Over the course of the 5 years, I had experienced 4 different LM service departments. All in all, only 1 of them was satisfactory to me, but I only went there once and they were in another state, so I don't even know I can even rate them. So of the other 3 dealers, I had one threaten to call the cops on me, another quote me $1600 to do a shock/spring replacement (that was, per the book, only $800, local mechanic did it for $400), and a third that stopped servicing LM vehicles altogether while I was waiting for them to call me that they got a part in for warranty work (I ended up having to go to another dealer to have that warranty work done after the warranty expired and had to pay $200 for this inconvenience, per FCS).

All in all, all FCS can do is log your complaint, but only once have I ever got a satisfactory resolution to a problem I had with my car and that was when I personally got a hold of the regional service guy.

So yeah I'm jaded, one experience would mean "find another dealer"... and I did, twice, and experienced the same BS in all three places.

 

That was a SUGGESTION "JACKASS"..... If he were to take it to a friggin dealership, they could stress test the coils, and pinpoint if that is the issue or not... I have the opertunity to deal with "ignorant, uninformed, arrogant, know more than me" customers daily, so, it's not just a "one-way" street as far as that is concerened...

Just keep throwing parts at it, sooner or later you will stumble accross the concern.... Good luck....

 

let me put the words in bold for you that i was trying to emphasize for you since you missed the point i was trying to get across to you guys. now maybe you can understand it without feeling i was attacking you, i'm just crude.

for quint, ill correct my late night spelling so he feel's better. didnt know i had to spell correctly like it mattered here...

i wasn't saying what you guys had to say was invalid, i was just saying some people cant or wont visit dealerships for their own personal reasons. perhaps instead of belittling the guy to make yourself happy, just give some insight?

oh and what was wrong with telling him the way he was testing his coil was inadequate? nothing, just the insult in the sentence before.

 

Find your PCV at the rear of your engine and *closely* inspect the attached 'L' shaped hose / boot for cracking and or brittleness and or other problems that would cause a vacuum leak. In fact, I'd recommend removing it so you can see it up close for better inspection.

 

There was nothing insulting in what I said. If I called him a dumbass, an idiot, and to just give up and go to the dealer, that'd be pretty insulting and I'd deserve an *** kicking for that.

What I said was factual - he's thrown a lot of parts at this thing and it's not fixed, checking the resistance is not an accurate way of checking the coils, and that we need to know what codes he had specifically to lead him in the direction of a fix.

I'm brutally honest and don't know how to pull a punch in any and all matters. I've got no qualms about giving someone a no chit assessment. If that upsets you, well, that's life.

And just to keep this thing on topic, if the OP is experiencing multiple random misfires, I'd inspect the wiring harness near the accumulator bracket on the passenger's side of the firewall for any damage or chafing.

 

Quintin, I'm with you.
I can be pretty honest but it usually brings the big teeth out of the wood work and provokes a debates of chest puffing I get tired of having to often.
So I moderate it best i can until I have to defend, then the gloves come off.
Do this some time; corelate where these questions and prediciments come from and see the trend. It says a lot.
There are parts of the country that I laugh about. Those people seem to be born under a rock, live under a rock and die under a rock. If you get the idea.
When they come to any board for help and it shows like a 1000 watt light bulb.
I know this is not going to be a popular reply but; oh well.

 

AMEN!!!

 

I can hear the banjos playing now!

 

Thats a low blow! Hahah. To be honest yeah I have no idea wtf keeps going wrong, Im used to cars that are 1970 and back, you know no smog computers etc, the easy stuff....

Now I did it my way that I would do something on my 65 stang, Ive replaced the most logical part first and go in sync with what the code readers are telling me. It has gotten to 25 miles right now with no check engine light but still a roughness.

And the only thing I can honestly think of at this point is the EGR Valve is about done, Otherwise Idk maybe I should take my 429SCJ and just throw it in there Haha

 

EGR's are less apt to fail than they are to become excessively dirty.

 

So I got a code back on after 38 miles, Po308? Miss fire on cylinder 8, Im wondering if the computer in the truck itself isnt shorting out?

 

A missfire code is only a small sum total of a fault with a cylinder.
Suppose a valve is not sealing well and makes the cylinder pressure lower than is expected? It could still be called a missfire since the PCM cannot tell the difference.
So a plug or a coil or a boot, a wire is not always the problem.
It could even be an injector, poor ring seal; anything that results in a cylinder not makeing the power expected.
The monitors measures the crank rotation time and compaires it to the other cylinders and to a table of expected times limits before making a logic decision to set a code after it sees this condition for a certain amount of time.
The table of expected times is updateable so overall engine wear can be included till failure can't be tolerated any longer and the engine begins to show poor driveability from age and mechanical failures.
This is much like your older carbed engine that becomes hard to start when the valve seat sealing gets bad etc.
Has this helped to understand it better, on these engines?
Arn't computer great?
I'm sorry about how this all comes out but red is still red and black is still black etc., no matter how it's looked at.

 

Have you replaced the coil on that cylinder? What about the plug? The first thing you need to do is see if there's any spark on #8. Pull the coil out and stick an old spark plug in it. Start the engine and see what the spark looks like - it should be a bright blue.

If you've got good spark, the next thing you need to do is check injector pulse. Use a long screwdriver and stick it on the injector while the engine's running. Put your ear to the other end and see if it's clicking or pulsing.

If you've got injector pulse, then you need to start looking at base engine problems. Check compression and leakdown, etc...it's all a process of elimination. Start with the easy stuff and go from there.

 

Or, just take it to a DEALER, and have them run a relative compression test, injector/leakdown test, and have them STRESS TEST the damn coils. ALL of which are done with the IDS/WDS scan tools...

Or, you can keep wasting your time, and keep throwing parts at it.....

But, hey, i could be wrong.....