a problem like this right now...I'll keep searching to see if there's been a answer.

On the highway...going around 75mph, when I hit a bump the truck

Shifts to neutral and loses electrical power
Guages die
Radio dies

When going 35-45 and I hit a good bump the

Radio die
Guages die

Power loss I'm not sure yet if the engine is actually dying. I don't think so. I don't have to restart.

I did check a couple ground wires and reset computer by disconnecting battery.

Thanks,

bob

1999 F150
5.4L XLT Ext. Cab

 

I have a 2000 Ford F-150 and about two years ago randomly when I got in it to start up it would not. It would just turn over but would not start. I had it towed the first time and when they got it in the shop there was no problem. It would start right up. After that when it happened I discovered that if I gave it gas and held the gas pedal in a little it would stay cranked but if I let off it would shut back off. I found out that if I did this and drove it then in about less than five minutes it would start idling on it's own without having to hold the gas pedal. After a little research I discovered that it was the Idle Air Control Valve. It cost me $42 and I replaced it myself. Not easy to get to but haven't had a problem since. Hope this helps?

 

Yeah, that was almost EIGHT YEARS ago... it likely won't help....

 

Looking for some help and insight to my 2002 Ford F150 Lariat 2WD 5.4L. Starting back a couple months ago, once a week (at rotary lunch) it would crank light no tomorrow, and not start. I discovered the negative battery cable terminal connector was going bad, and I could pull it off the battery without loosening the nut. Thus I cut the terminal end and rebuilt it with a new terminal connector and it worked great for about a week and a half and then the same issues started again. finally after 5 separate times of not starting, I took it to the shop and $800 latter had a new fuel pump put in it.

last night - about a week after getting it out of the shop, it again would not start, but cranked like no tomorrow...battery is super strong dry cell battery. strong enough it will not accept a jump. waited about 2-3 minutes, and it cranked up with no problem what so ever. And I went on about my merry way.

This morning, driving into work (about 15 miles, 13 of which is 75 mph highway travel) I was in town going 35-40 and the truck completely shut off, dash lit up like a Christmas tree with the battery light, the oil light, and the check engine light (much like when you turn the key to on, without starting the truck) my EDGE programmer module even shut down. Had no power steering and no power brakes. luckily managed to get to the curb and out of traffic, put it in park, and it fired up like nothing was ever wrong with no warning lights of any kind lit up, and the programmer came back on like normal. drove the remaining 1/4 mile to the office, parked and have not gone back to look at it since.

any ideas on where to look? what might be wrong? one of the guys here at the office said it sounded like a computer board was going out, similar to an issue he had with a similar truck a couple years ago, that cost him $1000+ and lasted about 10 months before going out again...

truck has 186xxx miles on it, K&N cold air intake, magnaflow muffler and dual pipes from muffler to bumper, and EDGE CS Power Programmer. Jasper rebuilt transmission was installed about 40k miles ago. All issues have been present within the last 2 months, and no TROUBLE CODES have been present the entire time...

Please help yall!

 

Replace the PCM Power and Fuel Pump relays and cross your fingers.