how do you use a fuel line disconnect tool?
Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
From: Central Maryland
Got a picture of the type you're using? Is it the metal one with two ends or the little color coded plastic ones?
Either way, there should be a slit in them that slides over the line and you want the neck to be pushed into fuel line, not into the filter (the line has to pop off the filter neck).
Here's a quick "sketch"..haha:
The red piece is the removal tool and it slides over the neck of the extension from the filter and pushes into the fuel line to release it's grip.
Just make sure you relieved the pressure in the lines and have the truck at a nice nose-up incline so that when you relieve the pressue in the lines, the fuel can flow back into the tank. Easiest way to do this is just drive the nose up onto a dirt mound or curb, then remove the fuel pump relay, turn the key to make sure no fuel is pumped into the engine, and let it sit with the gas cap removed for about 5 minutes. Then remove the filter
Either way, there should be a slit in them that slides over the line and you want the neck to be pushed into fuel line, not into the filter (the line has to pop off the filter neck).
Here's a quick "sketch"..haha:
The red piece is the removal tool and it slides over the neck of the extension from the filter and pushes into the fuel line to release it's grip.
Just make sure you relieved the pressure in the lines and have the truck at a nice nose-up incline so that when you relieve the pressue in the lines, the fuel can flow back into the tank. Easiest way to do this is just drive the nose up onto a dirt mound or curb, then remove the fuel pump relay, turn the key to make sure no fuel is pumped into the engine, and let it sit with the gas cap removed for about 5 minutes. Then remove the filter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 6,200
Likes: 39
From: Easton, Pa.
The fittings have a spring inside the outer housing that goes over the lip of the inner part.
The tool gets under the spring and relrases the inner lip.
The trick is the pull on the lines after the spring is expanded.
Most people pull against themselves before getting the hang of it.
The inner part of the fittong has 2 O rings and fit very precision because of the hi pressures involved and the spring lock design.
Make sure you get them fully seated back togather and put the safety locks back on the outside accross the fittings.
The tool gets under the spring and relrases the inner lip.
The trick is the pull on the lines after the spring is expanded.
Most people pull against themselves before getting the hang of it.
The inner part of the fittong has 2 O rings and fit very precision because of the hi pressures involved and the spring lock design.
Make sure you get them fully seated back togather and put the safety locks back on the outside accross the fittings.
Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
From: Central Maryland
Originally Posted by Bluegrass
The fittings have a spring inside the outer housing that goes over the lip of the inner part.
The tool gets under the spring and relrases the inner lip.
The trick is the pull on the lines after the spring is expanded.
Most people pull against themselves before getting the hang of it.
The inner part of the fittong has 2 O rings and fit very precision because of the hi pressures involved and the spring lock design.
Make sure you get them fully seated back togather and put the safety locks back on the outside accross the fittings.
The tool gets under the spring and relrases the inner lip.
The trick is the pull on the lines after the spring is expanded.
Most people pull against themselves before getting the hang of it.
The inner part of the fittong has 2 O rings and fit very precision because of the hi pressures involved and the spring lock design.
Make sure you get them fully seated back togather and put the safety locks back on the outside accross the fittings.
^Yup
