#2 Cyl. Misfiring
#2 Cyl. Misfiring
2001 4.6 Has some hesitation going on. If i get on it and hit passing gear it's fine but just cruising at a maintained speed I can definitely feel it surging or hesitating a little. Stopped by AutoZone to see if it would throw a code and they said the #2 cyl is misfiring. Any suggestions as to where I should start on fixing the problem would be greatly appreciated. As always thanks for your feedback.
Originally Posted by cnt487
2001 4.6 Has some hesitation going on. If i get on it and hit passing gear it's fine but just cruising at a maintained speed I can definitely feel it surging or hesitating a little. Stopped by AutoZone to see if it would throw a code and they said the #2 cyl is misfiring. Any suggestions as to where I should start on fixing the problem would be greatly appreciated. As always thanks for your feedback.
Originally Posted by Joe Styles
Change coil and plug then go from there,it may take care of the problem.How many miles on truck.
Originally Posted by cnt487
Thanks Joe, It has 101,000 miles on it. Is it ok to replace just one coil and plug or should they all be replaced at the same time?
Joe
Originally Posted by torkum
Its time to do them all. Do a search on changing plugs and go with the details: cold engine, no antiseze, snug tighten.
There is another point of view on changing all coils at once.
Should you get a defective coil in the 8 new ones, your off on a merry chase the same as what started the whole process.
Only address one fault at a time.
Then consider if you want to change out the rest.
The only way some will accept this is get caught up in the hassle and learn.
Been there.
Should you get a defective coil in the 8 new ones, your off on a merry chase the same as what started the whole process.
Only address one fault at a time.
Then consider if you want to change out the rest.
The only way some will accept this is get caught up in the hassle and learn.
Been there.
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Originally Posted by cnt487
Interesting, alot of what I have read says to change them with the engine warm and antiseeze should be used for the next change..... Am i reading this wrong?
Like I said before just change the plug first and go from there.
JOE
Bluegrass, your concept definitely makes since. Think I'm gonna change the plugs and if the problem still exist then I will change the coil on #2. Sound like the reasonable thing to do??
Thanks for ya'lls feedback too. :-)
Thanks for ya'lls feedback too. :-)
Change with motor cold!!
I myself as well as others on here have had some plugs loosen up a little when using anti-sieze.I just changed mine and 3 were about 1/8 turn loose in 15,000 miles.I would rather have the plugs sieze in place a little than loosen and possibly blow out.Everyone has their own opinion on this though.
Also not sure on the miles of you plugs but now would be a good time to change them.Use Motorcraft Plugs!!!!!!!
I myself as well as others on here have had some plugs loosen up a little when using anti-sieze.I just changed mine and 3 were about 1/8 turn loose in 15,000 miles.I would rather have the plugs sieze in place a little than loosen and possibly blow out.Everyone has their own opinion on this though.
Also not sure on the miles of you plugs but now would be a good time to change them.Use Motorcraft Plugs!!!!!!!
Last edited by Kevin24; Jul 8, 2007 at 05:20 PM.
Originally Posted by cnt487
Bluegrass, your concept definitely makes since. Think I'm gonna change the plugs and if the problem still exist then I will change the coil on #2. Sound like the reasonable thing to do??
Thanks for ya'lls feedback too. :-)
Thanks for ya'lls feedback too. :-)
So far since I 've been referring people to Kevin over @ global for the new COPs - All 8 FOR $96!! One person said they got a bad one - It was detected right away with a MIL and returned for a new one.
I refered at least 25 people from here and 24 completely satisfied . The best thing to do is to replace them all . Or you'll most likely be pulling your hair out later..
That guy over @ global is awesome and should be getting more credit than he does - he has save so many people money and headaches..
Since I have the experience to back this up, a coil can fail a stress test, cause a light load stumble and without setting any code and you cannot force a code from this condition and see what cylinder it is.
Question is how do you find which coil it is without replacing all coils and still have the possibility of a bad coil in the lot taking you on a chase?
Everbody dosn't get coils from Gobal that seem to always be perfect!
Some come from dealers, some from Auto Zone, some from Advanced and some from the 'yards' and other places.
Fix one fault at a time, at least that's progress in the right direction when the owner is trying to work things out.
In the case of a no code situation and plugs don't fix the problem, a stress test is very prudent to do or suffer a long trial and expense period changing parts.
You will do what you will but it's not always the best way.
Even swapping one coil around to other cylinders is not always a good thing to do.
If a code is set there is no good reason to swap around.
No code, does not help either because you still cannot find what cylinder in trouble.
Placing all coils, not finnding the problem, taking to a dealer and he tells you one or more of the coils fail stress, then what?
There are only two parts to the ignition but trying to put logiic to this in the normal way, is often a mistake because of how it works.
Question is how do you find which coil it is without replacing all coils and still have the possibility of a bad coil in the lot taking you on a chase?
Everbody dosn't get coils from Gobal that seem to always be perfect!
Some come from dealers, some from Auto Zone, some from Advanced and some from the 'yards' and other places.
Fix one fault at a time, at least that's progress in the right direction when the owner is trying to work things out.
In the case of a no code situation and plugs don't fix the problem, a stress test is very prudent to do or suffer a long trial and expense period changing parts.
You will do what you will but it's not always the best way.
Even swapping one coil around to other cylinders is not always a good thing to do.
If a code is set there is no good reason to swap around.
No code, does not help either because you still cannot find what cylinder in trouble.
Placing all coils, not finnding the problem, taking to a dealer and he tells you one or more of the coils fail stress, then what?
There are only two parts to the ignition but trying to put logiic to this in the normal way, is often a mistake because of how it works.
what needs to be stressed to you is the fact that there has been issues of plug blow outs. which can be time consuming and costly repairs.
also, the fact its aluminum heads. you don't want the engine hot when you put the plugs in (aside from burning your hands). its rather a fine line, too tight and you ruin threads, too loose and POP goes the weasel. which also ruins threads lol.
also, the fact its aluminum heads. you don't want the engine hot when you put the plugs in (aside from burning your hands). its rather a fine line, too tight and you ruin threads, too loose and POP goes the weasel. which also ruins threads lol.
I've been caught up in the hassle and learned this -
Well, I guess I'm surprised with all the knowledge out there why this doesn't get explained.
You can safely test all your COPs under a load without going to the dealership or back probing. This comes in handy if you don't have a check engine light on and the trucks missing.
First , simply put, a coils job is to convert low voltage signals from the PCM to high voltage pulses to your spark-plugs.
So you find a way to monitor pulses during a normal drive cycle. COP's fail under a variety of loads when weak during said cycle's.
A simple probe clamped to the side of a coil that uses a blinking light to reflect coil pulse works for me.
String a wire thru the firewall , wire that to a test bulb and attach the other end to the probe wires.
Clamp the probe to the coil - go for a drive and have someone with you to monitor the pulses via test bulb.
Do this eight times if you have to or at least until you find a weak blinker (coil that isn't producing).
A probe like this will work -

I don't post this as much because when you start to have problems with COP's - It's easier, cheaper, less involved just to swap them out with a new set since Stores like Global came along..
I may not have the experience as a few others on this board have here , but I studied this one for awhile - a couple years anyway and know the ignition system is a very important key to performance and economy. The best tune up for these high tech COP ignition systems is fresh set. Replacing them all keeps the integrity intact - that factors in as well....
Bluegrass is prolly shaking his head lol - But hey , whatever works right
Well, I guess I'm surprised with all the knowledge out there why this doesn't get explained.
You can safely test all your COPs under a load without going to the dealership or back probing. This comes in handy if you don't have a check engine light on and the trucks missing.
First , simply put, a coils job is to convert low voltage signals from the PCM to high voltage pulses to your spark-plugs.
So you find a way to monitor pulses during a normal drive cycle. COP's fail under a variety of loads when weak during said cycle's.
A simple probe clamped to the side of a coil that uses a blinking light to reflect coil pulse works for me.
String a wire thru the firewall , wire that to a test bulb and attach the other end to the probe wires.
Clamp the probe to the coil - go for a drive and have someone with you to monitor the pulses via test bulb.
Do this eight times if you have to or at least until you find a weak blinker (coil that isn't producing).
A probe like this will work -

I don't post this as much because when you start to have problems with COP's - It's easier, cheaper, less involved just to swap them out with a new set since Stores like Global came along..
I may not have the experience as a few others on this board have here , but I studied this one for awhile - a couple years anyway and know the ignition system is a very important key to performance and economy. The best tune up for these high tech COP ignition systems is fresh set. Replacing them all keeps the integrity intact - that factors in as well....
Bluegrass is prolly shaking his head lol - But hey , whatever works right
Last edited by jbrew; Jul 9, 2007 at 04:56 AM.


